I’ve been searching and reading on this. Is there general advice? I know lowering links will affect side stand and center stand. Any advice on brand etc? I know you can get an adjustable side stand, but what are the center stand options? Thanks for your help! I am looking for advice on the lowering links, the good, the bad, the ugly.
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Lowering links.
- Thread starter mattgarr57
- Start date
I can't help with your answer as I've never used lowering links, lucky to have long legs. Hit Ted (connierider) up though, pretty sure he's tried several different ones & I think even made some.
Just Cliff said:
Thank you!
I originally had the Muzzy Lowering Links.
Actual drop {measured axle to frame} was about1 1/2"-1 3/4" 1 1/4".
Was too much drop for me.
After I tried them, I opted to buy some ZX-14 links and modify them to the drop I wanted.
I now have 3/4" drop and happy with that.
NOTE: I don't recommends the build your own as it was not EZ to get right.
1 Company makes Lowering Links that drop similar to the Muzzy's.
Probably your best option. if1 1/2-1 3/4 1 1/4" will work for you.
T-Rex Racing:
https://www.t-rex-racing.com/Lowering-Links-Concours-14-s/710.htm
I suspect there are other Companies that make Links the same way, but don't know the names..
Some companies sell Links with multiple amount of drop. {have several holes}
Don't like them as they start at about 2" drop and go lower.
We've had multiple reports on the Soupy adjustable.
Some say they work with the center stand, some say no.
I think they will work ok.
Do a search on this Forum to find out more.
On the side stand, no need to buy shorter.
Just heat the lower section red hot and bend it outwards slightly.
1 EZ method is to heat and lean the bike and allow it to bend. Just be careful and don't over bend.
If you go too far, re heat and bend it back.
On the center stand, almost impossible to get a 14 on the CS without shortening it.
I can send you photo's of where and how much to cut/reweld.
Ride safe, Ted
Actual drop {measured axle to frame} was about
Was too much drop for me.
After I tried them, I opted to buy some ZX-14 links and modify them to the drop I wanted.
I now have 3/4" drop and happy with that.
NOTE: I don't recommends the build your own as it was not EZ to get right.
1 Company makes Lowering Links that drop similar to the Muzzy's.
Probably your best option. if
T-Rex Racing:
https://www.t-rex-racing.com/Lowering-Links-Concours-14-s/710.htm
I suspect there are other Companies that make Links the same way, but don't know the names..
Some companies sell Links with multiple amount of drop. {have several holes}
Don't like them as they start at about 2" drop and go lower.
We've had multiple reports on the Soupy adjustable.
Some say they work with the center stand, some say no.
I think they will work ok.
Do a search on this Forum to find out more.
On the side stand, no need to buy shorter.
Just heat the lower section red hot and bend it outwards slightly.
1 EZ method is to heat and lean the bike and allow it to bend. Just be careful and don't over bend.
If you go too far, re heat and bend it back.
On the center stand, almost impossible to get a 14 on the CS without shortening it.
I can send you photo's of where and how much to cut/reweld.
Ride safe, Ted
connie_rider said:
Thanks! I would appreciate photos. mattgarr57@gmail.com
connie_rider said:
Also, do you lower the front the same amount as the rear?
On mine, I lowered and set the sag 3/4" on both ends.
If you lower more at the rear, there is not clearance {fork tubes to hitting the bars} to lower the front an equal amount.
I made an error in my first note.
I think the Muzzy's lowered the bike 1 1/4".
For accuracy; That 1 1/4" is measured {before and after the Lowering Links are installed} from the axle to the bike frame
with the bike on the center stand.
The difference in the 2 measurement's tells you how much you actually changed the drop.
Due to sag, a ground to seat measurement will not be the same.
Ride safe, Ted
If you lower more at the rear, there is not clearance {fork tubes to hitting the bars} to lower the front an equal amount.
I made an error in my first note.
I think the Muzzy's lowered the bike 1 1/4".
For accuracy; That 1 1/4" is measured {before and after the Lowering Links are installed} from the axle to the bike frame
with the bike on the center stand.
The difference in the 2 measurement's tells you how much you actually changed the drop.
Due to sag, a ground to seat measurement will not be the same.
