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Michelin 5's

mjsrmiller9825

Member
Member
I have never purchased tires for my 2009 C14 that I got last fall. Cycle gear quoted me 415 plus 25 for each mount if I bring in Wheels. This for Michelin 5. I have the tire irons and ability to change tires but with a machine that will run this fast I feel I need balancing. Facing this every 5K miles makes me squeak a bit. Can't imagine what it would cost if I just took in the bike to a shop and said do it. I realize with 4 riders I will get 17 opinions on tire choices so that is not the issue. What is the best way to do tires if not afraid of a little work. I would have to check all the fasteners after someone else did it anyway. I'm way to old to be too trusting. I will check prices for buying online with shipping. Thank You all.
 

The Pope

Member
Member
With you already having the Tire Irons, why not spoon the old ones off and the new ones on and then take them to Cycle Gear for them to balance?
 

connie_rider

Member
Member
Being frugal; I use the Harbor freight Balancer. They even have the weights..
Balancing the wheel takes a little patience but doable.

Ride safe, Ted
 

nickrides

Member
Member
I bet those Michelin 5's are very good, but alot of $$$
465 bucks to go 5-6 K in my neighborhood is alot.
Nick
2014 C-14
 

timdow507

Tricycle
Forum Subscriber
I changed my tires myself for years. I used Dyna beads to balance, which worked fine. I moved the beads from tire to tire, adding some to account for some lost in the transfer.

With the new bike, I am going to just have the shop do it.
 

turbojoe78

Member
Member
try stallion tire sealant/balancer. they say it can seal up to a 1/2” diameter!
Sahara High Speed Tire Sealant - Superior Performance - Tire Repair - Stop Leaks - Extend Tire Life – All Weather – High-Speed – Slow Speed – ARDL Approved (34 Oz Bottle, Sahara) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07G4BFQ3W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_F1M72GGA5QXXCWJBKYDW
"Operates at Speeds up to 125mph."

maverick, have you tried this stuff at over 125mph? Our bikes will go quite a bit faster than that.
 

nickrides

Member
Member
Turbojoe
If I had a hole, anysize, in my tire fixed with sealant I would easily limit myself to 125 max, maybe way less, but thats just me. More likely something like 70.
Nick
2014 C-14
 

Daboo

Moderator
Staff member
Member
I suggest that if you change your tires yourself, try riding them without balancing them. When I started changing my own tires, I looked at all the options. For the first set, I used balancing beads. The ride was smooth, as expected. The next set, I decided to see what they felt like without the beads. The ride was still smooth.

I'm on my third or fourth set of tires now and am not using any balancing beads, weights, etc. I just align whatever dot there may be on the sidewall with the valve stem and ride them. I've had the bike up to 90 mph and not felt any vibration that I can attribute to the tires.

Chris
 

bobct

Member
Member
^
Actually another sub version too, GT version (for heavier sport/touring bikes) or non GT version in the PR (road) model. I think all/most go with the PR5GT vs non GT, because of the weight of the bikes.
 

2andblue

Member
Member
On my 4th set of 5's. Between 12 and 15 K per set. Get them balanced,
  1. Do you ride 2-up / loaded down at all?
  2. What are your cold pressures?
  3. Any extended high speed e.g. + 70 mph
  4. Twisties
  5. Any aggressive riding, I know subjective… (hard braking or acceleration, chicken wear-stripe what are your front and rear measurements?

    Thanks for sharing.​
 

lather

Member
Member
My NoMar chhanger has paid for itself many times over. And as Cliff said balancing is the easiest part of the job. I think I have the Parnes balancer.
I sometimes get Cycle Gear to change and balance a tire when I am lazy or the weather is cold and the tires too stiff. I usually IMPROVE on their computr/spin balance job with my static balance. Also, someone commented that they feel no vibration without balancing. However I believe that even though you dom't feel it there may be enough imbalance to affect tire wear. Many times I have seen wear bars on one third of a tire circumference but not on the other two thirds: uneven wear. Maybe caused by a slight imbalance.
 

mjsrmiller9825

Member
Member
  1. Do you ride 2-up / loaded down at all?
  2. What are your cold pressures?
  3. Any extended high speed e.g. + 70 mph
  4. Twisties
  5. Any aggressive riding, I know subjective… (hard braking or acceleration, chicken wear-stripe what are your front and rear measurements?

