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Looky what I gots!

Unless it's a new OEM ignition switch, you gots it in the wrong section!  But I can fix that right now.  ;)
 
Bergmen said:
I could say but it would be cheating since Steve already told me.

I'll recuse myself...

Dan
Click to expand...

You're recused. Me too. If I didn't know it would be pretty tough though. ???
 
jathkajoe said:
Looks like a nicely done tubular bar adapter that bolts onto the stock bar mounts.  When does production begin?
Click to expand...

I will second that vote, that sure isn't stock  :-\  and would really make the choices for the C10 great
 
Damn you guys are dumb!  Its a ignition key shroud key shroud protector!  This will prevent your original plastic ignition key shroud from getting all "brassed" up from the violent swinging motion of your janitorial sized key rings when riding.  Geesh........  :-[

Amateurs!  :nananana:
 
Sparkie said:
Steve in Sunny Fla said:
what is it? Steve
Click to expand...

I'll bet there's some rubber dampeners in there for the C-10 vibes. Also a much more upright position for those that like. ;)  Mark
Click to expand...

  A Winner in every crowd! :) you got it - fully isolated bar mounts. These are my proto's but expect to see them on other bikes as soon as I can iron out production issues.

  so waddya think?  Steve
 
Sorry Steve, but maybe you should not be posting this. I would hate to have someone accusing you of making them and posting in this thread solely to soak members for profit! Sorry, I couldn't resist.  :))

By the way, great idea.  :)
 
Cap'n Bob said:
Sorry Steve, but maybe you should not be posting this. I would hate to have someone accusing you of making them and posting in this thread solely to soak members for profit! Sorry, I couldn't resist.  :))

By the way, great idea.  :)
Click to expand...

Dang, Bob. That's funny!

Eddie
 
Oh sweet jesus!  Maybe I will be able to feel my hands again!  Will I be able to use the stock cables and hoses?
 
SmokinRZ said:
  Will I be able to use the stock cables and hoses?
Click to expand...

  that's the nice part about the tube bar adapter setups, you can control lift / pullback by the bars you choose. that sais, if you don't want to change any cables / hoses, just select some bars that are positioned similarly to the stock clipons. Steve
 
Steve in Sunny Fla said:
Sparkie said:
Steve in Sunny Fla said:
what is it? Steve
Click to expand...

I'll bet there's some rubber dampeners in there for the C-10 vibes. Also a much more upright position for those that like. ;)  Mark
Click to expand...

  A Winner in every crowd! :) you got it - fully isolated bar mounts. These are my proto's but expect to see them on other bikes as soon as I can iron out production issues.

  so waddya think?  Steve
Click to expand...

Can you expand on that a minute? How'd you get isolated?
 
How do you actually get and vibration damping though and still have a solid feel to the handlebars?  I would hate to have a soft feel to the bars.
 
  Surprisingly, the bars feel the same as when they were solid mounted when making steering input. It's counter-intuitive, but think about it, when you're riding and turning, it really doesn't take alot of effort and force. This whole system is captured in such a way that it cannot "fail" and have the bars somehow disconnect through the isolators. Ever see an automotive engine just "fall out" of a car going down the road?  :rotflmao: Steve
 
Steve,

I take it these are like a ZRX top triple, with a stud going through rubber cones top and bottom?
 
GFinCA said:
Steve,

I take it these are like a ZRX top triple, with a stud going through rubber cones top and bottom?
Click to expand...

No cones, a dedicated encapsulated bushing.

  I'm glad someone (last 2 posts) posted up that these have been in service for awhile, lest someone  acuses me of building a deathtrap with no regard for others safety. I am fully confident in the design, I'm the first one riding on it so I must be confident... Steve
 
Hey, my 1973 Triumph Trident had rubber mounted bars. I think a bunch of the other Brit bikes did too.
 