Ride safe, Ted
connie_rider said:
Thanks Ted! At 3/4” drop, did you have any issues dragging the nose of the lower plastics when going over bumps, etc?
Even with the Muzzy's I've never had a clearance problem.
But, with the Muzzy's I did drag foot pegs and the center stand *push down/perch at a Track Day.
** Not sure what the correct name is?
I installed shorter pegs, decreased my amount of lowering {with my home made Link}, and raised the Center stand slightly,,,, and all was better. :great:
NOTE: When the side stand push down/perch drags at 100++ in a sweeper, it scares the s___ out of me!
Immediate :c002: and then,, :86: 8)
Ride safe, Ted
PS: Just saw this on the other Forum..
http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?topic=24617.0;topicseen
But, with the Muzzy's I did drag foot pegs and the center stand *push down/perch at a Track Day.
** Not sure what the correct name is?
I installed shorter pegs, decreased my amount of lowering {with my home made Link}, and raised the Center stand slightly,,,, and all was better. :great:
NOTE: When the side stand push down/perch drags at 100++ in a sweeper, it scares the s___ out of me!
Immediate :c002: and then,, :86: 8)
Ride safe, Ted
PS: Just saw this on the other Forum..
http://www.zggtr.org/index.php?topic=24617.0;topicseen
connie_rider said:
Thanks Ted!
I know this is an old tread, but I recently found what I think is a alternative/very inexpensive {about $20) set of Lowering links for a C-14.
I bought some, but have not installed them on my bike. {as I already have a custom set that I made}
NOTE: I did measurements' and feel they will work perfectly.
Their appear to be a direct bolt on and should lower the bike the same amount as a set of Muzzy's or T-Rex Links.
approx 1 1/4"..
I have them if anyone is interested in my test.. {??}
If it works out, I'll show others how to get more of them.
Ride safe, Ted
I bought some, but have not installed them on my bike. {as I already have a custom set that I made}
NOTE: I did measurements' and feel they will work perfectly.
Their appear to be a direct bolt on and should lower the bike the same amount as a set of Muzzy's or T-Rex Links.
approx 1 1/4"..
I have them if anyone is interested in my test.. {??}
If it works out, I'll show others how to get more of them.
Ride safe, Ted
Is anyone going to lower their bike over the winter?
I bought a set of Links (from a ZX-600/$20) that I thought would lower the bike approx. the same amount as Muzzy or T-Rex Links.
(I spent the $$ so I could compare the dimensions to my Links)
I'm convinced; that these will work. (but I already have Links on my bike and haven't done a fit test)
............................: The 600 Links should be a direct bolt on....
Anyway; (if anyone is interested) I just received an offer to buy the another set of the Links for $12 from Ebay.
Sharing that offer with others in case someone wants to give it a try...
1995-1997 Kawasaki Ninja ZX6E ZX-6E rear shock links linkage Oem | eBay
Ride safe, Ted
I bought a set of Links (from a ZX-600/$20) that I thought would lower the bike approx. the same amount as Muzzy or T-Rex Links.
(I spent the $$ so I could compare the dimensions to my Links)
I'm convinced; that these will work. (but I already have Links on my bike and haven't done a fit test)
............................: The 600 Links should be a direct bolt on....
Anyway; (if anyone is interested) I just received an offer to buy the another set of the Links for $12 from Ebay.
Sharing that offer with others in case someone wants to give it a try...
1995-1997 Kawasaki Ninja ZX6E ZX-6E rear shock links linkage Oem | eBay
Ride safe, Ted
Last edited:
Great.
When you receive them, please contact me and we can confirm dimensions.
Ride safe, Ted
When you receive them, please contact me and we can confirm dimensions.
Ride safe, Ted
Tboner, did you ever do the install?
Ride safe, Ted
Ride safe, Ted
If anyone wants to lower their C-14, try this.
Install ZX-600E OEM Links.
NOTE: Some have tried a ZX-1400 Link. They will lower the bike far more. (approx. 2 1/2")
I have tried the ZX-600 Links on mine, as mine is already lowered.
I bought a set and checked the dimension's/offsets.
Everything looks perfect. "Definitely strong enough".
The difference in length {from a stock ZG-1400 Link} should lower a C-14 approx. 1 1/2"..
Cost; $10.00
Just need someone to give it a try and let us know.