    Thanks for sharing.​
Thanks; I ride solo, been running 42-43 lbs. It's hard to stay below 70 on these things, cornering hard for me is probably laughable for a hard rider, Rear 190/55 ZR17--- Front 120/70 ZR17
 

mjsrmiller9825

Member
Member
I ordered yesterday Road 5 190/55ZR17 and 120/70ZR17. Will order Parnes balancer Monday. Price on tires I believe 385. I may look for an affordable changing stand and see if I can avoid wrestling with these damn things on the floor. I appreciate all the feedback and once again, I am not a big "joiner" but Cog membership really shines. Let's see, Ordering Parnes balancer, sending my tire pressure sensors off to Fred Harmon, Getting a flash from suggestions on the forum----- good grief, a drug habit might be more cost effective! And all of this after a week or two on the forum.
 

Daboo

Moderator
Staff member
Member
Also, someone commented that they feel no vibration without balancing. However I believe that even though you dom't feel it there may be enough imbalance to affect tire wear. Many times I have seen wear bars on one third of a tire circumference but not on the other two thirds: uneven wear. Maybe caused by a slight imbalance.
I've watched carefully for vibration or uneven wear. None.

Someone on another forum contacted one of the manufacturers as to why their sidewall had no dot to align with the valve stem. The reply from the manufacturer said that if their tires are found to be out-of-balance, then they scrap the tire.

In other words, their tire is balanced already, and the need for balancing, is because the wheel isn't balanced. My guess then is my wheels are also balanced, hence my ability to get by without balancing.

It would be interesting to balance just your wheel with no tire, then see if any additional balancing is needed once a time is mounted. If nove was needed, then perhaps you could skip balancing the times in the future.

Chris
 

OMoaC

Member
Member
  1. Do you ride 2-up / loaded down at all?
  2. What are your cold pressures?
  3. Any extended high speed e.g. + 70 mph
  4. Twisties
  5. Any aggressive riding, I know subjective… (hard braking or acceleration, chicken wear-stripe what are your front and rear measurements?

    Thanks for sharing.​
Either 2 up or loaded. Usually on a 4 to five day ride. 42 psi when able cold. Extended high speed? I've been told a ton for over an hour but cannot confirm. There are many more aggressive than me but do enjoy some spirited riding. Chicken strips show poor cornering strategy IMO. Anyone can burn off edges. Those that maintain the same speed w/o doing so...................... Heading to the bunker now...............
 

2andblue

Member
Member
Chicken strips show poor cornering strategy IMO.
Agreed to a point. Burned up front almost always a braking in the corner and would agree bad technique. Also rear run to the edges where corner was not straightened utilizing the apex or double apex.

Then there is geometry, to make that corner you will (even when properly setting up the corner) burn the edges - you’ll feel it before you see it and then will obsess to replicate and drive to find the perfect roads to practice your new found freedom.
 
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Jeff

Member
Member
I spent close to $700 to change both tires the first time I needed new tires at a dealer and decided I wasn't willing to spend that kind of money a couple times a year. Before I needed tires again I had purchased a harbor freight motorcycle tire changer and a harbor freight wheel balancer. I get the adhesive wheel weights and have been changing them myself ever since and have saved a boat load of money. Just be mindful of where you tire pressure sensors are with breaking the bead and mounting and de-mounting tires.
 

