He said DCT. That didn't come until the second one.
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These are the voyages of the....
- Thread starter x01660
- Start date
It doesn't improve with age.Duh..... Man, my reading comprehension has been pretty poor as of late....
Maybe I should go on a ride.... IF ANYONE WOULD JOIN ME!!!!
-Z
It was the bottom one with the passenger seat. This one:
If I had money, this is what I'd get. But I'd get the bagger version, and it would be my perfect bike.
Edit: I'd get it with a clutch. I know the DCT is REALLY good, but I like having the extra control.
I rode with a guy I ran across in the Valley of Fire in NV. I was on Off Kilter at the time. And even in the twisties, off the line, from a dig, that bike was superior in EVERY way. Obvious, but is so refined in how it does it. This is a dream bike for me. Along with the KTM 1290 Super Adventure R, and an H2SE. But suprisingly only as a solo bike. I'd want the older GL1800 as a 2 up. They got rid of a LOT of storage space and shrunk the bike and added a gear. GREAT for performance, but took a lot away from the 2up-ability of the bike. Still. That flat-6 is a work of art.
-Z
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That's a mighty big smile on her face!
We started out the same way, with a backrest. After a few two-up trips (one being 11 days long), we got a Givi trunk and sold the backrest. The trunk was just as comfortable than the backrest (I just asked her). She can pack light, but the trunk was nice to have.
I also added small dining boards for her; she'd had ankle surgery, and they made a huge difference in comfort.
Looks like you have a great wife-to-be there!
We started out the same way, with a backrest. After a few two-up trips (one being 11 days long), we got a Givi trunk and sold the backrest. The trunk was just as comfortable than the backrest (I just asked her). She can pack light, but the trunk was nice to have.
I also added small dining boards for her; she'd had ankle surgery, and they made a huge difference in comfort.
Looks like you have a great wife-to-be there!
If you want something that you can afford look up a 1998 Honda Valkyrie. 100 hp smooth as butter on the highway. Mine I sold a year ago with 14 thousand on it for $5500.00 in mint condition. Duel hard bags on the back. It was beautiful.
Dean
Dean
If I had $5500 right now, I'd buy a C14 for sure. I love the F6C, but I'm wanting to start moving into a bit more modern bikes. I still have Off Kilter, and I REALLY liked that Reddit post I linked on here of the guy who made a cafe racer out of a C10. I really wanna do something like that. The idea of a long distance cafe, put superbike bars and super comfy seat. Would be a HOOT. But yeah. I think the NEXT bike I'll get will be a C14, followed by a GL1800r1, then a KLR 650 and maybe a Trail 125. Then I'll be set for a LONG time.
What I REALLY need to get is a truck. I could go Tacoma, but I REALLY like the Colorados and the Canyons look fantastic in the AT4X trim. White with black wheels....
-Z
My wedding is in September; gotta save for that. But as soon as the wedding is over, I'll probably get myself a C14 as a present!
And I'll FOR SURE be hitting up SiSF to do the Shoodaben Mountain Runner tune.
Looking forward to having 150+ HP on tap. In a bike that I can actually ride for long distances, lol. I love supersports, but at 6'2", 300lbs, they tend to get a bit cramped after 2-3 hours. Plus, you can't carry all your crap with you!
-Z
Hey, I got a question about the overflow tubes and a fuel smell.
I think I may have a bad petcock. I've got misting all around my carb, and the exterior of my inline fuel filter is coated with grime.
In additon, I've been parking my bike on the centerstand, and I would have very little drippage of oil. Last night, I left it on the sidestand, and there's a spot of black oil. That looks like what oil and gas mixed together look like. In addition, after I've been riding for a bit, I get a faint whiff of a gas smell.
I also looked under the bike, and it looks like the oil is originating from somewhere in the middle of the bike? The oil looks to be collecting on that bracket that goes across the oil pan, then it drips back and onto the ground (I'm parked at a slight incline). The centerstand and sidestand are also coated with slick oil. I don't see any coolant, nor do I smell it.