Ride safe, Ted
Install ZX-600E OEM Links.
NOTE: Some have tried a ZX-1400 Link. They will lower the bike far more. (approx. 2 1/2")
I have tried the ZX-600 Links on mine, as mine is already lowered.
I bought a set and checked the dimension's/offsets.
Everything looks perfect. "Definitely strong enough".
The difference in length {from a stock ZG-1400 Link} should lower a C-14 approx. 1 1/2"..
Cost; $10.00
Just need someone to give it a try and let us know.
93-02 KAWASAKI NINJA ZX6 ZX600E Rear Shock Suspension Links OEM | eBay
Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for 93-02 KAWASAKI NINJA ZX6 ZX600E Rear Shock Suspension Links OEM at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!
www.ebay.com
Ride safe, Ted
Last edited:
Ted, I'll throw a little cold water on this. Thanks for trying to look for creative ways in sourcing alternative links at a good price to lower the C14 and sharing it with all of us. I tried the muzzy's just for curiosity even though I don't have trouble reaching the ground. Eventually sold them here on the forum. Anyway, I am questioning if the zx600 links are strong enough. I don't know at all, but it's an assumption to believe they are.
I make a living doing structural analysis on complex machine parts and facilities for a defense contractor. I wish I could just look at stuff and say they'll 'strong enough' , LOL, I wouldn't have to work that hard. But different bike weights, suspension geometry, and materials would all affect the life of these links. This stuff is made with factor's of safety, so there's a good chance it would work fine, although it's fatigue life might be shorter and short enough to not last long enough to consider it to have infinite life compared to the service life of the rest of the bike. When co-workers tell me something won't fail, I tell them, yeah not the first time or the 10th time. But maybe the 100th, or 1000th time. Just a word of caution from someone who does structures work all day long and has for many years.
Thanks again for looking for creative ways to source stuff like this
I make a living doing structural analysis on complex machine parts and facilities for a defense contractor. I wish I could just look at stuff and say they'll 'strong enough' , LOL, I wouldn't have to work that hard. But different bike weights, suspension geometry, and materials would all affect the life of these links. This stuff is made with factor's of safety, so there's a good chance it would work fine, although it's fatigue life might be shorter and short enough to not last long enough to consider it to have infinite life compared to the service life of the rest of the bike. When co-workers tell me something won't fail, I tell them, yeah not the first time or the 10th time. But maybe the 100th, or 1000th time. Just a word of caution from someone who does structures work all day long and has for many years.
Thanks again for looking for creative ways to source stuff like this
Ted, I did buy the ZX 600 "Ninja" rear links off Ebay and install six months ago I sent you a message with the measured drop about 1 inch install easy with bottle jack lowered the front 3/4 inch and happy with the outcome $15 modification workking well for me the confidence this 30 inch inseam rider has now manuvering the bike is a great inprovement
OOPs.. I guess that I've slept since then?
Just looked at your old note and the 600 Links dropped the bike 1 1/4".
Ride safe, Ted
Thanx Pete. Would love to talk to you about structural analysis.
We'll be in Clinton Arkansas for a ride at the end of the Moth.
Any chance you'll be there with us?
I understand your concerns, but I'm not very concerned about the 600 Links.
Same material/same thicknesses, etc as the ZG- Links. Just a bit longer (approx. 1/2").
(That extra length is what lowers the bike 1 1/4")
Aftermarket Links are built from Aluminum, are longer and lower the bike more.
So, I feel these are safe...
These appear to be forged steel. Unsure of that, but they are a very tough material.
I used an end mill to cut/modify (and then weld) a set of ZX-14 Links for my bike.
{Same design as the ZG/and ZX-600 Links, but a lot longer}
Destroyed multiple end mills cutting them. These are tough!
NOTE: I am concerned about my modified links,. (I built these as I wanted only 3/4" drop)
I think I'm ok as they were jigged, welded, and normalized by a certified welder.
Since installation, I've taken them off the bike twice for inspection. {Like I sed, would love to talk with you}.
Ride safe, Ted
Hi Ted, I won't be able to make the ride in Arkansas. Having a son late in life has cramped any long trip riding. Maybe as he gets older and I can cut back to part time. If your ever riding a little closer to middle TN I'd enjoy meeting up with you. I've got to find a seat that works for more than a couple hours too. Still on the stocker.
