He said DCT. That didn't come until the second one.This is the GL1800 I was talking about:
View attachment 37665
Was it that one, or this one?
View attachment 37666
I would be looking at getting the former.
-Z
He said DCT. That didn't come until the second one.This is the GL1800 I was talking about:
View attachment 37665
Was it that one, or this one?
View attachment 37666
I would be looking at getting the former.
-Z
He said DCT. That didn't come until the second one.
It doesn't improve with age.Duh..... Man, my reading comprehension has been pretty poor as of late....
Maybe I should go on a ride.... IF ANYONE WOULD JOIN ME!!!!
-Z
The top one with the DCT I think. Not the bagger version.
If I had $5500 right now, I'd buy a C14 for sure. I love the F6C, but I'm wanting to start moving into a bit more modern bikes. I still have Off Kilter, and I REALLY liked that Reddit post I linked on here of the guy who made a cafe racer out of a C10. I really wanna do something like that. The idea of a long distance cafe, put superbike bars and super comfy seat. Would be a HOOT. But yeah. I think the NEXT bike I'll get will be a C14, followed by a GL1800r1, then a KLR 650 and maybe a Trail 125. Then I'll be set for a LONG time.If you want something that you can afford look up a 1998 Honda Valkyrie. 100 hp smooth as butter on the highway. Mine I sold a year ago with 14 thousand on it for $5500.00 in mint condition. Duel hard bags on the back. It was beautiful.
Dean
I can't remember which state it was in, but I saw an 09 C14 with 68,000 miles for $3500 a few days ago.
The overflow tubes should have a hose on the nipple's {below the carbs} to allow fuel to run out onto the ground.
If you don't have hoses below the carbs, you need to confirm that you have overflow tubes installed.
(Put a hose on one of the nipples and blow thru the carb. If you can do it, you have overflow tubes. If you can not, you don't have the tubes).
If you have overflows and hoses installed, they should not be leaking any fuel onto the ground {unless the float valves are leaking fuel}.
NOTE: A leaking petcock "alone" does not overflow the carbs.
The combination of the petcock leaking and float valves not adjusted/sealing correctly does.
Additionally, being on the center stand is less likely to allow the fuel to overflow than setting on the side stand.
(because the bike is level)
If your smelling fuel while riding the most likely thing is the float valves not sealing properly.
Or, the petcock is dripping fuel externally.
Or; Another thing that can allow fuel smell is a diaphragm leak on the petcock.
Ride safe, Ted
Petcock replacement is just a matter of pulling the tank and removing and replacing the petcock. It might be possible with the tank on, but it's easy to remove and do it on an easily accessible bench (with lots of soft towels or something to protect the tank).Its gotta be the petcock. That entire area is kinda sticky and grimey.
Is there anything in particular I need to do when replacing the petcock? Other than draining the fuel? Are there any upgrades I can do while I'm in there? Is there a "better" or "upgraded" petcock I can get?
-Z
Petcock replacement is just a matter of pulling the tank and removing and replacing the petcock. It might be possible with the tank on, but it's easy to remove and do it on an easily accessible bench (with lots of soft towels or something to protect the tank).
You can get rebuild kits for around $30, or a brand-new OEM one for a bit over $100 from Murph. I know some people have had mixed results with rebuilds, but taking care and cleaning and polishing the sealing surfaces, and disassembling the vacuum port and checking and cleaning the little buffer plug can help. K&L is the gold standard for aftermarket kits, which Murph also sells. I've used All Balls kits on other bikes and had good results, but they don't have the stellar reputation as K&L. All Balls does cover some models that K&L doesn't.
Murph also sells a manual conversion kit that disables the vacuum shut-off and makes "Off" a true off, but then you have to remember to use it every time.
There are some articles in old Concourier issues and in Chalkdust on petcock rebuilding. That's where I learned about the hidden vacuum buffer plug.Awesome! I think I'll just order the K&L. Might as well get the best.
And also, thank you all for answering these questions; I'm asking very particular questions and getting responses so this thread can hopefully be of use to future C10 owners. Common issues that are occuring as I go.
-Z
I'll try to get a photo of mine later if I can remember. It's described on page 44 of the C10 Chalkdust booklet (it's in the member's tech section).Hidden vacuum buffer plug?
That '03 was the first Connie that started the obsession. Long gone. Those are Holeshots and really liked them. Priced a touch more these days!bowtie,
what pipes are you running on your bike?
I personally donāt like the cleanup needed and want to keep the salta off the aluminum.You know, I need to take back EVERYTHING I said about snow... throughout my whole life.... I'm starting to understand why y'all put your bikes up in the winter....
Stay safe Z!And yes. That's not slush, but STRAIGHT ice. As in I almost fell on my butt walking across it....
Ugh.
-Z
I personally donāt like the cleanup needed and want to keep the salta off the aluminum.
Stay safe Z!
