mr t said:After I put 6K on my new 06 C10, I disassembled the rear part of the bike to lube the splines. When I inspected the driveshaft and U-joint I found the joint moved freely one way but was binding the other way. I took the driveshaft to my dealer and they agreed it would be covered under the warranty.
It looked like one of the O-rings sealing the needle bearings had been pinched on assembly.
Boomer said:Must have been a manufacturing fault then as they are sealed for life bearings.
I have a couple of drive shafts in the garage that have been sat for 5-10 years and they still move like new.
Bergmen said:Not being able to service the U-joint (by replenishing lubrication, replacement of the seals or replacement of the joint itself) is a design flaw of this drive shaft. It should not be a requirement to replace the complete drive shaft due to U-joint issues.
Dan
Equito said:Bergmen said:Not being able to service the U-joint (by replenishing lubrication, replacement of the seals or replacement of the joint itself) is a design flaw of this drive shaft. It should not be a requirement to replace the complete drive shaft due to U-joint issues.
Dan
Dan, isn't it possible to pull the c-clips and use a small press to remove the joint's caps for periodic cleaning/lubing? I bought a used shaft to experiment on and pulled one of the clips before getting sidetracked on another project. I hope to be able to maintain the original and spare shafts/joints and swap shafts on x number of tire changes. Please confirm it's so.
Bergmen said:Yes, I believe this can be done. There are issues with this, though:
1) I have no idea what would be the best specialized lubricant for this. The stuff I saw leaking out of one of my driveshafts was like nothing I've seen before (feel and smell).
2) The seals would have to available for replacement and I don't know what would work.
3) In reassembling, one must be VERY careful to do two things:
a) Bring the assembly to the exact center of the yoke (or press-in so that the C-clip just fits in the groove on the cup).
b) Not over-press putting an end load on the pinion.
I have a driveshaft also that I want to disassemble the U-joint and inspect. I also want to try to find a generic replacement (I have a comprehensive list of all available U-joints).
Also, I have no history in servicing U-joints other than those (usually on trucks) that have zerk fittings for re-greasing. I have always replaced them since they are damaged beyond repair after symptoms appear.
mattchewn said:Ok so i just did a quick google search for concours u-joints and found a listing. Looks like someone has to measure the joint and order by measurements. The ujoint store online has metric joints in the 20 mm and up sizes. Guess my assumption of availability isn't necessarily all wrong? If I am incorrect please feel free to abuse me as desired! I can take it.
Matt
Bergmen said:1) I have no idea what would be the best specialized lubricant. The stuff I saw leaking out of one of my driveshafts was like nothing I've seen before (feel and smell).
Same here, I've seen 2 C14's with grenaded shafts, but this is the first C10 I've seen, there may have been people with worn out ones, but neever saw them post.Mettler1 said:WOW!!! I joined COG in 1992 and this is the first time I've seen that!!! ???