Anyway, I feel better about them being steel. I didn't remember if the stock links were steel or aluminum. If stresses are below 45-50% of the ultimate tensile strength (UTS - stress when it breaks in a test machine), steel is considered to have an infinite life of load cycles. And if they were designed by Kaw with a factor of safety of at least 2 (which is very likely) for fatigue life so that the stress is <25% of the UTS on the ZX600, chances are it's easily under 50% on the C14. Like I said suspension geometry, shock, and weight could alter the load on them. Aluminum is never considered to have infinite life but they can be designed such that it will take 500,000 miles of riding to approach their fatigue life. Hopefully that's what Muzzy did. I remember that was aluminum and thicker.
Welding will alter the strength too. The question is did the process the welder used get the same strength back as OEM. There are so many different steels that could be used too with a wide range of strengths. Lot's of variables, LOL. Chances are they are a very similar material on all these bikes and a factor of safety was used on any original design. So they are probably OK. Just lots of unknowns. Probably a good tough ductile steel also that would take lots of cycles for a crack to propagate to critical. There are some aerospace stainless steels that have very high strength and quite ductile too. I started to wonder if the links are stainless since they don't seem to rust, but I haven't taken a good look at mine lately. Like I said lots of variables.
I'd take a good look at them every 10k to 20k miles.
Pete
Anyway, I feel better about them being steel. I didn't remember if the stock links were steel or aluminum. If stresses are below 45-50% of the ultimate tensile strength (UTS - stress when it breaks in a test machine), steel is considered to have an infinite life of load cycles. And if they were designed by Kaw with a factor of safety of at least 2 (which is very likely) for fatigue life so that the stress is <25% of the UTS on the ZX600, chances are it's easily under 50% on the C14. Like I said suspension geometry, shock, and weight could alter the load on them. Aluminum is never considered to have infinite life but they can be designed such that it will take 500,000 miles of riding to approach their fatigue life. Hopefully that's what Muzzy did. I remember that was aluminum and thicker.
Welding will alter the strength too. The question is did the process the welder used get the same strength back as OEM. There are so many different steels that could be used too with a wide range of strengths. Lot's of variables, LOL. Chances are they are a very similar material on all these bikes and a factor of safety was used on any original design. So they are probably OK. Just lots of unknowns. Probably a good tough ductile steel also that would take lots of cycles for a crack to propagate to critical. There are some aerospace stainless steels that have very high strength and quite ductile too. I started to wonder if the links are stainless since they don't seem to rust, but I haven't taken a good look at mine lately. Like I said lots of variables.
I'd take a good look at them every 10k to 20k miles.
Pete
Thanx Pete.
I built my own Links {from ZX-1400 Links} because I didn't like the amount of drop that I got from aftermarket Links.
I built them with a target of only 3/4" drop.
Worked out fine, but a lot of work.
I'll check the welds periodically.
I think we now agree on strength. The ZX-600 Links should be fine for others.
They should give a 1 1/2" - 2" drop. {approx. same as aftermarket}
Ride safe, Ted
I built my own Links {from ZX-1400 Links} because I didn't like the amount of drop that I got from aftermarket Links.
I built them with a target of only 3/4" drop.
Worked out fine, but a lot of work.
I'll check the welds periodically.
I think we now agree on strength. The ZX-600 Links should be fine for others.
They should give a 1 1/2" - 2" drop. {approx. same as aftermarket}
Ride safe, Ted
Last edited:
Ted, thank you much for this information. I installed the ZX600 links on my 2010 C14. With 30” inseans I can just flat-foot. This is a great improvement for me. I took her out on twisty Ark highway 7 and the handling seems great. I am proceeding with caution.
Many thanks,
Wayne
Many thanks,
Wayne
Great news. I'm glad that it helped someone out.
For $10 -$15, it's a heck of a deal.
{Did you measure the actual drop?}
Please keep us posted.
Ride safe, Ted
For $10 -$15, it's a heck of a deal.
{Did you measure the actual drop?}
Please keep us posted.
Ride safe, Ted
Ted,
It is an odd way to measure but the top of the rear reflector was 21” and dropped to 19.5” off the shop floor. I expect at least 1 1/4” at the seat. So far I love the change in every way. I have not dropped the front and I know I am giving up a little steering quickness but the seat feels better to me at this angle. The Connie still feels very agile to me. Time will tell if I want to lower the front.