PO said he got overflow tubes installed when he sent the carbs out to Steve; where do they "overflow" to?
Thoughts?
-Z
I think I may have a bad petcock. I've got misting all around my carb, and the exterior of my inline fuel filter is coated with grime.
In additon, I've been parking my bike on the centerstand, and I would have very little drippage of oil. Last night, I left it on the sidestand, and there's a spot of black oil. That looks like what oil and gas mixed together look like. In addition, after I've been riding for a bit, I get a faint whiff of a gas smell.
I also looked under the bike, and it looks like the oil is originating from somewhere in the middle of the bike? The oil looks to be collecting on that bracket that goes across the oil pan, then it drips back and onto the ground (I'm parked at a slight incline). The centerstand and sidestand are also coated with slick oil. I don't see any coolant, nor do I smell it.
PO said he got overflow tubes installed when he sent the carbs out to Steve; where do they "overflow" to?
Thoughts?
-Z
The overflow tubes should have a hose on the nipple's {below the carbs} to allow fuel to run out onto the ground.
If you don't have hoses below the carbs, you need to confirm that you have overflow tubes installed.
(Put a hose on one of the nipples and blow thru the carb. If you can do it, you have overflow tubes. If you can not, you don't have the tubes).
If you have overflows and hoses installed, they should not be leaking any fuel onto the ground {unless the float valves are leaking fuel}.
NOTE: A leaking petcock "alone" does not overflow the carbs.
The combination of the petcock leaking and float valves not adjusted/sealing correctly does.
Additionally, being on the center stand is less likely to allow the fuel to overflow than setting on the side stand.
(because the bike is level)
If your smelling fuel while riding the most likely thing is the float valves not sealing properly.
Or, the petcock is dripping fuel externally.
Or; Another thing that can allow fuel smell is a diaphragm leak on the petcock.
Ride safe, Ted
If you don't have hoses below the carbs, you need to confirm that you have overflow tubes installed.
(Put a hose on one of the nipples and blow thru the carb. If you can do it, you have overflow tubes. If you can not, you don't have the tubes).
If you have overflows and hoses installed, they should not be leaking any fuel onto the ground {unless the float valves are leaking fuel}.
NOTE: A leaking petcock "alone" does not overflow the carbs.
The combination of the petcock leaking and float valves not adjusted/sealing correctly does.
Additionally, being on the center stand is less likely to allow the fuel to overflow than setting on the side stand.
(because the bike is level)
If your smelling fuel while riding the most likely thing is the float valves not sealing properly.
Or, the petcock is dripping fuel externally.
Or; Another thing that can allow fuel smell is a diaphragm leak on the petcock.
Ride safe, Ted
Its gotta be the petcock. That entire area is kinda sticky and grimey.
Is there anything in particular I need to do when replacing the petcock? Other than draining the fuel? Are there any upgrades I can do while I'm in there? Is there a "better" or "upgraded" petcock I can get?
-Z
Petcock replacement is just a matter of pulling the tank and removing and replacing the petcock. It might be possible with the tank on, but it's easy to remove and do it on an easily accessible bench (with lots of soft towels or something to protect the tank).
You can get rebuild kits for around $30, or a brand-new OEM one for a bit over $100 from Murph. I know some people have had mixed results with rebuilds, but taking care and cleaning and polishing the sealing surfaces, and disassembling the vacuum port and checking and cleaning the little buffer plug can help. K&L is the gold standard for aftermarket kits, which Murph also sells. I've used All Balls kits on other bikes and had good results, but they don't have the stellar reputation as K&L. All Balls does cover some models that K&L doesn't.
Murph also sells a manual conversion kit that disables the vacuum shut-off and makes "Off" a true off, but then you have to remember to use it every time.
Awesome! I think I'll just order the K&L. Might as well get the best.
And also, thank you all for answering these questions; I'm asking very particular questions and getting responses so this thread can hopefully be of use to future C10 owners. Common issues that are occuring as I go.
-Z
There are some articles in old Concourier issues and in Chalkdust on petcock rebuilding. That's where I learned about the hidden vacuum buffer plug.Awesome! I think I'll just order the K&L. Might as well get the best.