Looks great Steve.  I'm betting ya got a winner there that'll be REEEAAALL popular with the C-10 set.  I did a set with the cones last year and while it was pretty good, it DID have just a spot of fishy feel to it.  My current setup is very similar to your mount in APPEARANCE but is not dampened at all.  Kudos to ya on another MUST HAVE item!  Are you using a liquid urethane to bush them with or a heavier viscocity urethane?  I assume you ARE using urethane for its hard/tough-ness.  Curious minds and all that. Again, congrats on a winner.
 
They were on my 1994 Suzuki RF900.  The only time I noticed them was when I pushed the bike around in the garage.
 
I've had quite a few bikes wiht the similar rubber setup.  About the only ones that DIDN'T have it, was dirt bikes, and my Connie.
 
The Triumph setup is very similar, here is a pic of the clamp:
Handlebar%20P%20Clamps%20NOS%2001.jpg


When the rubber is good, there is very little play in the handlebars. Even as the rubber gets old, and you notice the handlebars move forward and back, it still rides fine. And, even if the rubber somehow disappeared completely, there is no chance of the handlebars falling off the triple.
 
From the picture it looks like this will require bar risers.  Both of my connnies came with bar riser and I sold both sets  :-[
 
WillyP said:
You probably don't need bar risers as tubular bars come in all different heights.
Click to expand...
You'll need the risers to fit the plate I believe.  THat's how mine was with the previous forks.  Otherwise things get in the way, like ignition switches and covers, n stuff.
 
Yes, there needs to be some sort of riser. I have a couple ideas, I would like to offer the plate without risers for those who already have them, and then offer the plate with risers for those who don't have them. Steve
 
Great idea, how much will you be selling them for?

This sounds SAVIOR great! -As I have Murp's 1.5" risers but my wrist (s) - mostly right, still gets pretty bad  :mad:!

I am really hoping these or something like the C14 P-Wedges can HOOK me up.  Please advise as wrist pain MUST me a common occurance???

 
TexasTar said:
This sounds SAVIOR great! -As I have Murp's 1.5" risers but my wrist (s) - mostly right, still gets pretty bad  :mad:!

I am really hoping these or something like the C14 P-Wedges can HOOK me up.  Please advise as wrist pain MUST me a common occurance???
Click to expand...

Howdy - Still hoping for some advice on how to lessen my right wrist discomfort??  Steve - Are these still being developed?
THANKS
 
I did a 1300 mile test ride last weekend. Most comfortable I've ever been. I have a call into the fellow handling machining, waiting on a call back to find out status of another proto in the works - steve
 
Steve in Sunny Fla said:
I did a 1300 mile test ride last weekend. Most comfortable I've ever been. I have a call into the fellow handling machining, waiting on a call back to find out status of another proto in the works - steve
Click to expand...

man, i gotta work on my butt.  I did almost 600 and i was sore (chaffed butt).  Looking for a solution.  ~new thread~
 
Greg said:
Steve in Sunny Fla said:
I did a 1300 mile test ride last weekend. Most comfortable I've ever been. I have a call into the fellow handling machining, waiting on a call back to find out status of another proto in the works - steve
Click to expand...

man, i gotta work on my butt.  I did almost 600 and i was sore (chaffed butt).  Looking for a solution.  ~new thread~
Click to expand...
^-^ JACK

My solution for chafing was to install the wooden beads.  Not the best for cool and plumb out for cold riding, but for when it's warm I think they beat my sheepskin all to pieces. But when it's cold, the sheepskin is better.
 
V1RU5 said:
looks like an anti Buzz. if so, would it work with risers and how much?
Click to expand...

(Dont wanna take words outa Steve's mouth or say incorrect things) But I believe he has stated it will only work with risers and not to sure on price yet.  Everyone is eagerly awaiting.
 
