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Hand numbness

The Stig said:
Here's a thought. Is anyone that has vibes using mineral oil in the engine?

I remember with the Blackbird I changed the oil and used fully synth. The noise from the engine and clutch basket was so bad that I dumped the fully synth and filled with semi. Problem solved.

I have no idea what the bike comes with, no idea what was put into it at first service. Might try mineral oil to see if it makes any difference. Hey, I've tried almost everything else....
Click to expand...

I have not tried straight mineral oil, but the Kawasaki branded oil is supposed to be semi-synthetic (Motul 5100 as of last year).  I was running that until my last oil change about 900 miles ago.  I'm now running full synthetic, and didn't notice any difference in vibrations.

I would be shocked if the motor oil makes a difference, but it would be an inexpensive experiment.

Just this morning I was thinking my hands seem to be getting numb a little sooner than they were in recent days during my commute.  I think it's caused by body position though, as I'm still getting re-accustomed to riding with both hands on the bars all the time.  That, and I've been running a little higher RPM's (lower gears) than I used to as well.

Stig, did you ever collect any vibration data with your phone?  I captured about 40 minutes of data at various RPM's, gears, and speeds, but still trying to process the data.  I'm seeing the G-meter graph doing swings of 6 G's anytime the RPM gets above 3800, on all 3 axis.  This is with the phone strapped to the top of the clutch reservoir with 3 large rubber bands.

 
Not yet C1, I'm actually looking out the window here at a torrential downpour that ducks wouldn't even go out in.

We have had the worst frickin summer here, I don't think we've ever had a summer so wet!
 
Cap'n Bob said:
Yeah, it's raining heavy here right now as well.  This has definetly been a weird year.
Click to expand...

We've had a weak summer here too.  Seems that Texas got all the heat, and we've just been stuck in the mid 70's (F) with a few low 80's (F) for highs, high 40's (F) to low 50's (F) for lows.

It must be from all those eco-theorists claiming we're ruining the planet with our obnoxious motorcycle emissions.  It's messing with all the psychic weather energy.  :-\

 
Hi, this is my first post. I purchased my 2011 Connie on July 15 and have 1,979 miles on the odometer; I'm retired so I can spend a lot of time riding. Previously I owned a 2006 Goldwing that I loved but decided two years ago to take a time out from riding. I love the Connie but the hand numbness issue has been driving me nuts so today I decided to do a little experimenting. Up until today both my hands would be numb 15 minutes into a ride and they stayed that way until I took a rest. Today I did a ride with some of my buddies the first section of the ride was 65 miles on the freeway. I decided not to wear my snug fitting Icon gloves and instead wore a pair of looser fitting leather gloves. When we arrived at our destination I had no numbness in my left hand but my index finger, the finger next to it and my thumb on my right hand were a bit numb. After breakfast we continued with our ride but I rode without any gloves, I still had some numbness in my right hand in the same places. About half way through this section of the ride I decided to take my two fingers off the right hand brake leaver and with in minutes I had very little if any numbness in my right hand. Ever since I have been riding I have had two fingers placed on the break leaver and it's never been an issue. For the return trip home I rode with my gloves and had very little or no numbness. I have ordered some bar risers that I hope will take some of the pressure off the palms of my hands and get me in a more upright position.
 
I know we've been thru this before ... but, I have had numbness in my hands when riding my mountain bike ... before I raised the bars significantly. 

When I had an FJR ... my hands routinely went numb.  I raised the bars, but not enough to make the bike comfortable.  My hands went numb, or tingled. 

I had a ZX1400 Ninja ... numb hands in a very short period of time.  I had the LSL deal hooked up with Spiegler bars and it all went away.  Sitting very neutral in the saddle.

I know others will disagree ... but, having weight on your palms, even a seemingly smallish amount of forward leaning weight such as on the mountain bike, the FJR, or ST1300 (same/same) ... or the C14 ... may cause some carpal tunnel type symptoms.  Or, giving some pressure on the ulner, and possibly, the radial nerve in the palms which will cause numbness.

I could be wrong.  I'm just going by experience here.

Yes, I know some of you with numbness have added risers.  I have done the same/same with MCLs and Phil's wedges.  The situation was better, but I still was uncomfortable.  Better, but not great.  Everyone is different in stature, arm length, torso length, etc.

When I got my weight OFF of my hands while sitting on the bike ... my numbness pretty much went away.  Yeah, body posture has some influence here as well ... but, the largest culprit was weight on the bars.

My comfort level with the MCLs, Phil's wedges and my custom riser blocks makes all the difference in the world.  Makes the difference between riding 100 miles with some discomfort and riding 200 comfortable.  Oh, and Spencer's seat mod can make a difference, too .... he can adjust the height you sit to keep your weight on your butt, not your hands.

Just sayin' ..............
 
alz said:
Hi, this is my first post. I purchased my 2011 Connie on July 15 and have 1,979 miles on the odometer; I'm retired so I can spend a lot of time riding. Previously I owned a 2006 Goldwing that I loved but decided two years ago to take a time out from riding. I love the Connie but the hand numbness issue has been driving me nuts so today I decided to do a little experimenting. Up until today both my hands would be numb 15 minutes into a ride and they stayed that way until I took a rest. Today I did a ride with some of my buddies the first section of the ride was 65 miles on the freeway. I decided not to wear my snug fitting Icon gloves and instead wore a pair of looser fitting leather gloves. When we arrived at our destination I had no numbness in my left hand but my index finger, the finger next to it and my thumb on my right hand were a bit numb. After breakfast we continued with our ride but I rode without any gloves, I still had some numbness in my right hand in the same places. About half way through this section of the ride I decided to take my two fingers off the right hand brake leaver and with in minutes I had very little if any numbness in my right hand. Ever since I have been riding I have had two fingers placed on the break leaver and it's never been an issue. For the return trip home I rode with my gloves and had very little or no numbness. I have ordered some bar risers that I hope will take some of the pressure off the palms of my hands and get me in a more upright position.
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Welcome, and congrats on getting a couple thousand miles in your first month with the C14.  ^-^

Yes, tight fitting gloves are very likely to cause numb hands and fingers.  If the fingers of the gloves feel tight when gripping the bars, they are more likely to cause problems.

I have a nice pair of full leather gloves with Kevlar knuckle guards, that fit snug.  If I wear them, I can be certain my hands will go numb on the C14 within minutes.  However, those same gloves on my other bikes do not cause any problems.  I usually wear mesh gloves with gel palms, and I can ride for extended periods if I take my hands off the bars and flex my fingers a bunch every 10 or 15 minutes.
 
Bagger said:
I know we've been thru this before ... but, I have had numbness in my hands when riding my mountain bike ... before I raised the bars significantly. 

When I had an FJR ... my hands routinely went numb.  I raised the bars, but not enough to make the bike comfortable.  My hands went numb, or tingled. 

I had a ZX1400 Ninja ... numb hands in a very short period of time.  I had the LSL deal hooked up with Spiegler bars and it all went away.  Sitting very neutral in the saddle.

I know others will disagree ... but, having weight on your palms, even a seemingly smallish amount of forward leaning weight such as on the mountain bike, the FJR, or ST1300 (same/same) ... or the C14 ... may cause some carpal tunnel type symptoms.  Or, giving some pressure on the ulner, and possibly, the radial nerve in the palms which will cause numbness.

I could be wrong.  I'm just going by experience here.

Yes, I know some of you with numbness have added risers.  I have done the same/same with MCLs and Phil's wedges.  The situation was better, but I still was uncomfortable.  Better, but not great.  Everyone is different in stature, arm length, torso length, etc.

When I got my weight OFF of my hands while sitting on the bike ... my numbness pretty much went away.  Yeah, body posture has some influence here as well ... but, the largest culprit was weight on the bars.

My comfort level with the MCLs, Phil's wedges and my custom riser blocks makes all the difference in the world.  Makes the difference between riding 100 miles with some discomfort and riding 200 comfortable.  Oh, and Spencer's seat mod can make a difference, too .... he can adjust the height you sit to keep your weight on your butt, not your hands.

Just sayin' ..............
Click to expand...

I've also done all the stuff you did, except I have the Kawi low gel instead of the Spencer's.  The last big thing I did was add Phil's Wedges on top of the risers, and that allowed me to start riding with both hands again.  I'm still training myself not to lean on the bars, as I had gotten out of practice riding one handed for so long.  Given I have to reach for the bars anyway, it's still a bit of a challenge, especially when I'm doing any aggressive riding.

There has been lots of discussions on body positioning, and keeping weight off the bars early in this thread.  Actually it's been covered pretty extensively.

Now were trying to focus on the cause(s) and cure(s) of the vibrations, because some bikes have them worse than others.
 
If brand new bike A vibrates more than brand new bikes B, C and D. I would suspect the assembly.