And also, thank you all for answering these questions; I'm asking very particular questions and getting responses so this thread can hopefully be of use to future C10 owners. Common issues that are occuring as I go.
-Z
Can't go wrong with Murph for the rebuild kit.
Hidden vacuum buffer plug?
I'll try to get a photo of mine later if I can remember. It's described on page 44 of the C10 Chalkdust booklet (it's in the member's tech section).
The spring 2009 Concourier issue (pages 18 and 19) also has a nice write-up (with some photos) of petcock rebuild, but does not discuss the vacuum disk/plug. I think it's linked in the tech documents section as well.
If this is plugged up, it won't cause external leakage, though, just impede vacuum feedback to the diaphragm, which will cause either/or both impairment to opening fuel flow, and shutting it off when the engine is off.
It's inside the back cover, in a chamber under the brass vacuum nipple. I just tried to take mine apart, but the nipple would not come off (the Chalkdust article says it screws out, and my nipple does in fact have a VERY thin hex, but it would not budge with either a wrench, pliers, or vise-grips. I actually wouldn't be surprised if it might be pressed in; perhaps that was a change over the years). You can tell there is a little sliding plug in there, though, which is a kind of one-way valve with slow bleed backwards. It allows free vacuum to suck on the diaphragm (opening the valve), and restricted flow back. I believe this is to keep the valve open long enough not to starve the carbs during hard acceleration when vacuum drops.
When you have the back cover off the petcock, just confirm that you can easily suck air through from the nipple, and only slowly blow into it. You will probably be able to hear the little plug slide as switch from sucking and blowing.
When you have the back cover off the petcock, just confirm that you can easily suck air through from the nipple, and only slowly blow into it. You will probably be able to hear the little plug slide as switch from sucking and blowing.
bowtie,
what pipes are you running on your bike?
what pipes are you running on your bike?
My 2005 with the summertime shorty windshield. Love the black and gold theme (N.O. Saints colors)
That '03 was the first Connie that started the obsession. Long gone. Those are Holeshots and really liked them. Priced a touch more these days!
You know, I need to take back EVERYTHING I said about snow... throughout my whole life.... I'm starting to understand why y'all put your bikes up in the winter....
This is where I had to park, because of all the ice everywhere. And this was 3 blocks from the White House....
And yes. That's not slush, but STRAIGHT ice. As in I almost fell on my butt walking across it....
Ugh.
-Z
This is where I had to park, because of all the ice everywhere. And this was 3 blocks from the White House....
And yes. That's not slush, but STRAIGHT ice. As in I almost fell on my butt walking across it....
Ugh.
-Z
I personally donāt like the cleanup needed and want to keep the salta off the aluminum.
Stay safe Z!
Yeah. I'm gonna give her a wash next week, and take the Vulcan when there's salt on the roads.
I also need to get 2 weatherproof covers for my bikes.
Snow isn't really a thing here, but we may get another storm or two, and I'm seeing the damage that can be done..... riding earlier was sketchy as heck..... even taking my bike off the centerstand... right boot was sliding on ice I had to clear..... sketchy, sketchy, SKETCHY.....
Ah well. The life of a biker, eh?!?
-Z
Back In the late 80's when I was young, dumb...my only transportation was a kawasaki 440 Ltd cruiser. Round trip back and forth to work was 20+ miles each way on mostly 2 lane rural roads. Great for spring summer and fall riding. But our Chicagoland winters can be an adventure. I never went down in the snow, I puttered behind traffic in the tire ruts, and due to tje low seat height I used.my legs as outriggers, did i mention I was young lol. How I never hurt myself is beyond me. I.couldnt do that back then on a c10, too tall for my stubby outriggers legs...
After yesterday's quick jaunt, I DEFINITELY will be staying put when there's ice. Thing is that it doesn't usually stick. I rode around all last winter on my Vulcan and it was fine. Because air temps were above freezing. So it was just slush. But yeah.... Lessons are being learned!