It requires risers, so I'm planning to offer the plate with or without risers. That way those who have risers don't have to buy something they don't need. Still nothing on pricing, the guy who wants to do production had become very busy, so I'm waiting on him. Steve
 
Steve in Sunny Fla said:
It requires risers, so I'm planning to offer the plate with or without risers. That way those who have risers don't have to buy something they don't need. Still nothing on pricing, the guy who wants to do production had become very busy, so I'm waiting on him. Steve
Click to expand...
Nothing on price, cool I will take ten at that price.  ;D
 
I have 2" Risers and have a bad Buzz prob. I have the anti-buzz kit from Murphs, and helped alittle, I would LOVE to try this out! do you need another beta tester?
 
Just an fyi if it wuld be useful I can make special bends in bars to custom tailor them. I don't know what the market would be but that is my trade. I am an iron  >:Dworker.
 
Ok, first post here as a brand new member and already pulling up an old post.

Just wanted to check on the status of this project Steve.  I am about 5' 7".  I bought my C10 having not ridden one...found a very nice one on Craigslist and jumped on it, before jumping on it.  Assumed that since this bike was around so long, I could adapt it to fit me VERY easily.  Guess I was wrong.

Previous owner had a Russell custom seat fitted to him.  It's extremely nice, but also VERY tall.  He was 6' 1", and also indicated on his order form for the seat that he would not mind sitting up higher to get him higher off the already too high foot pegs.  Great for him, for me...not so much.

Love the bike!  But am seriously tippy-toeing it.  And worse, the bars are so far forward that they hurt my hands something awful after about 10 minutes.  I need your solution.  If you have stalled on it, I can probably fabricate the base bracketry, but need to know where to source the isolated bar mounts.  Hoping you got this sorted out and are offering them now.

Ron
 
I'll bet there's some rubber dampeners in there for the C-10 vibes. Also a much more upright position for those that like. ;)  Mark
[/quote]

How much and where do I send my money?

:)

RJS
 
ronazon said:
Assumed that since this bike was around so long, I could adapt it to fit me VERY easily.  Guess I was wrong.
Click to expand...

No, you were not wrong. Russel, or any other custom saddle make, could make a lowered seat as easily as a raised on, maybe even easier. And while Steve's idea to include vibration isolation is great, there are other options to change your bars to tubular, or to change the position of the stock bars.

There are also lowering links for the rear, and lowering the front is even easier. There are several options to lower the foot-pegs, and dozens of different manufacturers of windshields.

Having said that, I will concede, there is no getting around the fact that it is a big bike. At 6'1" I am happy with the ergonomics. I can certainly see where someone 5'7" might have some issues.
 
Thanks for the response WillyP!

I am going to call Russell to see what I need to do for the seat.  I cannot find any other bar options that are actually available.  Please feel free to link to some options if you know of a vendor.

The lowering link is available only in 1.5 inch lower and is $200.  I have an offer out for a used one...otherwise will have to fork out the $200 I guess.

Will have to see what the pegs feel like after getting the seat lowered.

Any tips on a newbie to the C10?

WillyP said:
No, you were not wrong. Russel, or any other custom saddle make, could make a lowered seat as easily as a raised on, maybe even easier. And while Steve's idea to include vibration isolation is great, there are other options to change your bars to tubular, or to change the position of the stock bars.

There are also lowering links for the rear, and lowering the front is even easier. There are several options to lower the foot-pegs, and dozens of different manufacturers of windshields.

Having said that, I will concede, there is no getting around the fact that it is a big bike. At 6'1" I am happy with the ergonomics. I can certainly see where someone 5'7" might have some issues.
Click to expand...
 
ronazon said:
Any tips on a newbie to the C10?
Click to expand...

Yes, first check your petcock and be sure it does in fact shut off fuel flow.

If there is any hesitation in accelerating, particularly a dead spot in the powerband around 4k, clean the carbs and install SISF's jet kit. Or send them off to him and have him do it.

Reinforce your fairing head stay bracket before it breaks. If it breaks, it could do a number on the fairing, as the upper main fairing will drop, putting all the weight on the mid fairings.

