Thanks, that’s my plan, but obviously not cheap to change out 16 shims. Will set to upper middle of suggested range.tbraunreiter,
If you mean your motorcycle just turned 15,000 miles and those are your measurements it is well to know most see movement in valve clearance in the first few thousand miles and less after that. Also, many experience valves tightening (getting more narrow) over time as well. There is a thought to move valves to the largest in spec gap at each adjustment understanding that after break in they seem to always get tighter. I choose to inspect mine at the prescribed intervals and bring out of spec valves into the middle of spec as possible.
If I misunderstood your post and question please disregard.
gsun - what mileage was your first valve clearance check? Did you set to the looser side? Mileage in between first / second maintenance. Finally are you at the higher RPMS often, close to redline?My first check there were 15 out of 16 out of spec. Second one not so bad but still 5 or 6 out.
This valve adjusting philosophy mirrors that of my 05 Busa. On the Busa you can tell the valves need adjusting when the bike gets harder to start... that is... it takes more revolutions for it to fire. The good news is this... once the valves are adjusted again its often been said that if you don't beat the crap out of it you may never have to set them again. I don't know if that is true... just what I have heard from people that build these motors for performance. Like you mentioned... carbon under the valves could be an issue... so... a shot of Sea FOAM ( dam auto correct ) or the equivalent combined with some wide open throttle can be a good way to keep the valves closing like they should.Valve gaps will always get tighter.. that is normal. Valve gaps getting looser is not normal and is usually just caused by carbon build up on the valve head itself which on the older carbureted bikes were more common .. not so common on Fuel Injected bikes. This is why the propensity to always regap to the max specifications if possible to extend out the next inspection interval. High revving the engine to redline does not seem to effect valve clearances however.. maintaining a high rev over long periods will have an effect.. which makes sense.. the engine has many more revolutions on it for the same amount of miles... Bottom line.. red lining the engine is fine.. Holding it at redline...... that will shorten the maintenance intervals. Most people find doing their first 'Adjustment' at 24k miles is perfect. Many people suggest not doing inspections (unless you have the funds or do it yourself-- inspections are not cheap).. just plan on having them re-gapped at 24k miles. That is up to you. Mine were all on the cusp of 'Out of Spec' at 24k miles. All where tight. All were adjusted to the max spec as best as possible
I have always understood and accepted the premise it is cycles not necessarily speed of closure that dictates the frequency of valve clearance adjustments.I've heard it said high RPM use doesn't effect valve clearance, and I'm sure there are anecdotal accounts where that is true. But I struggle with that conclusion as the impact loads at the valve seat scale with the square of engine speed. So I would need an explanation as to why that does not matter before accepting that conclusion as fact.
First one was at about 25K kms. Second about 50. I set it in the middle. I don't ride full out normally.gsun - what mileage was your first valve clearance check? Did you set to the looser side? Mileage in between first / second maintenance. Finally are you at the higher RPMS often, close to redline?
|Cylinder/ (Valve Position)||Spec. Range mm||~ Median mm||1 (Left)||1 Right||2 (Left)||2 (Right)||3 (Left)||3 (Right)||4 (Left)||4 (Right)|
.19 - .24
.12 - .17
Oil Pipe O-Rings were fine, lubed them up and reused.I would inspect those O-rings, and if they look good you should be fine. I don’t recall anyone replacing them. If they would seep a bit, it would be no big deal. I think replacing those rubber washers on the valve cover are more important. The manual doesn’t call for replacing them. Those should be in Murphy’s 4bikes deluxe kit if I remember correctly.