Thanks,
Wayne
I lowered my front, because lowering the front will help keep the suspension geometry closer to what it was originally.
You measured the same way that most do. You measured (what I call) the "resultant" drop.
ie; By measuring seat to floor you included changes in geometry. (Geometry has changed/spring sag has changed)
Actual drop; (done with bike on center stand/rear wheel off the ground)
Measure from axle to a point on the frame (directly above the axle) "before" installing new link.
Measure from axle to (same) point on the frame (directly above the axle) "after" installing new link.
The difference in the 2 measurement's is the "actual" drop.
There is nothing wrong with the method you used. It just isn't as comparable bike to bike.
Ride safe, Ted
You measured the same way that most do. You measured (what I call) the "resultant" drop.
ie; By measuring seat to floor you included changes in geometry. (Geometry has changed/spring sag has changed)
Actual drop; (done with bike on center stand/rear wheel off the ground)
Measure from axle to a point on the frame (directly above the axle) "before" installing new link.
Measure from axle to (same) point on the frame (directly above the axle) "after" installing new link.
The difference in the 2 measurement's is the "actual" drop.
There is nothing wrong with the method you used. It just isn't as comparable bike to bike.
Ride safe, Ted
Hey guys.....asking for a friend: Does the OEM spring need to be changed or modified when installing lowering links??
Any other suspension changes needed other than lowering the forks in the triple?
Ted: How's clearance with the dual exhaust after lowering? I'm a little concerned about retention of the Center stand on mine (it's a muzzy's extended version) since it sounds like shortening the OEM Center stand is needed to accommodate the shorter stance with the links.
THanks for the input.
gr
Any other suspension changes needed other than lowering the forks in the triple?
Ted: How's clearance with the dual exhaust after lowering? I'm a little concerned about retention of the Center stand on mine (it's a muzzy's extended version) since it sounds like shortening the OEM Center stand is needed to accommodate the shorter stance with the links.
THanks for the input.
gr
The issue I first had Muzzy mufflers/mids were the Mids were dragging in fast/tight corners.
The mufflers themselves were never a problem.
NOTE: I had a ZX-14 header. Not a Muzzy Header.
I now have Area P Mid pipes/mufflers. No more problems.
I looked at the Muzzy (dual muffler) headers and I don't think the Mids will be a problem on them as their tucked nearer the frame than mine were.
On the Lowering, do NOT lower too much.
ie; Do NOT use ZX-14 OEM Links. (Would lower the bike over 2")
Frugal method; Buy a set of (95-97) ZX-600E OEM links (approx. $20). (They lower about 1 1/2" and work fine).
King Kong's strength is needed to get the bike on the stand if you lower the bike and don't shorten the Center stand.
I have pictures of where/how to shorten the Center stand.
Foot of the Center stand will also (probably) need to be moved out with the Muzzy duals.
I cranked up the pre-load on mine and the springs are ok. Stronger springs would probably be an improvement, but not mandatory.
Later model C-14's (I think after 2020) have stiffer springs so his might already be stronger. (year?)
Ride safe, Ted
The mufflers themselves were never a problem.
NOTE: I had a ZX-14 header. Not a Muzzy Header.
I now have Area P Mid pipes/mufflers. No more problems.
I looked at the Muzzy (dual muffler) headers and I don't think the Mids will be a problem on them as their tucked nearer the frame than mine were.
On the Lowering, do NOT lower too much.
ie; Do NOT use ZX-14 OEM Links. (Would lower the bike over 2")
Frugal method; Buy a set of (95-97) ZX-600E OEM links (approx. $20). (They lower about 1 1/2" and work fine).
95 KAWASAKI NINJA ZX6 ZX 600 E OEM REAR DOGBONE SUSPENSION LINK LINKAGE MOUNT | eBay
Condition:This shock dogbone is in good used working condition. This is a genuine OEM part. PART REMOVED FROM A 1995. Check with your dealer if you have other years. Ninja ZX6 ZX600E. _gsrx_vers_526 (GS 6.6.6 (526)).
www.ebay.com
King Kong's strength is needed to get the bike on the stand if you lower the bike and don't shorten the Center stand.
