Not today but Tuesday went for a 300 mile ride in the mountains of Western NC and Eastern Tennessee. Surprisingly got 260 miles out of a tank of gas. A record for me. Must of been the valve adjustment, carb synch and Delkevic exhaust.
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Great area to ride, I’m jealous!
Nice picture, clean bike, awesome.
Wow 260 miles from a tank and in the mountains - that’s great!
As you know the C14 shed a couple gallons of fuel capacity - on several occasions I’ve missed that range extending elixir of Waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa..
In Utah last year there were areas of no fuel for 100 miles or more. On one occasion I had filled up within the last 30 miles and decided to forego a top off, well the station at the end of the line was not open due to new tanks being put in! We had to run another 40-50 miles (which were driven with much more fuel saving care than the previous) and then fuel low light on for the last ~15 miles. I was thankful when we came across a town with several fueling options. After that I topped off when there was a long stretch - LOL.
Wayne, Carol & Blue
Maybe a tailwind also.
Got my 2005 home this morning and began making it fit ( Bought it this morning ) ...Changed Heli bar setup back to stock which work great for me , Changed the Rifle Very tall windscreen back to stock. The stock one is going to take a lil work as it does show some blemishes. Also ordered lowering dogs. Trying to be patient but difficult as we have recently came out of our forever rain and getting some beautiful weather. It was great that PO had teh stock stuff yet.
...and the things ur taking off (helibars) are highly sought after....
Define Lowering Dogs?
If you're planning to use Soupy's links, people have had difficulties.
I think the problem was width.
It is possible but needs some special attention.
Most successful was lowering Rockers from Norm Soucy.
Unfortunately, there no longer available.
Ride safe, Ted
Thanks for the heads up. I did order Soupys links as they were only real solution I could find and I have used dog bones on other Kawis and like the infinite adjust-ability .
So I have discovered..Retail price is not what I expected .
My memory might not be 100%.
The issue may be Soupy lowering links and C-14 shock combination.I
It's possible the issue is the C-14 shock itself. As the C-14 spring is wider than Stock and interferes with the Soupy's LInks.
The stock shock may not.
Ride safe, Ted
The issue may be Soupy lowering links and C-14 shock combination.I
It's possible the issue is the C-14 shock itself. As the C-14 spring is wider than Stock and interferes with the Soupy's LInks.
The stock shock may not.
Ride safe, Ted
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Finally a day off and was dry at that. Got around to installed my “new” rear caliper. Modified by Jim Snyder about 3 years back and rebuilt it when it came home. Been sitting in a bag since. Went right on.
Now to take her for a test ride, first chance I get. Maybe next Saturday.
And yes, witness the scunned up rim. Did that with spoons on my first tire change.
Have a No-Mar now
Now to take her for a test ride, first chance I get. Maybe next Saturday.
And yes, witness the scunned up rim. Did that with spoons on my first tire change. Have a No-Mar now
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You are either brave or strong or both! I was able to R&R the front tire, but the rear was beyond my capabilities. Took it to a local shop. The $80 was worth it… Good luck on your test drive!Finally a day off and was dry at that. Got around to installed my “new” rear caliper. Modified by Jim Snyder about 3 years back and rebuilt it when it came home. Been sitting in a bag since. Went right on.
Now to take her for a test ride, first chance I get. Maybe next Saturday.
Jim helped me install the same caliper on my bike. Gives me more controllable braking.Finally a day off and was dry at that. Got around to installed my “new” rear caliper. Modified by Jim Snyder about 3 years back and rebuilt it when it came home. Been sitting in a bag since. Went right on.
Now to take her for a test ride, first chance I get. Maybe next Saturday.
Only issue I've had is (at max shock compression) the rear portion of the caliper touches the inside of the pocket on the bag slightly.