Be careful not to over-tighten the drain plugs for the oil, but if you and they strip you can heli-coil the pan without removing it. And, BTW when you change your oil, there are two drain plugs. Also Bergman Engineering offers a kit to convert the oil filter to spin on oil filters.

Murph used to carry a handle bar adapter but I don't see it now... sorry, I guess you'll have to make you own or wait for Steve.
 
WillyP said:
ronazon said:
Any tips on a newbie to the C10?
Click to expand...

Reinforce your fairing head stay bracket before it breaks. If it breaks, it could do a number on the fairing, as the upper main fairing will drop, putting all the weight on the mid fairings.
Click to expand...

Hi.

How is the reinforcement accomplished?

Thanks.


RJS
 
ronazon said:
Ok, first post here as a brand new member and already pulling up an old post.

Just wanted to check on the status of this project Steve.  I am about 5' 7".  I bought my C10 having not ridden one...found a very nice one on Craigslist and jumped on it, before jumping on it.  Assumed that since this bike was around so long, I could adapt it to fit me VERY easily.  Guess I was wrong.

Previous owner had a Russell custom seat fitted to him.  It's extremely nice, but also VERY tall.  He was 6' 1", and also indicated on his order form for the seat that he would not mind sitting up higher to get him higher off the already too high foot pegs.  Great for him, for me...not so much.

Love the bike!  But am seriously tippy-toeing it.  And worse, the bars are so far forward that they hurt my hands something awful after about 10 minutes.  I need your solution.  If you have stalled on it, I can probably fabricate the base bracketry, but need to know where to source the isolated bar mounts.  Hoping you got this sorted out and are offering them now.

Ron
Click to expand...
Hey Ron, welcome.

A couple thoughts on your post; as Willy has already posted there are several good solutions for those of us not blessed with long legs.  ;D  I'll add one option to that- when I had my OEM seat re-covered last year at a local automotive upholstery shop I had them shave off a 1/2" of the foam so that my seat beads would not be raising me even higher.  On the reach to the bars, does your bike have risers installed?  If not, you might try those as a first, less expensive option; they will raise the bars up a good inch-plus as well as bringing them back just a tad due to the angle of the mounting.  Murph sells those if you're interested.  After that, I'd look into a Heli-bars setup- it's much pricier but a lot of guys have installed them and love their various adjustability options.

As far as other tips, I'll throw in a few more suggestions; most have been discussed thoroughly on this board and the ZG/GTR board, so do some searching/reading and then make your own decision:
- tires and tire pressures- so hugely important to this bike's handling.  If you've still got Dunlops on her, start looking into other options; the Avon choices are great and will transform her behavior (and your confidence.)  The manual recommends 36/41 psi, but most of us go higher to 38/42 or 40/44- experiment with this and then check them regularly!
- fork brace- another huge improvement for front end stability, especially at speed in curves on uneven or varied pavement.
- foot pegs- if this hasn't already been done, grind off the fold-up stoppers so they REALLY fold back- this will save their aluminum brackets from breaking if you do have a drop.
- in-line fuel filter- there is a tendency for the OEM petcock filter to allow mininscule particles through that may then lodge in the #1 carb float needle seat, thereby allowing gas through continuously.  This is the first half of the recipe for the dreaded 'hydrolock' condition that you will read about that causes bent rods.  The second half is the vacuum petcock not shutting off, that Willy mentioned- if those two things happen in conjunction, the cylinder will fill with gas and when you turn her over to start you will bend a rod and that's it for the engine.  So, an ounce of prevention here is worth the many pounds (or dollars) of cure.  Again, many discussions of this remedy and how to implement it, but it works for many of us and gives us peace of mind.
- better headlight bulb- learn how to replace this (easy) so you know how if it happens on the road- and then carry a spare.  I like Murph's Philips Vision Plus bulbs, or the Silverlights- get a pair.  Much whiter, brighter light- works for both your visibility, but I've found that the real benefit is that other drivers seem to see it better.