When DOMO AIR was still buying and selling, a guy brought me his C182... he wanted to sell it to me and never see it again.  He told me it had a terrible vibration, that he'd had the prop dynamically balanced, checked the runout on the crank and every other thing he could think of.  Somebody told him to put a thicker windshield in the plane so he did but to no avail.  I sat down with the logs, read back two years to when he thought he noticed the vibration.  I saw that the annual inspection had squawked the old stiff motor mounts and new ones were fitted.  After we pulled the cowl I told the guy I'd buy the airplane but thought he should turn the two front mounts right side up, fly the airplane and see if he still wanted to sell it.  He's still flying it eleven years later.  It's probably about due for new motor mounts... right side up ones.

I've never had one of these things apart and don't plan to so I don't know how they're put together but, I'll bet there is a right way and a wrong way.

I do know that vibration will transmit better through over torqued fasteners and over preloaded bearings, like maybe steering head bearings?
 
domo said:
If brand new bike A vibrates more than brand new bikes B, C and D. I would suspect the assembly.

When DOMO AIR was still buying and selling, a guy brought me his C182... he wanted to sell it to me and never see it again.  He told me it had a terrible vibration, that he'd had the prop dynamically balanced, checked the runout on the crank and every other thing he could think of.  Somebody told him to put a thicker windshield in the plane so he did but to no avail.  I sat down with the logs, read back two years to when he thought he noticed the vibration.  I saw that the annual inspection had squawked the old stiff motor mounts and new ones were fitted.  After we pulled the cowl I told the guy I'd buy the airplane but thought he should turn the two front mounts right side up, fly the airplane and see if he still wanted to sell it.  He's still flying it eleven years later.  It's probably about due for new motor mounts... right side up ones.

I've never had one of these things apart and don't plan to so I don't know how they're put together but, I'll bet there is a right way and a wrong way.

I do know that vibration will transmit better through over torqued fasteners and over preloaded bearings, like maybe steering head bearings?
Click to expand...

Good story.

One of the likely sources for vibrations on the C14 has been the upper motor to frame mount bolts being too tight.  Several have reported reduced vibrations when they set them to the proper torque.  Didn't seem to help mine, even though they were very tight.

 
Good, here's two more stories:

DOMO Air was the sole dealer for American Champion Aircraft in CA, AZ, NV, OR and WA 1998-2003  I saw a lot of weird assembly screw-ups, a couple that tried to kill me.  One that didn't try to kill me but is relevant is this.  The Factory delivered a new Super D to me in Florida at Sun & Fun.  It was set up for display when I arrived from CA.  I didn't sell this particular plane during the show and when I grabbed it by the tail to push it out and head for home, I heard a funny noise.  I backed off, looked at the tailwheel noticing there was no washer, nut or cotter on the axle.  I got Dale over there and pointed it out and he sheepishly said he'd take care of it which he did while I got my water bottles and charts in order.  I flew to my home field in SOCAL and was greeted by one of my mechanics who I told, Take a look at that damn tailwheel and see what you think.  Steve found me in the cafe about ten minutes later, told me he took the tailwheel apart and there were NO BEARINGS in it nor had there ever been.
This was a subcontractor supplied assembly (Scott) that got bolted to a new airplane.  S__t happens in man-ufacturing.

Story #2... or whatever:

When I was a Norton, Ducati, Kawasaki and Bridgestone dealer in Kalamazoo, I remember a clutch with no plates, an intake gasket with NO HOLE in it and last but certainly not least, a crated motorcycle from Berliner with... no engine in the frame.  So, you say you have a vibration?

 
C1xrider ...

I don't want to re-read all 8 pages of this thread, but wonder if you've had anyone who owns the same year C14 as you do ride your bike?  And, if so ... what do they think?  Also ... have you ridden another person's same model year bike to see how it "felt"?

If you've done this ... I apologize.
 
Bagger said:
C1xrider ...

I don't want to re-read all 8 pages of this thread, but wonder if you've had anyone who owns the same year C14 as you do ride your bike?  And, if so ... what do they think?  Also ... have you ridden another person's same model year bike to see how it "felt"?

If you've done this ... I apologize.
Click to expand...

No one has ridden my C14 but me.  I rode another 2010, but it was just around the block at low speeds.  Never had a chance to open it up a little.
 
C1xRider said:
Bagger said:
C1xrider ...

I don't want to re-read all 8 pages of this thread, but wonder if you've had anyone who owns the same year C14 as you do ride your bike?  And, if so ... what do they think?  Also ... have you ridden another person's same model year bike to see how it "felt"?

If you've done this ... I apologize.
Click to expand...

No one has ridden my C14 but me.  I rode another 2010, but it was just around the block at low speeds.  Never had a chance to open it up a little.
Click to expand...

Too bad you don't live close to me.  I'd be happy to let you ride my bike for 10-20 miles while I followed on yours.  80 mph is fine, too.

Maybe someone in your area will let you "trade off", eh?  It'd be nice to see if you had a comparison to draw from.  BTW ... the vibraton I have with my Concours is 100 times less than the HD Fatboy I had a decade ago. 
 
Bagger said:
Too bad you don't live close to me.  I'd be happy to let you ride my bike for 10-20 miles while I followed on yours.  80 mph is fine, too.

Maybe someone in your area will let you "trade off", eh?  It'd be nice to see if you had a comparison to draw from.  BTW ... the vibraton I have with my Concours is 100 times less than the HD Fatboy I had a decade ago.
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That's a great sentiment Bagger, thanks.

I've owned many bikes over the years, and I've been riding for about 39 years.  I bought the C14 because I was tired of the vibs on the C10.  Even though the fixes for that bike are well known, I wanted to get away from the maintenance required to keep it smooth(er).

Sadly, the C14 vibs are worse(more intense) than any bike I've ever owned.  If a test drive had been an option with this one, I would have never bought it.

However, with help from folks on these forums, I have been able to make it more rideable.  I guess that's one of the reasons I'm trying to help get to bottom of this issue.  When someone like Stig comes along saying how his 2008 was smooth until it passed 36,000 Kilometers then started buzzing, and now his new one is as bad or worse, it tells me there is a solution out there, we just need to find it.
 
Yup, I've ridden two GTR's and compared them. One didn't have a vibration, that was my 2008 GTR. The second one had the vibration, that was my 2011 GTR.

I had a 2008 without a vibe so I upgraded to the 2011 that did have the vibe. Bit like the guy in the restaurant who says 'Waiter waiter, I've a fly in my soup', 'ssshh, please sir, be quiet or they'll all want one'.

The last two days here have been perfect biking weather. 15-19 degrees C. Sunshine, dry roads and I've been looking out on my 2011 bike and have been getting further depressed at that bastard of a bike sitting there and I can't enjoy riding it.

Tomorrow I'll be putting the seismometer on the bars and trying to get a reading at various RPM.

I can't express how mad I am at Kawasaki for completely ruining my experience with my brand new 2011 GTR. It's actually disgraceful that they'll sell a bike to the masses who then need to modify the shit out of it to make it rideable.
 
Stig ... I feel your pain, m'friend.  Sux not being comfy on your bike.  I've been there before, too.

What I meant was ... can you ride another 2010/2011 and compare it with your bike?  Someone out in your area (I am sure) would trade bikes with you for 10-20 miles so a fair comparison can be made between the two for you.  I'm sure your bike vibrates like a mutha, but wonder if you think the other '10s/'11s do also??

Like I said, before ... I'd be happy to allow a fellow C14 person ride my bike for a bit to see how my 'comfort farkles' work, or whatever.  Of course, I'd ride their bike along with, eh.  :beerchug:

 
I've stopped 95% of the vibration in the grips at all speeds to 75 mph... maybe faster, I'll let you know.  This is with no gloves.

I cut four thin isolation pads from  6" square red rubber gasket material ($4.75) I found at HOME DEPOT's plumbing department.  I put them above and below the Helibar 2" risers and torqued to 8 ft/lbs.

I have the Throttle Meister bar ends.

I single wrapped the stock heated grips with a high grade cork/content bicycle handle bar tape from my local bicycle shop.  The same wrap was applied to both brake and clutch levers.

I've invested $35.00 in the wraps and the gasket material which I used half of as two sheets are in the pack and one makes 5 gaskets.  It's about an hour of screwing around.

I know how I'm going to numb out the final 5%... will tell you after I do it. 
 
domo said:
I've stopped 95% of the vibration in the grips at all speeds to 75 mph... maybe faster, I'll let you know.  This is with no gloves.

I cut four thin isolation pads from  6" square red rubber gasket material ($4.75) I found at HOME DEPOT's plumbing department.  I put them above and below the Helibar 2" risers and torqued to 8 ft/lbs.

I have the Throttle Meister bar ends.

I single wrapped the stock heated grips with a high grade cork/content bicycle handle bar tape from my local bicycle shop.  The same wrap was applied to both brake and clutch levers.