-Z
I've ridden with snow on the ground. It's cool to be out on a bike in those conditions. What's not cool is encountering an unexpected, unavoidable slick spot. There's videos of that happening on YouTube. I will ride in cold, but not after snow. I can show my son's X-ray pics of the results of cold riding on a dry street. Cold street plus cold tires and impatience equals a $60,000 tibial nail and a bunch of pain. Keep that in mind when riding in the winter. Ride safe.
I'm from out West. And haven't had my own car in about 13 years.... And we really haven't had too much snow/ice in DC since I've moved here. And generally the Snow Czar does a good job clearing the roads... But yeah. Starting to see why 4 wheels are a necessity in East Coast winters.
Plus, now I gotta wash all that salt off my bike....
-Z
As a number of us know, the fuel tanks are susceptible to rust due to (assumed) improper raw metal treatment. To make matters worse, there are low pockets on each side that collect debris over time, and water. I personally went through three tanks that rusted out in those low-pocket areas on my ā86, and am on the second tank on my ā95. Both of those bikes were ridden nearly every day in my commute to work, so they didnāt sit. What I didnāt do was use due diligence in periodically flushing and cleaning out the tank(s), or use frequent doses (every month or so) of Iso-Heet (red bottle) to try and āabsorbā any collected water. All three of my bike were also given the POR-15 treatment for added insurance.
The easy short answer: Add Iso-Heet to your tank on a regular basis.
I LOVE advice like this. Short, sweet, and to the point. I'll pick some Iso-HEET up today.
Thanks, Guy!
-Z
I have been ABSOLUTELY slammed..... and with the missus using her car for work, I've had to get a bit...creative... in how I move stuff around town.
So when you're called to help move a tech company out of a tower, and you have to take all their networking equipment, you have to do what you have to:
Moved 8, 50 port 1U switches, along with a BUTTLOAD of cables and connectors.
C10 for the win!!
-Z
So when you're called to help move a tech company out of a tower, and you have to take all their networking equipment, you have to do what you have to:
Moved 8, 50 port 1U switches, along with a BUTTLOAD of cables and connectors.
C10 for the win!!
-Z
Not sure I' m digging the rope though. I always have a couple good straps in my bags for unexpected stuff I may need to haul .
That was after I had already started taking it off.
Figured I might as well get a picture.Plus, the box is crushed because I was leaning on it. ALL the way. That thing didn't BUDGE.
And I was STILL able to split lanes!!! Otherwise, it would have been a LONG day.... too much construction!
-Z
Oh yeah. I'm a firm believer in the use of a motorcycle to do everything. As much as possible. I had both bags AND the top case full of cables.
Here, check out this page on Reddit:
r/MotorcycleLogistics
-Z
For the C-10, these key blanks should work. You would have to order the Kawasaki blank, but the Ilco and Taylor should be available at your local hardware store.
Ilco: KA14
Kawasaki: 27008-1103
Taylor: X103
I saw some keys at my shop last week.
Didn't think much about it at the time but was wondering why I had keys taped to a piece of paper.
Your note made me realize that they are key blanks for a Kawasaki. (I think C-10)
(If you need some blanks?) I'll be there Monday and can look.
Ride safe, Ted
Didn't think much about it at the time but was wondering why I had keys taped to a piece of paper.
Your note made me realize that they are key blanks for a Kawasaki. (I think C-10)
(If you need some blanks?) I'll be there Monday and can look.
Ride safe, Ted
I'll be there on Monday. If I forget to answer back,,, REMIND ME!!
My local locksmith had Ilco blanks in stock. My bike only came with one key, so I immediately had them make a copy. When I later put in a partzilla order for some other stuff, I got a Kawasaki blank and had them cut it, but the Ilco blanks was better. The locksmith had a heck of a time getting it to match, and had to file down some of it by hand. I think the current blank is a superceded part that fits a wider range of Kawasaki locks, so it isn't the best match for some. Not sure if that's the case for all Connie's, or just the wafer pattern in mine.
I found the blanks (3). They are Ilco.
Send me a PM with your address and I'll send them.
