Just checked clearances at 15,000 miles and almost all were at or below minimum recommended clearance. Previous posts I read didn’t seem to find this. Anyone else find similar tight readings?
Thanks, that’s my plan, but obviously not cheap to change out 16 shims. Will set to upper middle of suggested range.tbraunreiter,
If you mean your motorcycle just turned 15,000 miles and those are your measurements it is well to know most see movement in valve clearance in the first few thousand miles and less after that. Also, many experience valves tightening (getting more narrow) over time as well. There is a thought to move valves to the largest in spec gap at each adjustment understanding that after break in they seem to always get tighter. I choose to inspect mine at the prescribed intervals and bring out of spec valves into the middle of spec as possible.
If I misunderstood your post and question please disregard.
gsun - what mileage was your first valve clearance check? Did you set to the looser side? Mileage in between first / second maintenance. Finally are you at the higher RPMS often, close to redline?My first check there were 15 out of 16 out of spec. Second one not so bad but still 5 or 6 out.
This valve adjusting philosophy mirrors that of my 05 Busa. On the Busa you can tell the valves need adjusting when the bike gets harder to start... that is... it takes more revolutions for it to fire. The good news is this... once the valves are adjusted again its often been said that if you don't beat the crap out of it you may never have to set them again. I don't know if that is true... just what I have heard from people that build these motors for performance. Like you mentioned... carbon under the valves could be an issue... so... a shot of Sea FOAM ( dam auto correct ) or the equivalent combined with some wide open throttle can be a good way to keep the valves closing like they should.Valve gaps will always get tighter.. that is normal. Valve gaps getting looser is not normal and is usually just caused by carbon build up on the valve head itself which on the older carbureted bikes were more common .. not so common on Fuel Injected bikes. This is why the propensity to always regap to the max specifications if possible to extend out the next inspection interval. High revving the engine to redline does not seem to effect valve clearances however.. maintaining a high rev over long periods will have an effect.. which makes sense.. the engine has many more revolutions on it for the same amount of miles... Bottom line.. red lining the engine is fine.. Holding it at redline...... that will shorten the maintenance intervals. Most people find doing their first 'Adjustment' at 24k miles is perfect. Many people suggest not doing inspections (unless you have the funds or do it yourself-- inspections are not cheap).. just plan on having them re-gapped at 24k miles. That is up to you. Mine were all on the cusp of 'Out of Spec' at 24k miles. All where tight. All were adjusted to the max spec as best as possible
I have always understood and accepted the premise it is cycles not necessarily speed of closure that dictates the frequency of valve clearance adjustments.I've heard it said high RPM use doesn't effect valve clearance, and I'm sure there are anecdotal accounts where that is true. But I struggle with that conclusion as the impact loads at the valve seat scale with the square of engine speed. So I would need an explanation as to why that does not matter before accepting that conclusion as fact.
First one was at about 25K kms. Second about 50. I set it in the middle. I don't ride full out normally.gsun - what mileage was your first valve clearance check? Did you set to the looser side? Mileage in between first / second maintenance. Finally are you at the higher RPMS often, close to redline?
Buy Fred’s videos and a service manual!is there a write up on it?
i heard taking it to dealer can be costly.
Amen, to that!Buy Fred’s videos and a service manual!
When you are checking and measuring the shims. Record what is the size at every valve.Thanks, that’s my plan, but obviously not cheap to change out 16 shims. Will set to upper middle of suggested range.
15 out 16 on the bike thats on my table now. All tight
Cylinder/ (Valve Position) | Spec. Range mm | ~ Median mm | 1 (Left) | 1 Right | 2 (Left) | 2 (Right) | 3 (Left) | 3 (Right) | 4 (Left) | 4 (Right) |
Exhaust mm | .19 - .24 | .21 | 0.127 | 0.152 | 0.178 | 0.165 | 0.178 | 0.178 | 0.14 | 0.14 |
Intake mm | .12 - .17 | .15 | 0.076 | 0.076 | 0.114 | 0.089 | 0.114 | 0.114 | 0.114 | 0.114 |
Oil Pipe O-Rings were fine, lubed them up and reused.I would inspect those O-rings, and if they look good you should be fine. I don’t recall anyone replacing them. If they would seep a bit, it would be no big deal. I think replacing those rubber washers on the valve cover are more important. The manual doesn’t call for replacing them. Those should be in Murphy’s 4bikes deluxe kit if I remember correctly.
Most auto/truck applications have hydraulic valve adjusters ie lifters that keep the tolerances constant. Some cars like Honda's are adjustable at the rocker thoCan anyone explain why cars and trucks don't need valve adjustments but our bikes do?
True, and I understand Harley's do as well. High performance, racing and race-type bikes require such checks and adjustments.Most auto/truck applications have hydraulic valve adjusters ie lifters that keep the tolerances constant. Some cars like Honda's are adjustable at the rocker tho
From what i see on the Kawi 14 motors, being a Concours 14 or a ZX 14, if the bike are ridden aggressively, the valves will be more so to say as in Spec.Nick as you may have captured from my documenting I went 31K to first adjustment, in hindsight, I would not recommend postponing this long.
Per above charts all valve clearances were, some more than others, below minimum specification.
The big unknown is how were valves adjusted at the factory? I would assume mid-specification but there is a range and to the Kawasaki service manual if the measurement is in range you are good...
When are you due for your 30? I also interested to see where you turned out since you had control of the starting point.
Overall it’s not a bad job - yes for sure takes time but I think after the first one under the belt the subsequent would be much quicker: lessons have been learned, know more what to pre-buy (or not) and respect for engineering replaces fear of destroying something (confidence). Also not to mention all the great support and resources from COG.
I guess they’ll never need to be touched again!From what i see on the Kawi 14 motors, being a Concours 14 or a ZX 14, if the bike are ridden aggressively, the valves will be more so to say as in Spec.
If the bike is so called babied, the will be generally out of Spec.
And you will tend to see, intakes loose, and exhaust side tight
Chris
This is just my opinion, but if your in there already, I'd adjust them all to the high end as you call it. Then you could maybe postpone out the next adjustment a giving number of miles?? And feel good about it.
That's what I asked my mechanic to do, and he did.
He owns a C-14 and thought it was a good idea.
Nick
2014 C-14