I've invested $35.00 in the wraps and the gasket material which I used half of as two sheets are in the pack and one makes 5 gaskets.  It's about an hour of screwing around.

I know how I'm going to numb out the final 5%... will tell you after I do it.
Click to expand...

Pics?
 
Yeah, and tensile force transfers vibration... think piano string.  When you tighten a bolt you are essentially stretching it using the incline of the threads.  The primary force that would cause the connection between your handlebars and the top member to fail is "shear" not tensile nor compression.  The  twist or side tolerance in the three bolt union including Helibar parts is nil.  I cannot speak for any other risers.  The isolation pads (or gaskets if you will) compress slightly, torqued as I have done and serve as a low grade locking mechanism.  I intend to ride on, checking to see if any loosening of the six bolts occurs.  If none occurs after two thousand miles, I will remove the pads, replace them with new ones and replace the bolts at the same torque but, this time I will employ a medium strength thread locking adhesive.  I will not re-compress the original pads.  Nor will I smash them flat with a high torque component.  It will take me fifteen minutes.

I'm not telling you to do what I do, rather telling you what I did and why my hands don't go numb.  Vibration is being carried, I suspect amplified and terminated in the palms of your hands.  You need to stop it before it gets there.  Harley traded localized vibration for total bike and rider shaking.  So did Norton with it's famous "Isolastic Construction" when changing up from the Atlas to the Commando.  The connection here is what let me to suspect assembly and over torquing by the Factory.  It's stating a suspicion, not a fact.  It's just me telling you what I've done.
 
After I hit the POST button last time I jumped on my C14 with bags full of shells and gear and the Pirazzi strapped behind in its case.  I rode about forty miles south on I-75 to Sarasota Trap & Skeet and could actually pull the trigger on moving targets as soon as I got off the bike.  No hand numbness.  I have to tell you that most of the trip down was interstate so my palms were at the grips infrequently.  I set the throttle around 74 mph and move my palms to rest stiff-armed on the cast "knuckles" for the stock bar risers.  I move around.

I intentionally took 41 home so my hand were at the grips constantly.  The coastal route is relatively conjested traffic with a lot of up and down the middle and lower rev range averaging about 40 with tops 65.  About an hour ride either way.  Nothing I pull the Airhawk out for.  Still long enough to smile confidently about wanting more... not less. 

The bars didn't fall off, I didn't pull them off and the screws did not loosen.  The children are safely home.

As far as pics, you can't see the isolators installed and before installation they look like red rubber gaskets with three holes each... four pieces total.  The pics will come after what I'm about to do.  You'll probably have to see it to...
 
domo said:
After I hit the POST button last time I jumped on my C14 with bags full of shells and gear and the Pirazzi strapped behind in its case.  ...  The children are safely home.
Click to expand...

Is that Police Officer Standards and Training? Anything fun or just a refresher?
 
Sporting clays and bunker... the expensive habit/addiction/hobby/main deal.  Motorcycles, motor home, Z06, Stinson 108-3 and airliners is how I get there.  That's why I can't put up with hands going numb.
 
Dreaded Hand Numbness Syndrome:  For (my) fun, but in all seriousness, let's talk in detail on this topic. First, since you are experienced, it likely is due to the new position your body has taken relative to your past bike.  The body is using its riding muscles in a slightly, or may be radically, different manner.  (It is tough to design a bike--especially the handlebar height and angles--for both sport and touring.) The basic mechnics though remain the same:  The numbness in your hand (and tightness in your shoulders) is due to a combination of: (a) posture, (b) lack of relaxation, and (c) vibration.  Second, it is brought on more quickly if you are older and/or relative to your general physical conditioning....and it doesn't matter how much riding you do, there is other physical conditioning that is required.  (This is due to cirulatory as well as muscle, ligament, and tendon issues.)  We all learn that numbness can be somewhat relieved while in the midst of a ride by shifting, stretching, and removal and flexing of the fingers of the left hand during periodic intervals and right (w/o CC) while at a stop.  In general while touring on the C!4, your back should be relatively straight (at least, in the straight-aways) while leaning forward slightly at the torso relative to the speed of travel.  Mixing up leaning into curves and bending over the tank for short periods is helpful (and enjoyable) too.  Another common posture error, is the postioning of the hands on the grips:  If you haven't already, learn to have the wrist linear (or in an "overbite" grip) with the lower arm.  Additionally, a great feature on the C14 is the ability to easily adjust both the brake and clutch levers.  Unless you are over 6'2, or otherwise with large hands, you probably need to adjust the factory/dealer setting or incur even greater fatigue/numbness than necessary....take advanatage of this nice C14 feature. 

The biggest key, however, to long-range riding is relaxation: If you are tense, you are doomed to fatigue and numbness problems on a longer ride.  [BTW, a key to almost all sports and, at the risk of sounding philosophical, life is finding a state of relaxation while performing!!]  Your C14 may have the horsepower of twelve dozen horses but it isn't a horse.  I can't imagine too much call to tighten one's legs against her ribs (ahh, tank)....she's not going to buck-you... So, I infer that you may still be a bit tense on this thoroughbred.  (If you are having such numbness after only a day, or less than 500 miles, you almost certainly are too tense.)  Keeping the lower body and legs relaxed will also provide benefits to yor upper body right through to your wrists and hands.

Items mentioned herein, by thoughtful COG bloggers (or yourself), that tend to reduce the vibration include after-market, softer handle grips (absord vibration), handlebar risers (assuming you are over 6 feet), and throttle control devices (to free the right hand--but be careful).  Also, proper gloves.  (And, if you are foolish enough to be riding w/o gloves but writing here, please don't tell anyone.)  One last note, and again for the 6'+ riders: If you travel extensively on the Concours, invest in a taller windscreen...the extra 3 inches will be appreciated by you!!

One last comment related to relief of the symptoms:  Without going into the bio-mechanics, you relieve the pressure by rotating your right arm 180 degrees clockwise (left 180' counter) and taking your left (right) hand and pulling back against the four right-hand fingers while your arm is locked at the elbow.  An alternative is to rotate the arm and press the fingers back against a hard surface.  Alternatively, a good accupuncturist also can do the trick. (I wish that I could provide a diagram.)  This will open the blood flow and return the feeling to your fingers.  However, I'm afraid that if you are older with multi-day rides averaging 400+ miles per day, you will not escape the numbing feeling and even a loss of sensation in your thumbs (and other fingers) that will retun only after a week (or more) following the end of your extended ride.  This, regardless of your experience.

Take whatever you can from this well-intentioned writing for a fellow C14 enthusiast and a guy that has motored extensively in almost every condition known to mankind as well as all of the continents.  ...
 
Hi Ridestary, extensive posting there and a clearly well examined topic!

Only thing is, if it is largely posture that causes the numbness, how come my 2007 GTR didn't cause me hand numbness, yet the 2011 GTR does?
 
I have ridden all types of bikes for the past 40+ years, and even though riders don't like to admit it. The angle on these C-14 handlebars suck, especially if advice is to by risers, add softer grips, wear the right type of gloves, hold on with your knees, change your posture. All motorcycles have some hand pressure, but the angle of these stock bars are not meant for long rides. Don't get me wrong, I love this bike, I love the handling, styling, power, responsiveness, but I have had to change the seat (Corbin), add risers (helibars), thottle lock, and looking at changing, windshield,  adding murph's wedges, lowering pegs, phil's roadway pegs and changing the taillight out (brightness), all for some comfort and peace of mind. Some may not have these issue's, but a bunch of us do. I am 5'9" at 195lbs with short arms and inseam. I am also not going to spend $800 bucks on those adjustable handlebars.
:mad: :beerchug:
 
[/quote] Sadly, the C14 vibs are worse(more intense) than any bike I've ever owned.  If a test drive had been an option with this one, I would have never bought it.

[/quote]

Could not aggree more. Already looking ahead at some type of replacement down the road. 40,000 miles later...
 
domo said:
... can you hear me now?  Bend 'em!  It wasn't that hard.
Click to expand...

Did you bend yours? Do you have some pics to share? I agree that a slight bend on them to make them more parallel to each other would probably cure my issues, but haven't figured out a good way to bend them equally.
 
Yes.

No pics yet.

Have you checked to confirm that all aspects of size, range of movement etc. of your two arms are identical?  They're handlebars.  Sometimes you ride with one hand... saw a guy on his Harley with one leg.  Machining new final members, longer or bent or metalflake pink is cheaper than $800.
 
Domo,

  To be clear, what are you suggesting people try to bend?  I would think you are talking about the straight, aluminum rod section that the grips and lever assemblies mount to, but some may think you are talking about the stanchions.  I would seriously discourage anyone from trying to bend the stanchions.

  If you bend the round bar the grips are on, you will likely find the clutch and brake assembly clamps don't fit quite right anymore.  For this idea to work, I would think one would have to replace the rod part with longer versions, and bend them between the clamps and the stanchions.