Ride safe, Ted
Send me a PM with your address and I'll send them.
Ride safe, Ted
Whelp......
Those tip over bars paid for themselves last night.
I'll post some pics later, but I went to put my bike up on the centerstand, and it BROKE..... And the bike tipped away from me and rested on the edge of the curb, on the tip over bar. I was on the ground holding my bike by the other tip over bar and the footpeg, to keep it from falling off the curb. Sat like that for 5 minutes until some passerbys lifted my bike.
Fun times. At least I have a spare centerstand, but damn, dude....
-Z
Those tip over bars paid for themselves last night.
I'll post some pics later, but I went to put my bike up on the centerstand, and it BROKE..... And the bike tipped away from me and rested on the edge of the curb, on the tip over bar. I was on the ground holding my bike by the other tip over bar and the footpeg, to keep it from falling off the curb. Sat like that for 5 minutes until some passerbys lifted my bike.
Fun times. At least I have a spare centerstand, but damn, dude....
-Z
Wow, that's a failure I have not heard of!Whelp......
Those tip over bars paid for themselves last night.
I'll post some pics later, but I went to put my bike up on the centerstand, and it BROKE..... And the bike tipped away from me and rested on the edge of the curb, on the tip over bar. I was on the ground holding my bike by the other tip over bar and the footpeg, to keep it from falling off the curb. Sat like that for 5 minutes until some passerbys lifted my bike.
Fun times. At least I have a spare centerstand, but damn, dude....
-Z
What part of the stand broke?
One of the legs broke off. Specifically the leg on the throttle side.
So I went to put it up, and as I was at the zenith before the bike settled back on the centerstand, the leg twisted and broke off, and the bike tilted forward.
I park on the sidewalk in a little cutout (behind a stop sign), so the bike fell with the tip over bar on the sidewalk edge, and my right saddlebag actually over the edge, off the ground, at the level of the curb.
I'll post pics later.
Also means I gotta get the new centerstand on, and those bolts were a freaking pain.....
AAAARRRGGHHH!!!!!
-Z
So I went to put it up, and as I was at the zenith before the bike settled back on the centerstand, the leg twisted and broke off, and the bike tilted forward.
I park on the sidewalk in a little cutout (behind a stop sign), so the bike fell with the tip over bar on the sidewalk edge, and my right saddlebag actually over the edge, off the ground, at the level of the curb.
I'll post pics later.
Also means I gotta get the new centerstand on, and those bolts were a freaking pain.....
AAAARRRGGHHH!!!!!
-Z
On my ZX600-C, you have to partially remove the exhaust system to access the center stand pivot bolts. On my parts bike, a previous owner apparently wanted the streamlined look of no center stand, but didn't want to do the work of dropping the exhaust, so they just sawzalled it off. There were two little dangly stubs rattling on the pivot bolts!One of the legs broke off. Specifically the leg on the throttle side.
So I went to put it up, and as I was at the zenith before the bike settled back on the centerstand, the leg twisted and broke off, and the bike tilted forward.
I park on the sidewalk in a little cutout (behind a stop sign), so the bike fell with the tip over bar on the sidewalk edge, and my right saddlebag actually over the edge, off the ground, at the level of the curb.
I'll post pics later.
Also means I gotta get the new centerstand on, and those bolts were a freaking pain.....
AAAARRRGGHHH!!!!!
-Z
Yeah, when I first got mine and saw how loose it was (12k miles, so barely worn), I checked to see if the side stand has the lock-out feature that some Harleys have, where they allow the bike to lean over a bit and the side stand moves into a notch that prevents it from pivoting back until you lift the bike up again. I'm not a big HD fan, but I always thought that was a really clever feature. I'm always paranoid about my bikes rolling forward and falling over due to the stand folding up. I usually park my bikes in 1st and roll them forward to take all the drive line slack out and then set the side stand down, so it has full engine resistance to rolling forward off the stand.
So apparently these bikes don't have that, but the stands are just loose, haha. The stands on my smaller Kawasakis never felt this loose, but they were all much lighter!
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