I have pictures of where/how to shorten the Center stand.
Foot of the Center stand will also (probably) need to be moved out with the Muzzy duals.
I cranked up the pre-load on mine and the springs are ok. Stronger springs would probably be an improvement, but not mandatory.
Later model C-14's (I think after 2020) have stiffer springs so his might already be stronger. (year?)
Ride safe, Ted
Last edited:
Hi Ted,The issue I first had Muzzy mufflers/mids were the Mids were dragging in fast/tight corners.
The mufflers themselves were never a problem.
NOTE: I had a ZX-14 header. Not a Muzzy Header.
I now have Area P Mid pipes/mufflers. No more problems.
I looked at the Muzzy (dual muffler) headers and I don't think the Mids will be a problem on them as their tucked nearer the frame than mine were.
On the Lowering, do NOT lower too much.
ie; Do NOT use ZX-14 OEM Links. (Would lower the bike over 2")
Frugal method; Buy a set of (95-97) ZX-600E OEM links (approx. $20). (They lower about 1 1/2" and work fine).
95 KAWASAKI NINJA ZX6 ZX 600 E OEM REAR DOGBONE SUSPENSION LINK LINKAGE MOUNT | eBay
Condition:This shock dogbone is in good used working condition. This is a genuine OEM part. PART REMOVED FROM A 1995. Check with your dealer if you have other years. Ninja ZX6 ZX600E. _gsrx_vers_526 (GS 6.6.6 (526)).www.ebay.com
King Kong's strength is needed to get the bike on the stand if you lower the bike and don't shorten the Center stand.
I have pictures of where/how to shorten the Center stand.
Foot of the Center stand will also (probably) need to be moved out with the Muzzy duals.
I cranked up the pre-load on mine and the springs are ok. Stronger springs would probably be an improvement, but not mandatory.
Later model C-14's (I think after 2020) have stiffer springs so his might already be stronger. (year?)
Ride safe, Ted
I am interested in lowering my 2008 connie as I can't seem to stop dropping the thing at stop lights. I have a 29 inch inseam and usually stop on the left leg down right on the brake but still have an issue. I am thinking of trying the ZX600 links but will need to shorten the Centre stand. If you would be kind enough to send me pics on where and how much to shorten them (welding is okay).
thanks!
Greg
PM sent.
NOTE: You'll also need to heat the side stand (near the foot) and bend it out slightly.
Ride safe, Ted
NOTE: You'll also need to heat the side stand (near the foot) and bend it out slightly.
Ride safe, Ted
Last edited:
Thanks! right, bend the side stand out, got it.
Greg
Greg
Trying to do a step by step from memory.
My memory sux, so modification'smay "will" be needed.
Photos' will be posted soon. (I hope)
1) Remove Center-Stand.
Here is a used CS. (Just in case I goofed, I bought one and modded it when I did my bike)
2) Buy a piece of metric All-thread that fits tightly inside of the bushings on the CS.
,,,,,Also buy 4 nuts/8 washers. {Not sure of size. I think it wuz 12 or 14 mm}
IMPORTANT: All thread and nuts will be used to keep alignment of bushings for re-installation of CS on the bike.
3) Install all-thread and adjust nuts for exact spacing. (green tape)
4) Use a paint marker to draw lines on front and sides of CS. (to be used for alignment) (Yellow lines)
5) Just below the weld, place a piece of 1 wide tape on each CS leg. (Orange tape)
6) Remove the Spring attachment, and CS stop. (yellow tape)
7) Move them down 1" and weld them in place.
8) Cut the CS on both sides of the 1" wide tape. ie; remove 1" of CS legs. (orange tape)
NOTE: You may want to remove more or less. (Dependent on how much you lower the bike, and the size of your rear tire)
I removed 1" from my CS.
NOTE: On my bike I lowered the bike rear about 3/4", front about 1", and I have a 50 series tire.
My rear tire is now pretty close to the ground when it's on the CS (approx 3/4"), but it's "extemely" EZ to get on the CS.
9) Align the 3 pieces and weld in place.
a) Because of the angle, there will be a "step" at the point the legs meet the upper.
,,,, Fill in the opening to prevent water from accumulating.
b) You might want to do a strong tack weld and install CS on bike for height/alignment test before final weld.