  Either way, all this will accomplish is changing the angle to which you grab the grips.  It won't help with vibrations.  You're other idea of adding the gasket material may be worth exploring.  I had previously tried using some fairly thick rubber pads (cut from a blown out air bag off a semi trailer), but it didn't make any difference.  I speculated that unless I could also put some vibration absorbing washers under the bolt heads, the vibs would simply transmit through the bolts.  It was just an experiment that I didn't expect would help, but had to try.
 
Yes.

Simply considered, the stanchions present themselves as a point of attachment for anything you wish to put there, altered or fabricated/machined.  Not telling anybody to do anything not D.O.T. approved but if I were to make some of these to hang on the wall I'd start in the O condition, machine, bend then temper to 5 or 6.  But, I really don't have a lot to keep me busy... and I happen to have some "tools".

Not suggesting bending any cast part... but I would like to play with some if you're tripping over the stockers after going for the Big Buck Bars.  I might just turn them over and pour the voids full of neoprene... that should soak up some vibes!  You know, like that lead shot hammer out in the garage?

The final member I refer to is indeed the "round part" and I'm only talking 3 degrees and no, this won't address vibration... neither will the $800.00.

Just can't resist tightening down on those raskels, eh?  Gonna fly right off, ain't they?
 
Well, while I was out on a ride with Charlie and Dave on Sunday during the "Ride the Ribbon" event, Dave graciously offered to let me ride his 2010 C14, so I could compare vibrations.  It is my opinion that his bike was much smoother, with less vibrations.  His is completely stock, as it came out of the crate, except for 2" risers, including the original tires (which should be completely worn out by the time he gets home).

I experimented through the RPM range up to 9500, tried several different gears, and doing some roll on full throttle pulls in the lower gears into the triple digits.  On his bike, which has under 8K miles as I recall, I felt no real buzz / vibs in the pegs, the seat, or the gas tank, and very minor amount in his stock grips.  There was a noticeable buzz around the top center of the dash, the reservoir covers, the levers, and the outside tips of the mirrors, all around 5K.  His vibs came on a little below 4K, and peaked out right around 5K RPMs, then smoothed back out as the RPMs increased above 6K.  I'm guessing that's how most guys would describe their bikes that say theirs is smooth?

What was interesting was his comment right after he got off of my bike.  He said "Yours is vibrating everywhere except the grips!  You can feel it in the tank, the seat, everywhere."  As I told him, if I had not done the shim washer trick to the bar weights, the grips would still be buzzing like that too.

Although it just confirms what I already thought I knew, it does provide a little vindication to make me feel like I'm not just imagining it, and chasing a ghost (Thanks Dave!!).

I still need to find the cause and fix it though.  Next, I need to find some gauges and do the TB sync, and check the valve adjustment.

Now why did I buy a brand new bike again?  Oh yes, so I didn't have to work on my older bikes.  Thanks for absolutely no help on this one Mama Kawasaki.  :38:

One other interesting bit of information, Dave is getting consistently better fuel mileage then I do with mine, on the order of 5 MPG.

At first I just figured it would have to be due to riding style, but after talking with him, and watching him ride, I think more of it is because his bike is just 'tuned' better.
 
Hi All,
I just installed Phil's wedge from Murph kits (great product/great co.) I went on a 325 mi. day trip, in about 8 hours with no cramping. I use a cramp buster and a Thottlemeister to assist( but always did). I just couldn't believe how much of a difference these modest wedges make, but it is huge. For $80.00 no shipping or taxes, and about a half an hour to install, I think anyone having any hand discomfort should try them. RS
 
I have handlebar risers for sell over in the emporium if anyone wants to pick them up.  I took them off because I really didn't notice much of a difference with or without them.

Fred
 
I was reading Cycle World at lunch today ... think it was CW ... anyway, they had a piece on some bar end deals that the manufacturer said 'limited bar vibration 50 - 75%' ... or some such.

I don't know if this has been hashed out in this very long thread, but I believe the product is Vibranator.  This is from memory, which is not what it used to be ... but, there are other Google threads regarding this product. 

Check it out.
 
Took a 260 mile ride yesterday and discovered the hand numbing vibration at 80--90 mph, 3700-4000 rpm in my throttle hand.
Just through all 10 pages of this thread to discover NO simple solution.
Arrgh!
It appears searching the Vibranator web sight they don't have an application for our bike.
:'(
 
I also installed wedges and risers from Murph kits, I took a 200 mile trip with almost no cramping or numbness.    A little adjustment to make due to the change of height, angle and ergonomics position, but significantly improved my comfort and ride range.

I would recommend giving them a try for those with discomfort.  Murph even has a return policy on the risers if you are not happy with them.

 
I just re-installed Phils Wedges on the stock bar height this morning and removed Murphs risers then went on a 300 mile day ride.  That will be the last time I make any more mod's to the bars.  The Wedges correct everything for me.  No risers just the wedges-no discomfort and perfect fit with the small change in grip angle and pull back.  Perfection for me :beerchug:
 
Ok.
I just received my wedges from Murph with the extra bolts. Took the effort to hand write instructions on where the longer bolts go, but..... DOOH!  :-\
No instructions on the washer orientation!
This ain't rocket science, but does the seated angle go in the opposite direction of the wedge angle?
Maybe it's just me.  :-[
Anybody post the instructions, or got a pic?
 
Go to Murph's website, click on the "Knowledge Base" link(lower left of home page under "Information"). Click on the "C14 Handlebar Wedges" link for installation instructions.
 
Took my first ride today with the wedges installed. Covered about 50 miles in about an hour. Although they didn't completely solve my hand numbness issue, the problem was significantly less. I'll get in some longer rides in the coming couple of weeks when I've got some more time, but so far they seem like a pretty good investment.

I'm resisting getting risers as I think they'll put me too upright and have to have some effect on handling and body position during more aggressive riding. I'm thinking maybe Grip Puppies, or something similar, are in my future.
 
Well I've made the decision to get rid of the 2011 GTR. I can't ride it without the hands going numb from the vibrations, I get no enjoyment whatsoever from riding it and it's sitting in the garage annoying me.

I'm going back to the dealer I bought it from. I know I'm going to have to take a massive hit on the price of it, I don't care, it's no use to me here.

F£(k you Kawasaki for not admitting there is a problem. F£(k you Kawasaki for costing me a fortune on services in Kawasaki dealers and leaving me to pay for them myself even though the bike is only 6 months old. A final F£(k you Kawasaki, that's three brand new Kawasaki bikes I've bought in the last 5 years (Z14 and two GTR's) and it's the last Kawasaki I'll ever buy.

I hope the rest of the guys on here find ways of making their bikes rideable, I think it's a disgrace that Kawasaki make this fab looking bike and then ruin it by not engineering it correctly.

Best of luck to all, thanks for the input to try solve the vibration.

I leave with the final note to anyone from Kawasaki that is reading this. If my job ever investigates getting the GTR for the motor pool, I'll show procurement the emails from Kawasaki saying that the vibration is 'normal'.
 
Stig, Not everyone is experiencing the problems you mention. I have a 2009 GTR with Heli Bar risers, ThrottleMeister bar ends and Throttle Rocker and don't have ANY problems with hand numbness. Your use of expletives toward Mother Kaw is really unnecessary. You may not be ergonomically suited to the bike or may in fact have a poor manufacturing example? However, to wish us rubes good luck is rather condescending and unnecessary. Just go and get what suits you. I think many of us have bought bikes that just don't seem to fit right no matter what we do. Yes, it is costly but manufacturers cannot please everybody universally. I have owned about 80 motorcycles in 47 years of riding and my 2009 GTR is one of the finest bikes I have ever owned (only after I got the Corbin saddle  and the other farkles I mentioned ;)). Anyway, hope you find something that makes riding fun again. Bob
 
Frankly after seeing many of your threads, I'm surprised you kept the bike this long.  Something is wrong with your bike or it just isn't suited for you.
My 2011 C14 is the smoothest motorcycle I've ever ridden and is generally considered on of the smoothest ST bikes in production. 
Good luck!
 
Bob, my apologies if you think my post is condescending, they were genuine thanks to those who tried to help me, and the good luck was directed at those whos bikes still vibrate! I know not everyone has the same problem, but there are a good number who are still adding farkles to try solve their vibrations.

My biggest issue with this bike Bob is that I had the 2008 model GTR and I loved it. No vibrations, toured Europe twice without a bother. Was so looking forward to owning the 2011 bike with the new extras so spent a little more than I needed to. I bitterly regret the decision to buy the 2011 model. For Kawasaki to deny there is a problem with my bike is just a large corporation completely disregarding an average Joe that spent hard earned bucks buying Kwaks over the last few years.

