Replaced my fob battery in a Walgreen's parking lot lol. It's only the 2nd one in 3yr/23k.
Wow! I really like that. This may show on my Christmas wish listInstalled a set of Denali (Twisted Throttle) T3 Switchback light pods on their license plate brackets. The lights work as advertised and are very bright.
Not sure if I have the correct ones but I am planning on putting lights on the forks down low and like the looks of these as well as the beam. The price makes me think I may have the wrong one.Changing out the Mondo Moto driving lights that mount to the front forks. One of them burned out. No replacement LED part is available for the Mondo Motos that I could find. I like the new light better anyway... they look to be a bit better and brighter than the MMs.
The are called DK Stealth Driving lights and cost about $72 for the pair. I will report back when they are installed and I have test drove them.
They might go under a different name on eBay... they are a single light in a black housing with cooling fins and about 3" in diameter.
Those look great, I may have to add these to my bike !Installed a set of Denali (Twisted Throttle) T3 Switchback light pods on their license plate brackets. The lights work as advertised and are very bright.
Did you notice much loss of midrange power after the exhaust / flash? I keep thinking about it, but then hearing it loses a bunch of midrange.Well I have a 2017 Kawasaki Concours 14 has 18,000 mi on it. I bought it last year brand new with no miles .. I have put LED headlights on the front plus I had my ECU flashed put an Area P No limits, exhaust on.. added a Kawasaki backrest and passenger lowered foot pegs for more comfort for my passenger. And I have a Garmin XT GPS system on it but it's not permanent. I love this machine she's a real wolf in sheep's clothing. Lol
Have you looked at Ivan's dyno charts? It doesn't lose any midrange.Did you notice much loss of midrange power after the exhaust / flash? I keep thinking about it, but then hearing it loses a bunch of midrange.
Be sure to reply back on how the shock works for you!I've smelled coolant on occasion and have never had any on the garage floor. I removed the fairings this evening and started looking for a leak. I was about to give up, until I lay on my back and found dried antifreeze where this hose attaches. The hose clamp was a little more than finger tight, not much though. The PO stated that the coolant was flushed when the valves were serviced. The coolant does look new and perhaps the clamp was forgotten? Who knows, but now it doesn't seep. I also installed the wedges I purchased from the classifieds here, I like the angle better thanthe stock angle.
I received my resprung and revalved shock Friday evening and will be installing sometime soon. The original had 33k on it and it's under sprung and under damped. I was having to add too much preload to combat the wallowing and there wasn't enough rebound control with any amount of preload added. I look forward to getting this installed.
All the guys doing flashes are opening the upstream butterflies sooner which would improve midrangeDid you notice much loss of midrange power after the exhaust / flash? I keep thinking about it, but then hearing it loses a bunch of midrange.
I installed it last night and set the sag, it's nice to have a shock that is properly sprung. Out of the box it requires no added preload to get 35mm of total sag, there is 3.25 turns of total rebound control and I have it set at 1.25 in right now. For comparison, I had to run the stock shock about 12 turns in and there was absolutely no rebound control, frankly there was no rebound control with very little preload, the rear was like a trampoline.Be sure to reply back on how the shock works for you!
wayne
Is that why you post dyno charts on your website?And sadly, this is why dyno charts are so effective at selling performance components, because very few people really understand what to expect from what they are buying, and think all they ever need to know is in the dyno chart.
If you want to educate yourself, research what happens with very large diameter head and mid pipe headers. Study things like "flow velocity" and "passive egr".
Enough of the condescension dude no one is mad, but why don't you put your ego aside and stop talking down to people. Seems like you can't get enough of it. EVERYTHING I have done with Ivan has been in the quest for better all around drivability, not bragging rights for dyno charts. Do you think you are the only tuner out there that tunes for better all around response, you aren't. So in the end, I'm glad you have happy customers and I'm glad there is another choice, besides you for tuning.No, I post dyno charts on my website because if I don't, people who have a very limited view of what various modifications do wouldn't have anything to look at.
People forget that they do about 1% of their riding at WOT, and that's all you glean from a typical dyno chart. What about all the other times when you have those gian tube headers, riding at 3500 rpm at 10% throttle on the highway? No matter what, tuning can't get back the throttle snap those huge tubes lost via slow velocity.