There's so much else you can do this bike that it's like a blank canvas- a really powerful, fun to ride, great to tour with, canvas.  Good luck with it, and consider joining COG if you stick with her- great benefits, and you contribute to the cause that helps us all to enjoy this great bike.
 
krumgrinder said:
ronazon said:
Ok, first post here as a brand new member and already pulling up an old post.

Just wanted to check on the status of this project Steve.  I am about 5' 7".  I bought my C10 having not ridden one...found a very nice one on Craigslist and jumped on it, before jumping on it.  Assumed that since this bike was around so long, I could adapt it to fit me VERY easily.  Guess I was wrong.

Previous owner had a Russell custom seat fitted to him.  It's extremely nice, but also VERY tall.  He was 6' 1", and also indicated on his order form for the seat that he would not mind sitting up higher to get him higher off the already too high foot pegs.  Great for him, for me...not so much.

Love the bike!  But am seriously tippy-toeing it.  And worse, the bars are so far forward that they hurt my hands something awful after about 10 minutes.  I need your solution.  If you have stalled on it, I can probably fabricate the base bracketry, but need to know where to source the isolated bar mounts.  Hoping you got this sorted out and are offering them now.

Ron
Click to expand...
Hey Ron, welcome.

A couple thoughts on your post; as Willy has already posted there are several good solutions for those of us not blessed with long legs.  ;D  I'll add one option to that- when I had my OEM seat re-covered last year at a local automotive upholstery shop I had them shave off a 1/2" of the foam so that my seat beads would not be raising me even higher.  On the reach to the bars, does your bike have risers installed?  If not, you might try those as a first, less expensive option; they will raise the bars up a good inch-plus as well as bringing them back just a tad due to the angle of the mounting.  Murph sells those if you're interested.  After that, I'd look into a Heli-bars setup- it's much pricier but a lot of guys have installed them and love their various adjustability options.

As far as other tips, I'll throw in a few more suggestions; most have been discussed thoroughly on this board and the ZG/GTR board, so do some searching/reading and then make your own decision:
- tires and tire pressures- so hugely important to this bike's handling.  If you've still got Dunlops on her, start looking into other options; the Avon choices are great and will transform her behavior (and your confidence.)  The manual recommends 36/41 psi, but most of us go higher to 38/42 or 40/44- experiment with this and then check them regularly!
- fork brace- another huge improvement for front end stability, especially at speed in curves on uneven or varied pavement.
- foot pegs- if this hasn't already been done, grind off the fold-up stoppers so they REALLY fold back- this will save their aluminum brackets from breaking if you do have a drop.
- in-line fuel filter- there is a tendency for the OEM petcock filter to allow mininscule particles through that may then lodge in the #1 carb float needle seat, thereby allowing gas through continuously.  This is the first half of the recipe for the dreaded 'hydrolock' condition that you will read about that causes bent rods.  The second half is the vacuum petcock not shutting off, that Willy mentioned- if those two things happen in conjunction, the cylinder will fill with gas and when you turn her over to start you will bend a rod and that's it for the engine.  So, an ounce of prevention here is worth the many pounds (or dollars) of cure.  Again, many discussions of this remedy and how to implement it, but it works for many of us and gives us peace of mind.
- better headlight bulb- learn how to replace this (easy) so you know how if it happens on the road- and then carry a spare.  I like Murph's Philips Vision Plus bulbs, or the Silverlights- get a pair.  Much whiter, brighter light- works for both your visibility, but I've found that the real benefit is that other drivers seem to see it better.

There's so much else you can do this bike that it's like a blank canvas- a really powerful, fun to ride, great to tour with, canvas.  Good luck with it, and consider joining COG if you stick with her- great benefits, and you contribute to the cause that helps us all to enjoy this great bike.
Click to expand...

Thanks krum!