I loved the Z14, I loved my 2008 GT14, but this 2011 bike is a disaster and I think the real measure of a company is to see what they do when it goes wrong. Kawasaki failed miserably by denying the vibration they agree is there actually causes a problem.
 
No apologies needed. Your frustration is justified and you are not alone. I could not be happier for those that have smooth C-14's. Unfortunately not all of them are. Kawi needs to man up and address this issue. My guess is it's something internally with the engine and would cost them too much to fix.
 
Stig, I share your frustration, and completely understand your decision to dump the bike.  I've been trying to avoid that same conclusion myself, because I really do love the bike.  In fact, within the first couple of weeks of ownership, the salesman I bought it from suggested that very thing.

I plan to do a TB sync and valve adjust during the off season, and if that doesn't help, I may have to go shopping.  Either that, or pull and weigh the pistons. 

I seem to average around 10K miles of riding per year, so why should one suffer whenever the fun stuff begins (twisties, above 4K RPM)?

Good luck in your search, and as Tom said, no need for apologies.  Those of us who have a vibrating bike completely understood.
 
Stig ... I feel your frustration, m'friend.  I had similar (but unrelated) experiences with the 1st FJR that came out. 

I spent a great deal of time, effort and money trying to make it comfortable for me to ride.  I know many who love the FJR, but I am not one of them.  I may have had the bike 2 years ... but, think I had less than 5K miles on it when I sold it.  Yes, I got hammered ... but, I never looed back or had any regretes for getting rid of the bike.

I hope your next ride will work well ror you,

 
You all are scaring me. I'm planning on picking up a new 2011 Connie this week. Should this vibration thing scare me off? Does all the 2011 vibrate like this? What to do?
 
Only time I have a problem is if I sleep too long on one arm or the other. Goes away after about 15 minutes. Not gonna brag about distance or speed (cuz I got plenty of both 8p) but, I have no issues. OEM risers and grips. LUV my 09 C14!!! Good luck to y'all...
 
Hi Timbo,

The vibration starts at 4,000rpm and gets worse up to 8,000rpm. It will happen in any gear, and is more noticeable in Eco map.

Walk away from it if the bike vibrates. I have my 2011 GTR since April and made a call to the dealer today to get him to take it back. It's already cost me money by Kawasaki not covering the costs of trying to solve it. They say the bike vibrates, but not enough to worry about......

Best of luck with the investigating!
 
I do notice some annoying vibration above about 4k RPM, but my hand numbness seemed to be more from wrist angle than the buzziness. I installed wedges (and a Corbin seat which lowered me a tad) and now that numbness issue is MUCH improved (90%???). I have one other tweak to try that I hope will completely resolve the numbness issue, but I'm NOT going with risers.

It seems that my vibration MIGHT be a little more noticable now after putting 5k miles on my '11, but I'm not sure if it's getting worse or if you guys have just made me think about it more.  :))
 
Timbo said:
Hold it 4000 or just thru the gears and see how it feels when going past 4k?
Click to expand...

Timbo, go back and read post #136, as I think it explains what to expect on a *normal* bike.  I would have posted the link, but with the server name change, it would be broken in a week when things change back.
 
C1xRider said:
Well, while I was out on a ride with Charlie and Dave on Sunday during the "Ride the Ribbon" event, Dave graciously offered to let me ride his 2010 C14, so I could compare vibrations.  It is my opinion that his bike was much smoother, with less vibrations.  His is completely stock, as it came out of the crate, except for 2" risers, including the original tires (which should be completely worn out by the time he gets home).

I experimented through the RPM range up to 9500, tried several different gears, and doing some roll on full throttle pulls in the lower gears into the triple digits.  On his bike, which has under 8K miles as I recall, I felt no real buzz / vibs in the pegs, the seat, or the gas tank, and very minor amount in his stock grips.  There was a noticeable buzz around the top center of the dash, the reservoir covers, the levers, and the outside tips of the mirrors, all around 5K.  His vibs came on a little below 4K, and peaked out right around 5K RPMs, then smoothed back out as the RPMs increased above 6K.  I'm guessing that's how most guys would describe their bikes that say theirs is smooth?

What was interesting was his comment right after he got off of my bike.  He said "Yours is vibrating everywhere except the grips!  You can feel it in the tank, the seat, everywhere."  As I told him, if I had not done the shim washer trick to the bar weights, the grips would still be buzzing like that too.

Although it just confirms what I already thought I knew, it does provide a little vindication to make me feel like I'm not just imagining it, and chasing a ghost (Thanks Dave!!).

I still need to find the cause and fix it though.  Next, I need to find some gauges and do the TB sync, and check the valve adjustment.

Now why did I buy a brand new bike again?  Oh yes, so I didn't have to work on my older bikes.  Thanks for absolutely no help on this one Mama Kawasaki.  :38:

One other interesting bit of information, Dave is getting consistently better fuel mileage then I do with mine, on the order of 5 MPG.

At first I just figured it would have to be due to riding style, but after talking with him, and watching him ride, I think more of it is because his bike is just 'tuned' better.
Click to expand...

CI, what were the fuel consumption numbers?

Thanks
 
Well I got back on to the dealer and he made me an offer to buy the bike back off me. This dealer is probably the most honest dealer I've ever met and I've known him for years.

He said he'll give me Eur11k for the bike. They retail at 16k here. Mine is 6 months old and has 5,000kms on it. It's a massive hit to take but the rationale behind it is that he could very easily be left with it till next year before someone buys it. This is true, as in Ireland, nobody buys bikes at this time of the year. So effectively, he'll be selling a 2011 bike in 2012 next year. I've stuck it up as a private sale to see if there's any takers but I'd say I'm going to have to take the 11k.

It sucks bigtime and leaves a really bad impression of Kawasaki. Nothing I can do, can't afford to take a law suit against Kawasaki, and bike is pissing me off sitting in the garage not being used because of the vibrations.  :'(
 
Chuck said:
C1, what were the fuel consumption numbers?
Thanks
Click to expand...

For my bike?  Mine is pretty consistently getting 39MPG to 42MPG on E10, and 45MPG or a better (up to 48MPG I think) with non-Ethanol.  Steve was bragging about getting 50+MPG, but mainly I remember him saying 55MPG a lot.

I haven't updated my mileage spreadsheet with all the numbers from this summer yet.  I have a pile of receipts waiting for me when I get ambitious.  After the first 12,170 miles, my average for the C14 was 39.13MPG, with lowest for a tank being 32.6MPG and a highest 49.1MPG.  I don't expect that to change much.
 
The Stig said:
Well I got back on to the dealer and he made me an offer to buy the bike back off me. This dealer is probably the most honest dealer I've ever met and I've known him for years.

He said he'll give me Eur11k for the bike. They retail at 16k here. Mine is 6 months old and has 5,000kms on it. It's a massive hit to take but the rationale behind it is that he could very easily be left with it till next year before someone buys it. This is true, as in Ireland, nobody buys bikes at this time of the year. So effectively, he'll be selling a 2011 bike in 2012 next year. I've stuck it up as a private sale to see if there's any takers but I'd say I'm going to have to take the 11k.

It sucks bigtime and leaves a really bad impression of Kawasaki. Nothing I can do, can't afford to take a law suit against Kawasaki, and bike is pissing me off sitting in the garage not being used because of the vibrations.  :'(
Click to expand...

Ouch!  That is a big hit.  Have you considered just sitting on it until spring?  I think that's what I would do.  Buy a cheap nylon cover for the bike, so I didn't have to look at it, and hide it in back of the garage until spring.

I had another Kawi warranty "experience" this week.  I've been riding all summer, pretty much every day, and the bike starts just fine.  Parked it for 2 days (rain), then Wednesday I turned on the ignition and was greeted by a low battery warning.  Tried to start it, and not enough juice to do anything.  Had to jump start it.  In those 2 days off, the temperature inside the garage had dropped by 10 degrees F (55F Wednesday morning).

Rode about 80 miles Wednesday, and for the 3 times I started the bike, each time I had the feeling it just barely started.  Volt meter on display showed it was charging (14.0V to 14.3V).  However, each time it would be down below 12V before trying to restart it.

Called the dealer that did the brake rotor warranty work, and they squeezed it in for me on Thursday.  After the Service Adviser got off the phone with Kawi support, he was a bit ticked at them for the ridiculous testing they required.  The Service Adviser told me that the required tests didn't even properly load test the battery, and that my battery probably would not fail the test based on my description of events.  They did the tests anyway.

It seems the required Kawasaki test for a battery to be replaced under warranty is designed to only fail if the battery will not take a charge.  Needless to say, if the battery just doesn't like the cold, like mine, but will accept a charge, it will not fail the test.

So, warranty claim for a 2 year old battery that will not hold a charge when sitting for 2 or more days at temps between 55F and 60F : DENIED.
 
Forgot to mention, when I was picking up my bike from the shop, I asked the Service Adviser if they were doing maintenance on any of the new Police C14 bikes, and he said they had one in the shop right now for excessive vibrations.  ???