nickrides

Member
Member
Couple of comments here
1. I'm going to bite the Bullitt soon and get a set of those Michelin 5's next. I've always been a Michelin fan and I bet these are very nice, but pricey. I'm on RS3's now
2. Balancing: I had a tire guy for a couple of years who didn't believe in balancing; I rode several sets he mounted and did not balance. It seemed OK.
These days I'm getting my tires mounted by a friend down the street and I take a few minutes per wheel and balance them best I can. I start by cleaning the wheel off and going from there. In my experience all of my tires have used some weight to get them not to roll down with the heavy spot on the bottom. I like 'em balanced, I think it makes a difference especially at higher speeds.
I have have a few tires that needed substantial weight, I think its worth it to at least check after mounting.
YMMV
Nick 2014 C-14
 

TireguyfromMA

Member
Member
I have a No Mar tire machine I bought 11 years ago, got tired of paying the local dealer to scratch up my wheels and do a crappy job of balancing and give me a attitude. I've done over a thousand tires now...woo hoo! Almost everyone of them required balancing, I'd say the avg amount of weight is about 28 grams (1 oz). Once in a great while I'll get a tire wheel combo that requires zero weight.

I just put a new Road 5GT on the front of my C14. Just for kicks I balanced the front wheel prior to putting the tire on. Put the tire on and still had to 20 grams to balance it. If you take your wheel and tire to someone who says they "don't believe in balancing" you should turn around and leave! They are stupid and don't know what they are doing. You go out and buy premium tires for your C14, that you know your going to hit triple digit speeds on you should have those tires balanced perfectly!
 

ursharkfuel

God got one thing wrong: Stupid should be PAINFUL!
Member
Ok, I'll bite. Last year I got 10k out of a set ContiMotions. I know some think that is not possible, but I did, and I am almost 4K into my second set and they look pretty darn good with no signs of wear. So I think I may be on track for another 10K set.

I took off a pair of Michelins that looked good when I bought her (used) but after 11 of my 100 mile commutes looked bad and the rear went flat one day on my way home. Little did I know, it had been plugged by the prior owner and it was almost invisible. Of course until it let go :LOL: and left me stranded out in the desert.

To be completely honest, I really love Michelin tires - just not at the prices they charge for a C-14 set. But if I could get an honest 15k out of them I would definitely consider them because I hate, Hate, HATE changing tires. I no longer own a Harley because I like riding more than wrenching and tire changing just brings back all those horrible memories in the garage and standing on the roadside without a mobile phone (in those days) waiting for help. I enjoy riding soooo much more than sweating and bustin my knuckles all day on my bike.
 

big0red4224

Guest
Guest
Just put a MR5 on the rear today. I bought my bike with 4s on it and I got 4K out of the rear with barely any appreciable wear. Caught a nail, so I went with the 5. I expect the 5 should last a good long time.
 
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bobct

Member
Member
Picked up a set of PR5GT in 170/60/17 and 120/70/17 from Cycle Gear for $415 for my C10. Didn't need the front yet but because of the $60 rebate I bought both. I can't beleive the width of the rain grooves in person than the pics of the tires show. Had PR4GT last time around and loved them, especially in the rain. Hope to get 5k+ miles out of the rear.
 

bobct

Member
Member
Pipe dream?

Put the tire label off the new mounted rear PR5GT with current odometer reading on my tool chest next to the tire label from the replaced rear PR4GT label. Wait, what, I got 14,950 miles out of the balding but still capable PR4GT rear tire.
Did I miss putting labels up for a set of tires?

The label for the still mounted front PR4GT tire was there too and it has 8000 miles on it and besides some slight cupping it looks like it has half life left.
This is on a C10. I didn't date the labels but I'm pretty good about replacing the labels for every new tire so I don't think I missed a set especially when both labels for front and rear were there with staggered odometer readings.

Maybe they are worth the premium price besides the expected excellent all weather traction.

I know the C14 is a bear on tires but is anybody getting 10k plus miles on the rear 4GT or anyone that use these on a 17" converted C10?

I hope the 5GT gets similiar life, but if I get the expected 7500 miles out of it I may be scratching my head about missing a label/tire change and thinking about getting another 4GT.