I had my OEM seat for my VTX redone by Allen at meancitycycles.com.  He does a memory foam mod that had a 10 lb density foam at the bottom and a 5 lb density foam at the top.  He calls it the double decker.  I told him my height and weight and he reshaped and lowered the seat and it is just awesome!  Can't say enough good things about him and his service too.  Great guy!  Am thinking a stock seat with this mod may do the trick.  Am wondering about a driver’s backrest though.  Surprises me I can’t seem to find a good aftermarket source for those.  Am I missing something?  Ultimate Seats does not make a seat for the C10.  Do guys not use a drivers backrest when doing serious miles?

My bike does have risers…1 1/4” I think.  But I think most of my problem is related to this seat.  Just noticed on the Russell order form, the guy even asked for an additional 1.5” or more in height.  Another guy wrote me a PM and said that a stock seat would fit me much better and I could do a trade with cash to make that happen.  Probably what I am going to do.

Having ridden the VTX, I really like the laid back cruiser riding position and want to go more toward that on the C10.  I realize the C10 is a sport tourer…but am just saying I want to go in that direction.  Steve’s idea really seams to be what I need.  I like the idea of isolating the vibration in the handlebars and bringing them back toward me at the same time.  I have seen a few posts mention relative location being some where inline with the gas inlet on the top of the tank.  That sounds pretty good to me.  No way I am going to spend several hundred dollars doing it though with Heli-bars or the like.  I will probably try to fab something up myself and post back of course…that is, provided Steve does not have his to offer.

The bike came with Avons, Storm II in the front I believe and Azaro in back.  Back is almost done though so been looking at options there.  Not real happy with what I am learning about the tire situation.  Again, 20 years this bike was in production and tire choices are extremely limited and demand compromises I would have never expected.  Already aware of tire pressure settings from VTX experience.  Same deal…higher wears much better.

Bike also came with the fork brace, lucky me!  The guy really loved this bike.  Hope I can make it comfortable for me.

Good tip on the footpeg stops.  For the fuel filter…is this all you need to do to head off hydrolock, or are SISF’s overflow tubes needed too?  See, I have been reading already… ;-)  Good tips on the headlight too.  Is this an H4 bulb?  I have that in my VTX and put an HID in there…man you wanna know good light…HID is where it’s at!

FYI, I already signed up for a 1 year membership.  Not sure what you call me now…a COG’er I guess…  But yeah, I really am enjoying getting to know the forum here and learning about the bike.  As was with my VTX…am sure I am just getting started.

My other ride:
DSCF7763.jpg


And thanks for the welcome!  Very appreciated!

 
Welcome.
And I would have that Russell reworked to fit you.  That's the best thing seatwise I believe.  Hydrolock protection... you could say the overflow tubes are the cheapest, surest protection from it happening.    Always having a properly functioning petcock is paramount IMHO.  But things happen, and then the overflow tubes will come into play.  I've owned several Connies and did buy one that has the overflow tubes.  I pray they never have to work... but I will probably pull those carbs before long anyway.
 
OK, now that we know a little more about you...  >:D  To address your questions:

ronazon said:
I had my OEM seat for my VTX redone by Allen at meancitycycles.com.  He does a memory foam mod that had a 10 lb density foam at the bottom and a 5 lb density foam at the top.  He calls it the double decker.  I told him my height and weight and he reshaped and lowered the seat and it is just awesome!  Can't say enough good things about him and his service too.  Great guy!  Am thinking a stock seat with this mod may do the trick.  Am wondering about a driver’s backrest though.  Surprises me I can’t seem to find a good aftermarket source for those.  Am I missing something?  Ultimate Seats does not make a seat for the C10.  Do guys not use a drivers backrest when doing serious miles?
Click to expand...