He stayed late so I could get my bike, and I didn't want to keep him any longer, but I'll have to ask him more about it next time I'm in there.
 
You are kidding me!! Oh my God, if the Police ones are being returned for excessive vibrations then Kawasaki HAVE to take notice!!
 
I have been reading most of the thread on hand numbness. I bought a left over 2009 C14 ABS and have about 6K miles on it in the last 11 months. I didn't even think about vibration until reading this thread and then realized that I typically do not operate the bike in the 3800-4200 range because there is some inherent vibration. I have owned about 80 motorcycles in 47 years of riding and this is the best bike I have ever owned. I just intuitively stay out of the above-mentioned rpm range and do not have any signicant issues with vibration. I can't understand what the big deal is because we have 6 gears and can vary the rpm to suit our tolerance for any inherent vibes? Bob
 
The problem is that after paying Eur16,000 for a bike there should be no vibration at all! You shouldn't have to avoid any part of the rev range. The biggest issue I have with it is that the vibration is exactly at cruising speed on the motorway here. So if I'm covering distance on a motorway or doing a commute my hands go numb.

Any 'spirited' riding at all is usually in that range and it takes the enjoyment out of it.  :'(



AstroBob said:
I have been reading most of the thread on hand numbness. I bought a left over 2009 C14 ABS and have about 6K miles on it in the last 11 months. I didn't even think about vibration until reading this thread and then realized that I typically do not operate the bike in the 3800-4200 range because there is some inherent vibration. I have owned about 80 motorcycles in 47 years of riding and this is the best bike I have ever owned. I just intuitively stay out of the above-mentioned rpm range and do not have any signicant issues with vibration. I can't understand what the big deal is because we have 6 gears and can vary the rpm to suit our tolerance for any inherent vibes? Bob
Click to expand...
 
Stig, Here in Florida/Georgia, we typically use 5-9K for spirited riding and does it ever get spirited ;D Of course we cannot sustain these higher rpms on the roadways without going to jail and can only use them in short bursts. You on the other hand have some access to a few countries where you can essentially go as fast as you want. I can see where it would be frustrating to have the vibration at a normal cruise speed. I do notice that I have to go higher or lower in my shifts to stay out of the buzzier range. I have experienced this on many of my motorcycles and it is something that I have just worked around without getting too upset. Obviously, it is not something that is working for you and I guess you will have to take that large financial hit and get something more to your liking. Much good luck in finding something that is more pleasant. Bob

The Stig said:
The problem is that after paying Eur16,000 for a bike there should be no vibration at all! You shouldn't have to avoid any part of the rev range. The biggest issue I have with it is that the vibration is exactly at cruising speed on the motorway here. So if I'm covering distance on a motorway or doing a commute my hands go numb.

Any 'spirited' riding at all is usually in that range and it takes the enjoyment out of it.  :'(



AstroBob said:
I have been reading most of the thread on hand numbness. I bought a left over 2009 C14 ABS and have about 6K miles on it in the last 11 months. I didn't even think about vibration until reading this thread and then realized that I typically do not operate the bike in the 3800-4200 range because there is some inherent vibration. I have owned about 80 motorcycles in 47 years of riding and this is the best bike I have ever owned. I just intuitively stay out of the above-mentioned rpm range and do not have any signicant issues with vibration. I can't understand what the big deal is because we have 6 gears and can vary the rpm to suit our tolerance for any inherent vibes? Bob
Click to expand...
Click to expand...
 
On page 11 I posted the link for Vibranator. These are bar end inserts, and they will work if your bars are hollow at the end. If they are like ZX14 clipon bars, then they aren't hollow.

I put a set for 7/8" ID bars on my ZX14, and the horrendous vibration was reduced by at least 80%. My hands never go numb anymore.

Of course, switch to an LSL top clamp and real handlebars helped, and hanging a gps on the left lever perch and the XM antenna on the right added weight to the bar ends also, which helped dampen vibration.

But all of us in the ZX14 world know about buzzy handgrips. I'm just lucky that once I put a real handlebar on, I could but the Vibranator units in.

If the C14 bar ends are solid with a tapped hole for the bar end, you might consider having a machinist bore the end plug out to 7/8" ID and then you have enough bar ID and length to put the tuned rod unit in.

It really does work.
 
AstroBob said:
I have been reading most of the thread on hand numbness. I bought a left over 2009 C14 ABS and have about 6K miles on it in the last 11 months. I didn't even think about vibration until reading this thread and then realized that I typically do not operate the bike in the 3800-4200 range because there is some inherent vibration. I have owned about 80 motorcycles in 47 years of riding and this is the best bike I have ever owned. I just intuitively stay out of the above-mentioned rpm range and do not have any signicant issues with vibration. I can't understand what the big deal is because we have 6 gears and can vary the rpm to suit our tolerance for any inherent vibes? Bob
Click to expand...

If you read all the posts, you should have found that some bikes vibrate more than others.  Sounds like yours doesn't, so congrats to you.

Mine actually starts above 3K, but really kicks in by 4K, and does it all the way to the red line.  It is my bike, as I've ridden another and it did not do it.  Stig owned a 2008 that did not have this problem, but his 2011 does.

Given that information, I don't understand the point of your post.  Just because I have 6 gears, doesn't mean I should have to limit my RPM range to below 3K in all gears, or suffer no feeling in my hands after a few minutes of riding above that RPM.

If it wasn't for the washer mod to shim out the bar weights, mine would still be unbearable.
 
Privateer said:
On page 11 I posted the link for Vibranator. These are bar end inserts, and they will work if your bars are hollow at the end. If they are like ZX14 clipon bars, then they aren't hollow.

I put a set for 7/8" ID bars on my ZX14, and the horrendous vibration was reduced by at least 80%. My hands never go numb anymore.

Of course, switch to an LSL top clamp and real handlebars helped, and hanging a gps on the left lever perch and the XM antenna on the right added weight to the bar ends also, which helped dampen vibration.

But all of us in the ZX14 world know about buzzy handgrips. I'm just lucky that once I put a real handlebar on, I could but the Vibranator units in.

If the C14 bar ends are solid with a tapped hole for the bar end, you might consider having a machinist bore the end plug out to 7/8" ID and then you have enough bar ID and length to put the tuned rod unit in.

It really does work.
Click to expand...

My profile configuration only has this thread at 4 pages.  ;)

The C14 effectively has solid bars, with a threaded hole for the bar weight.  I looked over the Vibranator web site when you posted that, but didn't see an application for the C14, let alone any Kawasaki.
 
I have the numbness on my mountain bike, KLR, and C14. Loosening the Velcro on my gloves helped a lot, but the posting on the specific nerve is right on. I put o-rings in the throttle crack. It takes some trial-and-error to ensure that the rings I picked do not hold much at all at low speeds i.e. "creep" so quickly it reduces speed consistently, that they move "bleed" at medium throttle subtlely, and holds almost all the time while at 75+.  am talking about one ring combination that covers all conditions.  I am surprised at how easy it is to get used to. I know can remove my hand without a sudden down-speed, which allows me to move my hands and solves the problem. Being able to lay the hand with fingers atop the levers helps allot, with n having to grip at all until a speed hange is required.  I ride no hands a lot while on the freeway. The stability of the Connie is absolutely fantastic, as I thought nothing was more stable than the KLR. I just think about where the bike should b ad Connie goes there. I just love it when my girl knows how I like to ride her! :))
 
C1xRider said:
My profile configuration only has this thread at 4 pages.  ;)

The C14 effectively has solid bars, with a threaded hole for the bar weight.  I looked over the Vibranator web site when you posted that, but didn't see an application for the C14, let alone any Kawasaki.
Click to expand...

They don't list anything specific to a Kawasaki, but the 7/8" ID generic unit works in regular handlebars, like LSL or Spiegler bars.

If I get a 2012 C14, the bars are coming off, and being replaced with hollow tube. Easy to do.

I'm not going from a ZX14 that I removed all buzzyness from to a ZG1400 just to get numb hands back again. Heh.

Muzzy makes a set of plates which bolt under your risers, to give extra height. What if you replaced the middle plate (use all three) with high density rubber of the same thickness and cut to the same shape. Would that attenuate the buzz, or would the plates themselves help to do that. This is something else I'd probably do (risers) anyway.
 
Try Murphs heavy bar end weights. They fit the C10 and C14.
I use a ThrottleMeister Heavy on mine, but then I don't find the buzz at around 4k all that irritating even without them.
Compared to my C10 it's as smooth as glass.

Every bike I have ever owned, new or used, has always required some fine tuning to make it mine.
Some it was ergos, some it was tuning out a vibe, some it was handling, others it was performance.
I guess if you are expecting the PERFECT BIKE for you then you are doomed to perpetual disappointment.