Back In the late 80's when I was young, dumb...my only transportation was a kawasaki 440 Ltd cruiser. Round trip back and forth to work was 20+ miles each way on mostly 2 lane rural roads. Great for spring summer and fall riding. But our Chicagoland winters can be an adventure. I never went down in the snow, I puttered behind traffic in the tire ruts, and due to tje low seat height I used.my legs as outriggers, did i mention I was young lol. How I never hurt myself is beyond me. I.couldnt do that back then on a c10, too tall for my stubby outriggers legs...
Never ridden when there was a real risk of any ice on roads.
My brother, however, only had his CBR1000F as transportation for a couple of years, in Chicago. Yeah...he was young.
Is there anything I CAN be doing to help with keeping the fuel system clean? Or anything I should be looking out for?
And if I need to replace a leaky petcock, is there some "upgrade" or enhancement I can do? I'm pretty sure my petcock is buggered....
-Z
As a number of us know, the fuel tanks are susceptible to rust due to (assumed) improper raw metal treatment. To make matters worse, there are low pockets on each side that collect debris over time, and water. I personally went through three tanks that rusted out in those low-pocket areas on my ā86, and am on the second tank on my ā95. Both of those bikes were ridden nearly every day in my commute to work, so they didnāt sit. What I didnāt do was use due diligence in periodically flushing and cleaning out the tank(s), or use frequent doses (every month or so) of Iso-Heet (red bottle) to try and āabsorbā any collected water. All three of my bike were also given the POR-15 treatment for added insurance.
The easy short answer: Add Iso-Heet to your tank on a regular basis.
Not sure I' m digging the rope though . I always have a couple good straps in my bags for unexpected stuff I may need to haul .
You're...creative and resourceful?
In most of the world's countries that would not raise any eyebrows.
For the C-10, these key blanks should work. You would have to order the Kawasaki blank, but the Ilco and Taylor should be available at your local hardware store.Quick question, so I don't start a new thread:
Where can I get key blanks for a C10? Need to copy my key for my C10 and my VN800.
Thanks!
-Z
I saw some keys at my shop last week.
Didn't think much about it at the time but was wondering why I had keys taped to a piece of paper.
Your note made me realize that they are key blanks for a Kawasaki. (I think C-10)
(If you need some blanks?) I'll be there Monday and can look.
Ride safe, Ted
My local locksmith had Ilco blanks in stock. My bike only came with one key, so I immediately had them make a copy. When I later put in a partzilla order for some other stuff, I got a Kawasaki blank and had them cut it, but the Ilco blanks was better. The locksmith had a heck of a time getting it to match, and had to file down some of it by hand. I think the current blank is a superceded part that fits a wider range of Kawasaki locks, so it isn't the best match for some. Not sure if that's the case for all Connie's, or just the wafer pattern in mine.Quick question, so I don't start a new thread:
Where can I get key blanks for a C10? Need to copy my key for my C10 and my VN800.
Thanks!
-Z
Wow, that's a failure I have not heard of!Whelp......
Those tip over bars paid for themselves last night.
I'll post some pics later, but I went to put my bike up on the centerstand, and it BROKE..... And the bike tipped away from me and rested on the edge of the curb, on the tip over bar. I was on the ground holding my bike by the other tip over bar and the footpeg, to keep it from falling off the curb. Sat like that for 5 minutes until some passerbys lifted my bike.
Fun times. At least I have a spare centerstand, but damn, dude....
-Z
Perhaps spray the inside of the tubes thoroughly with some Waxoyl or other autobody cavity corrosion protection.Paint that thing before you put it on. You be lucky Zak.
On my ZX600-C, you have to partially remove the exhaust system to access the center stand pivot bolts. On my parts bike, a previous owner apparently wanted the streamlined look of no center stand, but didn't want to do the work of dropping the exhaust, so they just sawzalled it off. There were two little dangly stubs rattling on the pivot bolts!One of the legs broke off. Specifically the leg on the throttle side.
So I went to put it up, and as I was at the zenith before the bike settled back on the centerstand, the leg twisted and broke off, and the bike tilted forward.
I park on the sidewalk in a little cutout (behind a stop sign), so the bike fell with the tip over bar on the sidewalk edge, and my right saddlebag actually over the edge, off the ground, at the level of the curb.
I'll post pics later.
Also means I gotta get the new centerstand on, and those bolts were a freaking pain.....
AAAARRRGGHHH!!!!!
-Z
Yeah, when I first got mine and saw how loose it was (12k miles, so barely worn), I checked to see if the side stand has the lock-out feature that some Harleys have, where they allow the bike to lean over a bit and the side stand moves into a notch that prevents it from pivoting back until you lift the bike up again. I'm not a big HD fan, but I always thought that was a really clever feature. I'm always paranoid about my bikes rolling forward and falling over due to the stand folding up. I usually park my bikes in 1st and roll them forward to take all the drive line slack out and then set the side stand down, so it has full engine resistance to rolling forward off the stand.Lucky the bike & you didn't get hurt.
Never heard of that before either. I have often wondered about the side stand, it has a good amount of flex in it, never worried about the center stand...
Nice for passers by to assist.
Wayne
Over the years I've heard of several instances of one of the legs breaking, but not the lever arm that I recall.First time I have heard of that.