*****I wuz fearless (**) and just welded it. (** I was modding a spare CS) 😜
10) Paint. (err black paint)
11) Reassemble.
12) Test it.
13) Go fer a ride.
,,,,, IMPORTANT: Blame someone else if it doesn't work.
I hope I covered all the steps.
Ride safe, Ted
My memory sux, so modification's
Photos' will be posted soon. (I hope)
1) Remove Center-Stand.
Here is a used CS. (Just in case I goofed, I bought one and modded it when I did my bike)
08 09 Kawasaki Concours ZG1400 Center Kick Stand Kickstand | eBay
Part is off a Good Running 2008 Kawasaki Concours ZG1400. Kawasaki Crusiers. Kawasaki MX / ATV. This is simply the residential freight fee that the. your order to and hold the freight for you to pick up.
www.ebay.com
,,,,,Also buy 4 nuts/8 washers. {Not sure of size. I think it wuz 12 or 14 mm}
IMPORTANT: All thread and nuts will be used to keep alignment of bushings for re-installation of CS on the bike.
3) Install all-thread and adjust nuts for exact spacing. (green tape)
4) Use a paint marker to draw lines on front and sides of CS. (to be used for alignment) (Yellow lines)
5) Just below the weld, place a piece of 1 wide tape on each CS leg. (Orange tape)
6) Remove the Spring attachment, and CS stop. (yellow tape)
7) Move them down 1" and weld them in place.
8) Cut the CS on both sides of the 1" wide tape. ie; remove 1" of CS legs. (orange tape)
NOTE: You may want to remove more or less. (Dependent on how much you lower the bike, and the size of your rear tire)
I removed 1" from my CS.
NOTE: On my bike I lowered the bike rear about 3/4", front about 1", and I have a 50 series tire.
My rear tire is now pretty close to the ground when it's on the CS (approx 3/4"), but it's "extemely" EZ to get on the CS.
9) Align the 3 pieces and weld in place.
a) Because of the angle, there will be a "step" at the point the legs meet the upper.
,,,, Fill in the opening to prevent water from accumulating.
b) You might want to do a strong tack weld and install CS on bike for height/alignment test before final weld.
*****I wuz fearless (**) and just welded it. (** I was modding a spare CS) 😜
10) Paint. (err black paint)
11) Reassemble.
12) Test it.
13) Go fer a ride.
,,,,, IMPORTANT: Blame someone else if it doesn't work.
I hope I covered all the steps.
Ride safe, Ted
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Success!! 😝
Hey, thanks for all the info Ted! I need some help with the height ofmy Connie as I have a 28 in inseam! at 5'110" I wonder how tall I would be if I had regular legs!
thanks again... awesome info.
Greg
thanks again... awesome info.
Greg
I wonder how tall I would be if I had regular legs!
That's EZ. You'd be "too" tall. 🥴
Another option is removing the seat cover, then remove some padding and narrow it at the front.
Shops in your area can prolly be found to do the mod.
My "old" buddy (Harry Martin) removed almost all of the Padding.
I think Harry is 5' - 2".
The mod solved the problem for him.
Hello Harry, are you out there?
If so, post a photo.
Ride safe, Ted
That's EZ. You'd be "too" tall. 🥴
Another option is removing the seat cover, then remove some padding and narrow it at the front.
Shops in your area can prolly be found to do the mod.
My "old" buddy (Harry Martin) removed almost all of the Padding.
I think Harry is 5' - 2".
The mod solved the problem for him.
Hello Harry, are you out there?
If so, post a photo.
Ride safe, Ted
Thanks for the tip Ted but I have a skinny butt lol... I really need to stay off the front brake. on my big twins you could kill the front brake no sweat.. but I am starting to get why Kawasaki started putting linked brakes on Connies in 2010! I wonder if one could upgrade the brakes to linked ones?
Greg
Greg
I really need to stay off the front brake.
OMGawd! Arghhh!!!!!😲
I REALLY hope your joking. (??)
I'm not scolding, or making snide remarks, but ya just scared me, Buddy.
I understand that your used to a Harley/Cruiser.
But, that's absolutely the worst thing you can think or do.
Trust me on this.,, Your first impulse when stopping must be; squeeze the front brake.