I'll guarantee you that a stock concours with a good flash will outrun a concours with an area p pipe and a good tune on higher gear roll ons to about 5500 - 6000 rpm. BTDT. From there up the big pipe will kill it... but if you're a person who wants to turn the throttle without downshifting and experience the torque a c-14 can develop (like most riders) you are not going to like what happens with the big tube header.
Bigger isn't always better, but it takes experience to come to that conclusion. Otherwise, you'll have to hang your hat on that WOT dyno chart and "think" you understand how the bike is going to act under regular riding conditions.
Don't be mad with me, I'm just reporting the realities that come with hotrodding... often times that big cam / header / intake / throttle body/ whatever just turned out to be a big step backward on the street. Seen it a thousand times. Kids will argue about this, but mature hotrodders know exactly what I'm talking about.
Steve
Does he run a shop in the area? I'm somewhat local myself.Presently in Mountain Home, AR. ~400 miles from home area (in N. AL). Fred Harmon has my bike and is performing the valve check/adjustment, throttle bottle sync., and a few other odds and ends. Should have my much-improved bike back Monday afternoon. Looking forward to it!
He has a shop/garage at his house, he only schedules one bike at a time.Does he run a shop in the area? I'm somewhat local myself.
I'm 473 miles northwest of there and will need my valves done for the first time later on this summer. The question is, what do you do with yourself for a couple days while your bike gets some TLC?He has a shop/garage at his house, he only schedules one bike at a time.
What lather did would be ideal provided you have 2 bikes & means to haul them. We have some great roads in AR, at least try to hang around a couple days & ride afterwards. Fred is only 5 - 10 miles from Push Mountain Rd. (hwy. 341) & the list of roads just grows from there.I hauled my 2008 Concours and my track bike up to Fred's in 2017. I got a cheap motel room in Mountain Home and spent the day riding the great roads in the area while Fred worked on my bike.
I don't have a second bike, so I'll be riding down. Sounds like hwy. 341 might be a good road to shake the bike out on when Fred's done!What lather did would be ideal provided you have 2 bikes & means to haul them. We have some great roads in AR, at least try to hang around a couple days & ride afterwards. Fred is only 5 - 10 miles from Push Mountain Rd. (hwy. 341) & the list of roads just grows from there.
Fred's never done mine but I'm pretty sure he has a very quick turn around. One of the reasons he'll only take one bike at a time, he doesn't have any other distractions.
Depending on miles its a good time to check fuel filter. I removed radiator when I did mine and changed fluid as well. Gave me a little more room with little more effort.Took off plastics, seat and windscreen in lieu of doing my valve adjustment. Unbolted tank as well as I thought I had too, oops. Lol
Thanks man. It's a 16 with just under 25 on it.Depending on miles its a good time to check fuel filter. I removed radiator when I did mine and changed fluid as well. Gave me a little more room with little more effort.
I took my bike to Fred just after lunch on a Sunday (~ 2 pm) and had it back at 4 pm on Monday. Valves checked / adjusted, throttle body sync and some other odd-n-ends. Well worth it if convenient to do so, unless you can do the work yourself.I'm 473 miles northwest of there and will need my valves done for the first time later on this summer. The question is, what do you do with yourself for a couple days while your bike gets some TLC?
"Update" The Copperdawg is great, Lot's of air for sure. I wish it came up about 6" taller but I will use it this summer in the intense Florida heat. Definetly not good for a rainey day !I installed a Copperdawg Windshield system today, I found a color matching one on ebay last month & bought it for 1/4 of what they cost new. I'm hoping I like it when I take a test ride sometime this week. I'm thinking it will be good for the summer heat here in Florida. The good thing is it only takes a couple minutes to switch out windshields so I can decide which I want to use depending on the ride/weather.
Thats a lot of work, good job! I didn't see lubing the WS tracks but I actually recently did that too.Working leisurely and carefully from March 7 to April 7, using the FSM and Fred Harmon's videos:
1. Valve adjustment and plug replacement. Twelve of sixteen were out (tight) and three of the remaining four were at the minimum. Used the adjustment kit from Murph's which was ideal. It doesn't include o-rings for the oil pipes but mine were so hard to pop out that I saw no real need to replace them anyway. Bought new shims from Rocky Mountain ATV & MC for $1.95 each.