There's no real OEM solution for a driver's backrest; you'd have to go to a custom seat for this, but they are available- Think Corbin, Russell, Sargent, etc.  The backrest, however, is available as an OEM accessory.  Skip the additional accessory cargo rack they sell- not rated for much capacity and there are other better solutions.  I bought mine used from a guy parting out a bike, but I believe you can get them from Ayers, Bandit or other supply houses.  Which brings us to top cases- if you like those, they can also double as a passenger backrest.  You do one or the other on this bike.

ronazon said:
Having ridden the VTX, I really like the laid back cruiser riding position and want to go more toward that on the C10.  I realize the C10 is a sport tourer…but am just saying I want to go in that direction.  Steve’s idea really seams to be what I need.  I like the idea of isolating the vibration in the handlebars and bringing them back toward me at the same time.  I have seen a few posts mention relative location being some where inline with the gas inlet on the top of the tank.  That sounds pretty good to me.  No way I am going to spend several hundred dollars doing it though with Heli-bars or the like.  I will probably try to fab something up myself and post back of course…that is, provided Steve does not have his to offer.
Click to expand...

You might still look into the Heli-Bars, if after you get the seat installed the reach still seems uncomfortable; the guys that have them rave about them, and given that you are looking for a more laid-back posture they may still be the ticket.

ronazon said:
The bike came with Avons, Storm II in the front I believe and Azaro in back.  Back is almost done though so been looking at options there.  Not real happy with what I am learning about the tire situation.  Again, 20 years this bike was in production and tire choices are extremely limited and demand compromises I would have never expected.  Already aware of tire pressure settings from VTX experience.  Same deal…higher wears much better.
Click to expand...

Yep, the 16" rear wheel is a limiter.  But, there is good news there as well- alot of guys have fit Kaw Mean Streak rear wheels to the Connie, with a little modification as I remember.  Or, you can ship your wheel out to have the rim welded up to receive a 17" tire- there are lots of threads on this, I think Kosman Engineering is the company that does this frequently for us?  Aside from that, I just fitted a bias ply Avon Venom to my rear, after years of Azaros- and they are a good option for higher mileage, less aggressive riding I am finding.

ronazon said:
Good tip on the footpeg stops.  For the fuel filter…is this all you need to do to head off hydrolock, or are SISF’s overflow tubes needed too?  See, I have been reading already… ;-)  Good tips on the headlight too.  Is this an H4 bulb?  I have that in my VTX and put an HID in there…man you wanna know good light…HID is where it’s at!
Click to expand...

Steve's (SISF) overflow tubes are a great option if you have the money and resolve the problem of the failing petcock, but you could still jam a particle in the float needle seat, causing running trouble on the road, as happened to me one cold, late winter day a few years ago.  Not a problem easily dealt with on the road.  I went a different route to resolve the petcock issue, installing a electromagnetic solenoid valve in my fuel line above my carb rack that opens with ignition, then closes when the bike is turned off.  It was a bunch of work to install, but I enjoyed it; the overflow tubes are certainly the easier option.
On the headlight, yes, a bunch of us have gone the HID route too, myself included- but honestly, the bulbs I mentioned work pretty well too and are a lot less fuss to install.  Didn't want to blow you away right out of the gate with too much...  :eek: ;D

Great looking VTX, btw- awesome paint job!

 
I rode proto #2 to RWTW last weekend. I have to say it really exceeded my expectations! It seemed to be a pretty popular farkle, several folks offered to pre-pay me for a production run, which I may entertain. I have a meeting with the machinist scheduled for saturday. I think this is finally gonna happen - Stay tuned, and don't ask how much - yet. steve
 
Steve in Sunny Fla said:
Stay tuned, and don't ask how much - yet. steve
Click to expand...
Hey Steve, how much for yer rubber mounted tubular handlebar adapters?  :nananana: :nananana: :rotflmao:

Seriously, put me down as interested.
 