To ensure that;
#1) STOP thinking like a Harley Rider!
#2) Train yourself to use the front brake, use it only, and use it MORE!!
#3) Train yourself to NOT use the rear brake.
,,, In an emergency you'll use the back brake. (Without thinking about it)
Very quickly you'll get used to it, you'll become comfortable while doing so, and you'll be a better/safer rider.
Ride safe, Ted
OMGawd! Arghhh!!!!!
😲 I REALLY hope your joking. (??)
I'm not scolding, or making snide remarks, but ya just scared me, Buddy.
I understand that your used to a Harley/Cruiser.
But, that's absolutely the worst thing you can think or do.
Trust me on this.,, Your first impulse when stopping must be; squeeze the front brake.
To ensure that;
#1) STOP thinking like a Harley Rider!
#2) Train yourself to use the front brake, use it only, and use it MORE!!
#3) Train yourself to NOT use the rear brake.
,,, In an emergency you'll use the back brake. (Without thinking about it)
Very quickly you'll get used to it, you'll become comfortable while doing so, and you'll be a better/safer rider.
Ride safe, Ted
I do use the front alot! ie: mostly, and I am all about trail braking, but at slowing to stop low speed and off camber that bike drops like a bomb!
greg
greg
Sorry if I overreacted, but ya sounded like me (when I was younger) and many that don't know the importance of the front brake.
I almost never use the rear brake anymore.
(Except at {extremely} low speeds or emergencies).
Taught myself to stay away from the rear when I got my 2014.
On it, the Linked brakes aren't smooth and application of the rear {after applying the front} is sudden/lurchy.
NOTE: On later models, Kawasaki got the linked system smoother.
On the 2014, (to help the lurchy brakes) "someone" (*??) told me to use only the front.
Don't recall who made that suggestion, but it Worked great.
** THANK YOU to whoever suggested it!
After the 2014/C-14, I started doing the same thing on my C-10 and dirt bikes too.
Also works great.
So, I try to spread the word.
Ride safe, Ted
PS: Slowing to stop low speed and off camber that bike drops like a bomb!
Use 1 or 2 fingers, and learn to use them smoothly.
ie: Practice, practice, PRACTICE..
Imagine this; If you didn't use the rear, "both feet" are available to place on the ground when needed.
I almost never use the rear brake anymore.
(Except at {extremely} low speeds or emergencies).
Taught myself to stay away from the rear when I got my 2014.
On it, the Linked brakes aren't smooth and application of the rear {after applying the front} is sudden/lurchy.
NOTE: On later models, Kawasaki got the linked system smoother.
On the 2014, (to help the lurchy brakes) "someone" (*??) told me to use only the front.
Don't recall who made that suggestion, but it Worked great.
** THANK YOU to whoever suggested it!
After the 2014/C-14, I started doing the same thing on my C-10 and dirt bikes too.
Also works great.
So, I try to spread the word.
Ride safe, Ted
PS: Slowing to stop low speed and off camber that bike drops like a bomb!
Use 1 or 2 fingers, and learn to use them smoothly.
ie: Practice, practice, PRACTICE..
Imagine this; If you didn't use the rear, "both feet" are available to place on the ground when needed.
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Well, I am with you on that, but you should know that the current thought ( MotoJitsu and MC rider ) is to stay off the front brake when coming to a stop with a heavy bike.. oh and Jerry Palladino too.. they all say use the friction zone and rear brake. Not the front. low speed u-turns and gymkana type stuff.. the front will kill you.
just sayin'
Greg
just sayin'
Greg
Geez, I thought they wuz smarter than that. 😝
Mebbe their talking about this for the general population, or rookie riders that don't know how to properly operate a front brake?
<smarty eleck grin>
Ride safe, Ted
Mebbe their talking about this for the general population, or rookie riders that don't know how to properly operate a front brake?
<smarty eleck grin>
Ride safe, Ted
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Well, the suspension definatley needs tuning as the front fork dive is rediculous with heavy front break. I intend to do a complete fork seal and service as well as rebuild the rear. adjustments on preload don't seem to work and damping is slow. That is a symptom of old oil I know.
thanks for the comments Ted.
Rubber side down!
Greg
thanks for the comments Ted.
Rubber side down!
Greg