First I would fit the heavy bar end weights, then fit foam or Gel grips, then try loosening & re-torquing the engine mount bolts.
If none of that worked I would consider changing my riding position/stance/style to see if that helps.
Only if I couldn't change the bike or change me would i consider getting rid of the bike.

Only ever happened once. It was a Honda CB750F2 and it has to have been the most BORING bike I have ever owned.
It was so bland and characterless I hated it. Wasn't good at anything but was adequate at everything.
Replaced it with a Z1300/6 which guzzled gas and didn't corner that well but by jiminy it fair gave me the horn!!  :-*  :)
 
Bar end weights may be enough for the ZG1400, it may be less buzzy than the ZX14.

I had super heavy Throttlemeisters on (I ordered them extra heavy) and they helped on my ZX14 some. But once I put the Vibranator in, instead of just bar end weights, the buzz was completely gone. They have heavy bar ends built into them, too.

I'm guessing my first mod will be Muzzy riser plates and heavy bar ends, and if that works or almost works, I'll cut high density rubber sheet to replace the middle plate and see what that does.

Between me and my friend the machinist, if we have to, I can just replace the handlebars with hollow ones and put Vibranators in, if it comes to that. Guess I better attend a Ticket2Ride next Spring and ride the 2012 C14 and see how buzzy it is.
 
Hey guys, I am new here and just read this whole thread.
There is a simple solution for your problems but it's expensive.
Cruise control, it allows you to take one hand off at a time and exercise it till the numbness goes away.
If it had not come standard on the bike that I ride I would have given up this hobby years ago.
It's too bad the C-14 does not have it as standard equipment.
I use it on all rides from one hour to 12 hours. I only use it for reliving my hand pressure on the bars, for when I use it for speed control on the freeways I just get bored and start to fall asleep.
And all this talk about vibrations, I think it's the pressure on the hand and nothing to do with vibrations that causes numbness. But I must admit that my bike has no vibration problem so what do I know.
I was looking at a new C-14 today but all this talk about vibrations, now I am not so sure.
The salesman said that maybe the 2012 model could maybe have cruise but he just said maybe.
 
Although cruise control would help on the highway. IMO, it isn't a solution. It will only mask the problem that some folk experience. I rarely use my CC off the hi-way. And I do not travel much on the hi-way. So vibration would still be felt the majority of the time. On back (non hi-way) roads. I try to limit how long I ride without both hands on the bars for safety reasons. Too many things can pop up for me to want to get in the habit of using CC too often. (again, my opinion)
Now for what it's worth, I didn't find my particular C14 to have much vibration. Actually it was one of the better bikes I've owned. But I can sympathize with owners who do have them. Because not all bikes are assembled exactly the same. And some bikes have different quirks and problems that others do not experience. I also think that CC is very helpful on the hi-way. But as a solution to a motorcycles vibration, I disagree. Helpful yes. But not the solution IMO.
 
My 2 pennies worth. I have found that simply realxing my arms and shoulders specially on the Highway helps with the numbness issues. also different positions help out too. I have experienced that if I tense up for a long period of time both hands will get numb, vibration or not and mostly highway not when I am getting on or backing off the throttle a lot, like in the back roads. This has probably already been addressed, but may have been forgotten along the way.
Coming off a Harley the vibration on the Connie is zero when you comapre the two BTW.
 
Cap'n Bob said:
Although cruise control would help on the highway. IMO, it isn't a solution. It will only mask the problem that some folk experience. I rarely use my CC off the hi-way. And I do not travel much on the hi-way. So vibration would still be felt the majority of the time. On back (non hi-way) roads. I try to limit how long I ride without both hands on the bars for safety reasons. Too many things can pop up for me to want to get in the habit of using CC too often. (again, my opinion)
Now for what it's worth, I didn't find my particular C14 to have much vibration. Actually it was one of the better bikes I've owned. But I can sympathize with owners who do have them. Because not all bikes are assembled exactly the same. And some bikes have different quirks and problems that others do not experience. I also think that CC is very helpful on the hi-way. But as a solution to a motorcycles vibration, I disagree. Helpful yes. But not the solution IMO.
Click to expand...

Bob, what make cruise control do you have installed?

Anyone, suggestions ?
 
Off Topic: Sorry!


I went with McCruise. Very expensive. But a well designed, pretty much plug and play system for your model motorcycle. It has pretty much been problem free. The one problem I had, I caused with my own stupidity making adjustments for no reason. McCruise customer service got me back on track very quickly. They quickly went through and figured out what I did and didn't realize. This was on a phone call from from down under on the other side of the world. My wife thought it was a joke and hung up the first time. Thankfully they called right back. I cannot recomend them enough. But like I said, they are expensive.
 
Wild_Bill said:
I think I read somewhere that Murph is going to start selling Phil's wedges

Bill
Click to expand...

OK, now this is wierd. I bought the wedges and the risers. My hands are more comfortable with both, but I don't like it with the wedges. Something aesthetically wrong with it to me. That and the fact that the control hoses are stretched awefully tight and that worries me. I wish they made wedges that just brought the bars back without bringing them in!
 
Ok. I just couldn't take the vibrations anymore.  Now keep in mind I do believe there is merit to some folks who talk about ergonomics and ride position.  Additionally, grip strength and pressing on that nerve in the hand certainly can cause problems.  However, this buzzing in the whole bike is terrible.  Now I have worked around military helicopters for years.  In the OH-58 (Bell 206) if there is a high frequency buzz it will put your feet to sleep.  In the CH-47 Chinook, when a hydraulic pump is going bad it can have a high-speed high freq hum that I have been told can work-harden metal. And the UH-60 high speed shaft can produce an audible high freq hum which cannot be good.  With all that said this buzz I have in my bike is equivalent to any one of the buzzes I have felt or heard in the air frames.  I can tell you that flying the OH-58 with your feet on the pedals will soon make you think you no longer have toes.  This is what the buzz in my Connie is like.

Today I took it to the dealer and said figure it out or take it back.  The mechanic took that a bit humorous and said it cannot be that bad.  I took him out to the bike, sitting on the side stand, in neutral, ran it up to an RPM over 3,700 and he quickly changed his tune.  He said he didn't know what it was, but he knows that it is not right.  He was even more concerned because I have the heaviest bar end weights I could find.  Further, I am surprised my feet do not fall asleep because I felt the pegs at that rpm and that were buzzing away.

Whatever it is is in the whole frame.  The strange thing is that it is not manifested in the mirrors like a previous bike I had.

I drop the bike off tomorrow for the 4,000 mile service and for him to figure out what is going on.  It might just get left there as a trade for a 2012 but I would hate to have the same problem again with another brand new bike.

My cent and a half.
Fred
 
My hands are 100% better from two things. First the wedges.  It took a few miles to get comfortable with the narrower bar, but after that, no problem.'

Second was a set of gloves. I did some searching and the hand numbness can be caused by pressure or vibration on a nerve in the middle of the palm. The Olympia brand gloves (model 452) have a thin piece of gel in the perfect spot for me.  Actually, the glove may be mor eimportant than the wedges since the glove helped on all of my bikes.
 
ACR_SCOUT said:
Ok. I just couldn't take the vibrations anymore.  Now keep in mind I do believe there is merit to some folks who talk about ergonomics and ride position.  Additionally, grip strength and pressing on that nerve in the hand certainly can cause problems.  However, this buzzing in the whole bike is terrible.  Now I have worked around military helicopters for years.  In the OH-58 (Bell 206) if there is a high frequency buzz it will put your feet to sleep.  In the CH-47 Chinook, when a hydraulic pump is going bad it can have a high-speed high freq hum that I have been told can work-harden metal. And the UH-60 high speed shaft can produce an audible high freq hum which cannot be good.  With all that said this buzz I have in my bike is equivalent to any one of the buzzes I have felt or heard in the air frames.  I can tell you that flying the OH-58 with your feet on the pedals will soon make you think you no longer have toes.  This is what the buzz in my Connie is like.

Today I took it to the dealer and said figure it out or take it back.  The mechanic took that a bit humorous and said it cannot be that bad.  I took him out to the bike, sitting on the side stand, in neutral, ran it up to an RPM over 3,700 and he quickly changed his tune.  He said he didn't know what it was, but he knows that it is not right.  He was even more concerned because I have the heaviest bar end weights I could find.  Further, I am surprised my feet do not fall asleep because I felt the pegs at that rpm and that were buzzing away.

Whatever it is is in the whole frame.  The strange thing is that it is not manifested in the mirrors like a previous bike I had.

I drop the bike off tomorrow for the 4,000 mile service and for him to figure out what is going on.  It might just get left there as a trade for a 2012 but I would hate to have the same problem again with another brand new bike.

My cent and a half.
Fred
Click to expand...

Your description matches mine for my bike.  The whole bike is buzzing at a high frequency, and if I put any more pressure on the foot pegs then absolutely necessary, while holding the RPM's above 4K, I'm pretty sure the bottoms of my feet will go to sleep.  The buzz is also in the tank, seat, bars, and the mirrors.