Boomer said:
Steve in Sunny Fla said:
Stay tuned, and don't ask how much - yet. steve
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Hey Steve, how much for yer rubber mounted tubular handlebar adapters?  :nananana: :nananana: :rotflmao:

Seriously, put me down as interested.
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I just knew that was going to happen  ;)
 
Steve, I may have missed this earlier in the thread, but how much vibration would one expect with this setup relative to the OEM bars (with GenMar risers)? I had tubular bars on with the Storz adaptor years ago and could never get the vibes down to a tolerable level......

thanks, and color me interested..

John
 
  1) yes, it'll work with heli's, it;ll raise the bars a little, about 1" or so.

    2) how much vibration? I believe almost zero. Certainly nothing of any consequence; it depends on how much I compress the rubber bushings, so one of the parts I'm going to talk to the machinist about is cutting sleeves so that the center bolt cannot be overly tightened thereby overly compressing the rubber bushings. 

  Kinda happily surprised that there's this much interest in a product for older bikes - I was wondering how well it would be received -Steve
 
I'm not surprised Steve.  Anything to reduce vibes on these things is a GOOD thing.

Question for you.  I'm getting ready to do a ZRX replacement on the front.  The risers are mounted with rubber cones top and bottom.  I'm expecting that to help with vibration, but any experience with that setup?

Thanks!
 
It'll work perfectly. connies should have had that setup from Kaw. My first efforts were to mod the top triple ala zrx, but the casting doesn't lend itself to such nonsense. HTH, Steve
 
thanks.  I was hoping it would.  I'll find out in a few days.  I only have the ignition switch holes to tap and it'll be ready to install.
 
Steve, can you give any sense of when you think this might be ready to sell and what the cost will be? 
 
I met with the actual machinist last saturday, all final dimensions are set. I'm waiting for final pricing. he said he need to finish some work before he gets to it. Hopefully saturdays meeting has him properly understanding that I want to go ahead forward asap. I will make the final determination pending his prices, though I have heard "hints" from him that would seem favorable. therefore no timeline or pricing, as I stated a couple posts ago, but it is receiving proper attention... Steve
 
Steve in Sunny Fla said:
I met with the actual machinist last saturday, all final dimensions are set. I'm waiting for final pricing. he said he need to finish some work before he gets to it. Hopefully saturdays meeting has him properly understanding that I want to go ahead forward asap. I will make the final determination pending his prices, though I have heard "hints" from him that would seem favorable. therefore no timeline or pricing, as I stated a couple posts ago, but it is receiving proper attention... Steve
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Awesome!  Done yet?  How bout now?    ;D
 
You guys gonna pester Stevie like that, you'd better have your PayPal accounts primed, ready, and warmed up for when he says go.  :D
 
Will it be it be like it appears in the first photo, looks like welded steel, or would you make it from a billet of aluminum?
 
After 5 years of experimentation I finally get my handlebars perfect, and Steve comes along and invents
a new mouse trap. Congrats Steve, can't wait to see the finished product.
 
the final is aluminum. the first proto was steel - not because it's what I specified, it was part of the initial "issues" I've had to work past - My #2 proto is aluminum, so that's a done deal - 6061 and 7075. Steve
 
So true though.  If Steve's behind it, it's both worth having and reasonably priced, whatever the heck it is!  Good on ya' Steve!
 
Chip, couldn't agree more.

I have his 2MM, torque cams and 7th gear mod. All working together very nicely.  :motonoises:
 
Way to go Steve!  FWIW, my '76 and '77 Yammie XS650's had very similar systems and I never felt "disconnected" from the front wheel during spirited cornering.  Can't wait to see the final item, sounds like a "must have".  Mike in TX
 
Mike  -  that's a good point, and one that is realized when you're actually riding, not just sitting on the bike pushing the bars. I was at the RWTW rally a couple weeks ago, riding with Brian "2fast" Snowberg. 2fast is a good name for him, too, so you can guess how the riding was. I never noticed anything different about the handling or steering input throughout all the twisty riding. The only thing I did notice was a reduction of shock on bumps and bad pavement. No downside at all. Steve
 
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