Here's to getting older and forgetting where I parked the car, the funny thing is I never forget where I parked the bike though!!
 

ursharkfuel

God got one thing wrong: Stupid should be PAINFUL!
Member
Ok, I'll bite. Last year I got 10k out of a set ContiMotions. I know some think that is not possible, but I did, and I am almost 4K into my second set and they look pretty darn good with no signs of wear. So I think I may be on track for another 10K set.

Yes I know I am quoting myself, but it is time for a retraction! I am just this side of 6k and the ContiMotions are giving up FAST. The sides do not look good. centers look good, but the tires feel weak down in the turns. I'm definitely NOT going 10k on this pair. I'm a little odd, but not full on crazy.
 

bobct

Member
Member
Ok, about 1k on the PR5GT rear 170/60/17 on my C10, so far so good. No real signs of wear. Those little spikes on the tiare pretty robust against coming off, I have been down to the chicken strips and those little buggers are holding on.
No heavy rain riding to see how those deep/wide sipes work compared to the PR4GT that worked fabously in the rain, when the car I was following left wakes from their tires in the roadway. Will report back when I get in a deluge as how they compare in water.
 

1951vbs4426

Big Wheel
Forum Subscriber
On my 4th set of 5's. Between 12 and 15 K per set. Get them balanced,
I had better luck with tire life on the PR4GT vs the PR5GT
I purchsed the bike with 20,000 miles on it and the PR4GT,s were newer (but not brand new). Rear was 190/50. I replaced them with 3/32" tread left. 13,870 miles
Mounted & Balanced set of PR4GT's (190/55 rear) and got 16,995 miles (replaced at 2/32" tread) 16,995 (not a typo)
Replaced those with PR5GT"s (190/55 rear) and changed at 10,472 because they were wearing uneven and were at 5/32" tread)
Replaced with PR4GT (190/55 rear) and changed at 3/32" tread. 15,725 miles
Replaced those with PR4GT (190/55 rear) and got a flat the next day. Plugged it and have 8198 miles on it. Looking good but I keep looking at my TPMS.

2012 C14 Solo rider, pretty much loaded, 42psi cold, flat slab 85-90 mph (all the time) just a few twisties when I go on a trip.
 

1951vbs4426

Big Wheel
Forum Subscriber
I ask B/C I am jealous of you guys that get high miles from tires
I'm in the 5-7000 Miles group
Nick 2014 C-14
I think I could get even more miles if I had a chance to use the edge of the tires too. The tread takes it all.
I previously put around 115,000 on 2 Honda F6B's and would consistantly get 16-18000 miles out of Bridgestones on them.
It must be a combination of riding style with no short trips or quick starts.
 

2andblue

Member
Member
Road surface smoothness also plays a significant piece here as well. Deeper / more porous roads will eat tires in half the miles.

I’m excited because right now we are on track for more than 6K miles on some RSIV’s whereas PR4GT and worse yet R5GT we just ate those up / melted…
 

ursharkfuel

God got one thing wrong: Stupid should be PAINFUL!
Member
Not picking on the C10 folks, I had a Ninja 1000 back in the day and loved it, but there is no comparison between C10 tire results and C14 tire results. There is a significant difference in the weight, power, and chassis of these two machines for the results to be meaningful.

The C14 is one of the few bikes I have owned that you can clearly see what I like to call acceleration feathering on the tire. My rear tire is clearly worn from the torque/bite and it is plain as day. I have seen it on drag bikes. Other bikes I have owned do not wear the rear tire in the same fashion. Why on the C14, because it is a heavier machine that pulls like a beast when you "wind it up" and it shows on the rear tire.

Last year I got right about 10k from a pair of ContiMotions, but that will not be the case this year. I will be lucky to get 7500 on this set on the same commute. No change in road or route between last year and this year. So at first I thought it could be the tires. After looking closely at them I am convinced it is me. So why the 2500 difference? My money is my confidence level with the bike and my right hand. Last year she was new to me, this year I am very comfortable with her and I might be making many more high speed passes during my commute and at times pushing up the mountain a little faster. I know the tire has a more pronounced feathering now and last year it was very mild.
 
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