I will be very interested to hear if your dealer can actually fix it, or if they are just able to reduce it a little and call it good.

A valve adjust and a TB sync are the only 2 things left on my list to try (short of driving it into a wall), but I just don't have the time to do either right now, and probably wont now until early spring (bike will be parked till then though).

Please be sure to post here what they try, and if they determine what actually improves things for you (hoping something does).
 
C1xRider said:
Your description matches mine for my bike.  The whole bike is buzzing at a high frequency, and if I put any more pressure on the foot pegs then absolutely necessary, while holding the RPM's above 4K, I'm pretty sure the bottoms of my feet will go to sleep.  The buzz is also in the tank, seat, bars, and the mirrors.

I will be very interested to hear if your dealer can actually fix it, or if they are just able to reduce it a little and call it good.

A valve adjust and a TB sync are the only 2 things left on my list to try (short of driving it into a wall), but I just don't have the time to do either right now, and probably wont now until early spring (bike will be parked till then though).

Please be sure to post here what they try, and if they determine what actually improves things for you (hoping something does).
Click to expand...

I will be sure to report back here.  Unfortunately if they cannot figure it out I am likely to get rid of the bike.  If I do get rid of the bike I am torn between trying out a 2012 Connie and moving on to perhaps a BMW.  I even have thoughts of giving up riding all together.  I had such high hopes for this bike.  I happen to think it is the perfect fit for me, my style, it's capabilities, and the price.  I know I will miss it.  I actually had to drive my car to work this morning and was disappointed.

Just one person's experience.

Fred
 
I'm getting rid of mine tomorrow. Dropping it to the dealer tomorrow evening and taking a 5K hit in the pocket. Worst decision I ever made was to 'upgrade' the 2008 bike to the 2011 bike.

Kawasaki have a lot to answer for with this bike. I'd say that if they do recognise it internally, it won't be announced and they will simply engineer the vibration out of the bike for the next production run.

Eur5000 loss over five months with five thousand kms on the clock. An expensive lesson I'll never make the mistake of doing again. I was a loyal Kawasaki customer with two brand new GTRs and a brand new ZZR1400 bought.

The 2011 GTR is the last Kawasaki I'll ever buy.
 
ACR_SCOUT said:
Ok. I just couldn't take the vibrations anymore.  Now keep in mind I do believe there is merit to some folks who talk about ergonomics and ride position.  Additionally, grip strength and pressing on that nerve in the hand certainly can cause problems.  However, this buzzing in the whole bike is terrible.  Now I have worked around military helicopters for years.  In the OH-58 (Bell 206) if there is a high frequency buzz it will put your feet to sleep.  In the CH-47 Chinook, when a hydraulic pump is going bad it can have a high-speed high freq hum that I have been told can work-harden metal. And the UH-60 high speed shaft can produce an audible high freq hum which cannot be good.  With all that said this buzz I have in my bike is equivalent to any one of the buzzes I have felt or heard in the air frames.  I can tell you that flying the OH-58 with your feet on the pedals will soon make you think you no longer have toes.  This is what the buzz in my Connie is like.

Today I took it to the dealer and said figure it out or take it back.  The mechanic took that a bit humorous and said it cannot be that bad.  I took him out to the bike, sitting on the side stand, in neutral, ran it up to an RPM over 3,700 and he quickly changed his tune.  He said he didn't know what it was, but he knows that it is not right.  He was even more concerned because I have the heaviest bar end weights I could find.  Further, I am surprised my feet do not fall asleep because I felt the pegs at that rpm and that were buzzing away.

Whatever it is is in the whole frame.  The strange thing is that it is not manifested in the mirrors like a previous bike I had.

I drop the bike off tomorrow for the 4,000 mile service and for him to figure out what is going on.  It might just get left there as a trade for a 2012 but I would hate to have the same problem again with another brand new bike.

My cent and a half.
Fred
Click to expand...

Ok, got the bike back tonight.  The service manager said he has call Kawasaki who stated that there has not been any other official complaints filed for vibrations or buzzing.  GREAT My Complaint Log # is 697135.

The service manager wants me to ride it to see if anything they did changed it any.  Nothing is different, exact same buzz immediately noticeable at 3700 RPM.

The reported actions taken.  Steering head loose, they tighten.
Checked and re-torqued engine bolts
Checked and re-torqued header bolts
Checked security of exhaust

I brought up the idea of the TB Sync.  Although he did not immediately discount the idea he did say that 3,700 RPMs is kind of high.  If I understood him right, he said the throttle body would be fully open at the point.  I am certainly going to guess that he didn't mean the throttle is all the way open.

Although not recorded on the sheet, it seems to me that it idled a bit better that normal. Also something I noticed when I first got the bike, you could hear the engine pulse (not a lot, very faint) at the same rate the turn signals flashed when they were on. I discounted it as something weird but noticed it almost every time I had the turn signals on at a light or something.  Well I specifically noticed that it is not doing that now.  I will check that out again tomorrow.  Just something strange.

Fred
 
ACR_SCOUT said:
ACR_SCOUT said:
  The service manager said he has call Kawasaki who stated that there has not been any other official complaints filed for vibrations or buzzing.  GREAT My Complaint Log # is 697135.
Click to expand...

Pardon me while I call complete BS - personally logged a complaint on mine in 2007. FYI I had the valves adjusted and the throttle bodies sync'ed and it did not change a thing. Over 40,000 miles on it now, may run it for one or two more seasons then switching brands. I could not just take it in the shorts on a new Motorcycle.
Click to expand...
 
I wonder how many complaints it takes before Kawi CS acknowledges they have received even one.

I've also complained directly to Kawi Customer Service and asked them to add the complaint with my VIN number log.  Also my dealer. contacted them about it on my behalf (which I would consider to be a complaint).

Maybe it takes litigation before a complaint actually registers in their system as a complaint.  ::)
 
As Tom says, that response about nobody else reporting a fault is a load of crap!!

I logged my complaint with the main dealer in Dublin within a week of getting the bike back in April. I then logged the same complaint with the dealer in Northern Ireland. Both entered the issue on the Kawasaki 'intranet' log of reported faults.

As far as I'm concerned that in itself is a recognition that there IS a problem and Kwak are ignoring it.

Big international company -v- small individual biker. Only one winner there.....
 
The Stig said:
As Tom says, that response about nobody else reporting a fault is a load of crap!!

I logged my complaint with the main dealer in Dublin within a week of getting the bike back in April. I then logged the same complaint with the dealer in Northern Ireland. Both entered the issue on the Kawasaki 'intranet' log of reported faults.

As far as I'm concerned that in itself is a recognition that there IS a problem and Kwak are ignoring it.

Big international company -v- small individual biker. Only one winner there.....
Click to expand...

Winner is? The little man via class action.  >:D
 
Well, I'm back having deposited the bike at the dealer. I am bike-less for the first time in over ten years  :mad: One is not amused....

When riding it to the dealer 150 miles from where I am, I found that the vibration disappears at 7,000rpm in 6th gear. I'll let you guys work out the actual velocity there....... Oh and that emptied the tank in 150 miles too....

Gonna wait till the new year to see what the market brings, the FJ is due a major remodel, Triumph are due a new tourer and maybe Honda will pull something out of the bag.  It certainly won't be a Kawasaki tho. Sickened.

Ride safe all, I'll dip in every now and then to see if someone sued Kwak or simply solved the problem.

:beerchug:
 
I had the same issue when I bought my C14.  I tried the Grip Puppies, and they helped, but I was still putting too much pressure on my palms.  I installed bar risers and my hand problems went away.  I recommend them heartily.
 
Tremainiac said:
Took a 260 mile ride yesterday and discovered the hand numbing vibration at 80--90 mph, 3700-4000 rpm in my throttle hand.
Just through all 10 pages of this thread to discover NO simple solution.
Arrgh!
It appears searching the Vibranator web sight they don't have an application for our bike.
:'(
Click to expand...

Mounting ram-mounts a both grips. Will mount GPS and GoPro and see if the various weights change anything, should prove interesting.
The wedges helped a lot!
 
I too have numbness issues mostly with the right hand. I tried risers but no help and they hurt the handling IMO. Tried Phil's Wedgies too but the bars felt all wrong so I'm, back to stock. I agree that the bars are canted rearward too severely and make for a hurtful wrist twist. Assuring good posture does help as does avoiding the Connie death grip. Otherwise it is as good as it gets.

UP
 
I can testify to one thing that definitely works. Cortisone shots.

I've had a arthritic thumb joint giving me pain and recently had a shot to relieve it. I was skeptical whether it would work but I'm pain free....for now.

In addition to a pain free thumb my hand is not getting numb like it had been when riding.
I plan on having the other wrist shot come spring.
 
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