Smooooth said:Good Catch..............
I'm still working on the little things for this years Winter Project.
I did solder both ends of the ground wire upgrade for the ignitor.
What I have also done is to find most all of the bullet connectors and cleaned them. Slow process, but found a couple of nasty ones.
Stephen
Hazy said:I think I spoke too soon... 30's most of the week.
secarob said:Hazy said:I think I spoke too soon... 30's most of the week.
:'( Yes you did AND snow on Tuesday ENOUGH OF THIS WINTER!!
squishman said:What does the term "hot starting" mean. I saw it mentioned a couple times in this thread.
Thanks Steve for another great mod!
Paul, welcome to the Forum. Yes, the ground wire is a good place to start. There could be other reasons but this is cheap and easy. Enjoy the bike and the people here. TomPaul said:Poor/insufficient grounding on a motorcycle? Say it ain't so! Seriously, my K100 had similar problems. I upgraded the critical ground paths on that bike and it solved a number of niggling problems. I got my C10 last year and have not had time to do too many mods yet, but this one is now at the top of my list. Probably this Friday since I have the day off. My bike has the same cold starting/idling problems as others have described here, so I'm looking forward to curing that.
This mod is for the ground wire from the Ignitor Box, not the JBox. The Ignitor is the black box that is mounted on the fender, under the seat.Carlson said:I finally decided to do this mod and have a question. While checking the Jbox connectors with multi-tester I noticed that it has 2 ground wires, not just BLK-Y but also solid BLK, which is right above the first one. So, the questions for electics gurus - why is there 2 ground wires, and should I ignore solid black one?
Outback Jon said:This mod is for the ground wire from the Ignitor Box, not the JBox. The Ignitor is the black box that is mounted on the fender, under the seat.Carlson said:I finally decided to do this mod and have a question. While checking the Jbox connectors with multi-tester I noticed that it has 2 ground wires, not just BLK-Y but also solid BLK, which is right above the first one. So, the questions for electics gurus - why is there 2 ground wires, and should I ignore solid black one?
Carlson said:Outback Jon said:This mod is for the ground wire from the Ignitor Box, not the JBox. The Ignitor is the black box that is mounted on the fender, under the seat.Carlson said:I finally decided to do this mod and have a question. While checking the Jbox connectors with multi-tester I noticed that it has 2 ground wires, not just BLK-Y but also solid BLK, which is right above the first one. So, the questions for electics gurus - why is there 2 ground wires, and should I ignore solid black one?
I thought Ignitor and JBox is 2 names for the same thing. Anyway, I was talking about that black box under the seat.
Mcfly said:Your J-Box holds your fuses and relays. It is located behind the left side panel. The ignitor box is the 'brain' of your
ignition system.
Just the black with yellow stripe. Splice in a wire and attach it to a good ground. Not the yellow wire with the black stripe or any other wire.Carlson said:Mcfly said:Your J-Box holds your fuses and relays. It is located behind the left side panel. The ignitor box is the 'brain' of your
ignition system.
Thanks for clarifying that. :great:
The question, however still stands, should anything be done with the second ground wire (solid black one).
FastRocket said:Looking forward to this mod . Gonna do it this Sunday . Will be soldering . Do not like those crimpy thingys one bit . They corrode like buggers .
Also using 3M Automobile Electrical tape for resealing .
Just brilliant by the sounds of things .
Thanks Steve :great: :great: :great:
Mcfly said:FastRocket said:Looking forward to this mod . Gonna do it this Sunday . Will be soldering . Do not like those crimpy thingys one bit . They corrode like buggers .
Also using 3M Automobile Electrical tape for resealing .
Just brilliant by the sounds of things .
Thanks Steve :great: :great: :great:
IF I ever use crimp connectors (and I do sometimes), I always put some heat shrink tube over the connector.
This works well, but I agree there's no substitute for solder. Crimps are big and bulky in comparison too.
Mcfly said:FastRocket said:Looking forward to this mod . Gonna do it this Sunday . Will be soldering . Do not like those crimpy thingys one bit . They corrode like buggers .
Also using 3M Automobile Electrical tape for resealing .
Just brilliant by the sounds of things .
Thanks Steve :great: :great: :great:
Yup ,,,big heat shrink user myself
IF I ever use crimp connectors (and I do sometimes), I always put some heat shrink tube over the connector.
This works well, but I agree there's no substitute for solder. Crimps are big and bulky in comparison too.
stevedap said:Mcfly said:FastRocket said:Looking forward to this mod . Gonna do it this Sunday . Will be soldering . Do not like those crimpy thingys one bit . They corrode like buggers .
Also using 3M Automobile Electrical tape for resealing .
Just brilliant by the sounds of things .
Thanks Steve :great: :great: :great:
IF I ever use crimp connectors (and I do sometimes), I always put some heat shrink tube over the connector.
This works well, but I agree there's no substitute for solder. Crimps are big and bulky in comparison too.
I've read that a properly executed crimp joint will be mechanically and electrically more reliable than a soldered joint - especially in a high vibration environment. I've tried both methods and personally I prefer crimping to soldering. The key is using a decent ratchet type crimping tool and the right type of crimp connectors.
RodWpg said:I crimped and soldered
Steve in Sunny Fla said:yeah, that's how mine looks too. :beerchug: Steve
Mcfly said:Very nice FastRocket, but now you have no proof you did it! :nananana:
I'm not much better though, I've got about 2 miles of black wire cover running
throughout my bike... I like tidy too.
Pbfoot said:Update. On the ride home this morning I had the opportunity to get on it a little. All I can say is,Wow! Throttle response is like right now. The mid range to top end pull is much stronger. Daddy likes!
Pbfoot said:Update. On the ride home this morning I had the opportunity to get on it a little. All I can say is,Wow! Throttle response is like right now. The mid range to top end pull is much stronger. Daddy likes!
I was advised to get the .9kg based on my 200lbs. I decided to give the 1kg a try as like a firmer ride. Was a little stiff at first but the cartridge fork emulators helped alot. Perfect matchfir the C14 shock. 1.1kg will be fine. 1.2 to stiffWantabeach said:Pbfoot said:Update. On the ride home this morning I had the opportunity to get on it a little. All I can say is,Wow! Throttle response is like right now. The mid range to top end pull is much stronger. Daddy likes!
How do you like the sonic 1.0 springs? I’m 225 and ordered the 1.1. According to the website i could have gone up to the 1.2; specially since i want to tour with extra weight.
Thanks
Paul.
Thanks for the reference nosmo, I'm thinking the 2-minute mod would be a good project for winter. Do you have experience with SISF's exhaust cam sprocket?If you think SISF's "free power" mod is good, you should try his 2-minute mod for the carbs, and (too late now) his "7th gear" mod. you really can't imagine what a difference those make. I just wish to heck I'd gotten a set of his torque cams when he was still making them.