2. Removed and cleaned air filter. It had only 490 miles on it.
3. Cleaned battery terminals and grounds. By "cleaned" I mean 600 grit sandpaper on the frame and the bolt shoulders. I do this regularly.
4. I removed the radiator for the valve adjustment, so I also tightened the header bolts. Several were practically finger loose.
5. Relocated the Garmin GPS power leads from the battery to the front accessory leads. Should have done that in the first place.
6. Lubed the windshield tracks per the FSM.
7. Double flushed and refilled the radiator.
8. Changed oil and filter.
9. Did some minor paint touch-ups here and there with ColorRite pens.
I still have a few miscellaneous jobs to do but the valve adjustment was the biggest and is now finished.
2010, Candy Neptune Blue. My pens were a perfect match, base color, top color, and clearcoat.Thats a lot of work, good job! I didn't see lubing the WS tracks but I actually recently did that too.
What color bike do you have? I have Moondust and got ColorRite pens and they didn't match. Ended up getting some from Touchupdirect and it looks good. Have yet to use it tho.
I did the bearing up at about 45000 and it was a huge improvement. The plastic sleeve was about gone on mine.I finally got around to spending the 15 mins required to install Murph's Bearinged Upshifter. Then took it out for a quick spin to see how it felt and to be frank I'm not sure I noticed any difference. If anything, I think I'll need to adjust the linkage a bit because it doesn't feel like it's in the original position. Also noticed that I get a much more notchy feel on upshift, which is likely due to the pull length (needing adjustment). The way the OEM was built it looked to be fine, even with only a plastic spacer/bushing around the Kawa fat bolt. There wasn't any play in it at all, but then I'm still only at 6k miles so far. Maybe as we get closer to 20k things will start to get smooshed, but for now it still looked like new.
We'll see when I get out this weekend to the Twisted Sisters northwest of San Antonio. If anyone lives over that way, or is heading that way, we're staying in Bandera on Friday and Saturday night. Ping me if you want to hook up. We are a group of 3, being me on my C14 with wifey and two soloists on their HDs Road Kings. Happy to have more smiling faces joining.
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Cool !I received my new license plate after a 9 week wait.
Pics, pics ...!Detailed mine, looks great
Nick
2014 C-14
Installed AST 2" Risers along with the Kawasaki GPS mount (mounts on top of the risers). Had to order 110mm bolts to account for both the risers and the gps mount and they did the trick. I tested the risers with a ride around the block which isn't much of a test but I think I'm going to like them just fine. I just need to find out if the wind screen will be as effective when all the way up.
Got the same issue - been periodically tightening them..replaced 6 of the 8 screws in the side cases Blue Loc tite to keep em there. I checked em last summer but they vibrated out. Not sure where the ones that came out went. Only found one in the bottom of my Bestem bag.
Just got the protectors on and now wiring in my garmin gpsJust ordered the Snake Skin Tank Grips and the bag guards for my 2013 C14. And installed new tire and front wheel bearings.
Bike at shop today, to have Michelin Road 5 GT tires (front and rear) installed. Rainy here in N. AL today and tomorrow, so will be a good test to see how well they perform, but will have to be somewhat careful since (you know) new tires can be rather slick for the first N miles>
"sport touring tires like these normally do not require scrub-in." Actually, they were pretty slick, as usual, so I erred on the safe side to break 'em in. Dealership noted this as well.
Thx for info. The Michelins were not as bad (re: slickness) as the recent Pirelli's I had. Thanks ... yep, made it home safely.Interesting. Good to know for that tire and glad you got home safely. I can assure you the ContiMotions did NOT have this issue.
Maverick if you had to choose one could you determine if it is the X-Screen foil or the Madstad that had the bigger impact? Do you feel each serves its own purpose or are they complimentary?Im really digging the madstad. lots of adjustability.
I think the factory windscreen is a keeper. it has great lines and looks good for the 08.
I'm still going to leave my mra x-screen on just in case. folks the x-screen works!
well made/german