Ride safe, Ted
Hello, it comes from where the stirrup
Taking a queue from my riding companion when attending the NE Area’s Spring Fling a w/e ago, I decided to install a voltmeter on my ’95. I’d thought about it many years ago, but the only thing that was small enough at the time was a unit made by Datek. Its LED display was a mundane gray, and not particularly waterproof or visible at night because it wasn’t backlighted. I’d put a voltmeter on my KLR many years ago to keep track of things when using my heated gear, but it was a segmented LED-type and a little flaky with regards to accuracy.
My companion had mounted a voltmeter on his Tracer, and it proved its worth when he went to head out the morning after we’d arrived to go to a dealer to get a punctured, but patched tire replaced. It was pretty cool that a.m. and his bike was a little slow in starting. He said his voltmeter showed that his battery’s voltage was dropping pretty low before it finally fired up. He also noted that it was a little balky in firing when he went to leave the shop, so he decided to get the battery replaced while he was there - JIC.
Since this trip was the first time my own bike has headed out of the barn in a very long time, I was a little apprehensive before we left about the 14 year old YTX20L-BS Interstate Maint.-Free Battery I’d stuck in it119,000 38,750 miles ago. Fortunately, it did fine for this trip, but ya’ll know how that goes.
Once home, I found a nice little waterproof unit on Amazon for (I thought) a good price ($12.00); it arrived yesterday, and I mounted it today.
I used 2” length of ½” wide double-sided 3M tape that’s used to mount auto emblems to stick it in place on my dash, and put a notch in the inside fairing piece so I could easily dress the wire under it and make the switched electrical connection. I didn’t want to drill any holes during the installation, and I can certainly live with the short piece of wiring that is showing.
Very happy with the meter’s display thus far, so we’ll see how well it holds up.
My companion had mounted a voltmeter on his Tracer, and it proved its worth when he went to head out the morning after we’d arrived to go to a dealer to get a punctured, but patched tire replaced. It was pretty cool that a.m. and his bike was a little slow in starting. He said his voltmeter showed that his battery’s voltage was dropping pretty low before it finally fired up. He also noted that it was a little balky in firing when he went to leave the shop, so he decided to get the battery replaced while he was there - JIC.
Since this trip was the first time my own bike has headed out of the barn in a very long time, I was a little apprehensive before we left about the 14 year old YTX20L-BS Interstate Maint.-Free Battery I’d stuck in it
Once home, I found a nice little waterproof unit on Amazon for (I thought) a good price ($12.00); it arrived yesterday, and I mounted it today.
I used 2” length of ½” wide double-sided 3M tape that’s used to mount auto emblems to stick it in place on my dash, and put a notch in the inside fairing piece so I could easily dress the wire under it and make the switched electrical connection. I didn’t want to drill any holes during the installation, and I can certainly live with the short piece of wiring that is showing.
Very happy with the meter’s display thus far, so we’ll see how well it holds up.
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After I posted the bit above about my installing the voltmeter, a member sent me a PM asking where I picked up the switched 12 volt connection. I responded:
Years ago I’d tapped into the pair of wires that went to the front turn signal lights on the bike. I’d done this when I replaced the side reflectors and installed side marker lights that would illuminate when the ignition was on, but would also alternate ON and OFF when the turn signals were used. When I swapped out all of my turn signal lamps to LED types, this scheme no longer worked because the necessary ground through the filaments went away so I disconnected the side marker lights.
The RED/BLUE wire I tapped into going to the front left turn signal was the one I re-used to supply a switched (+) voltage to the voltmeter. I picked up a ground from a wire that was already available from when I had aux driving lights mounted on the bike.
After I sent the above, I made a clarification because I’d mentioned my picking up a ground from a wire I already had available which that individual probably didn't have. Both of the voltmeter’s connections can come from the leads that go to a front turn signal lamp; RED/BLUE for the positive, and BLACK/YELLOW for the negative. The same colors apply to the left and right front turn signals for a switched 12 volt signal. A third wire going to each lamp differentiates whether it is a left, or right connection.
Years ago I’d tapped into the pair of wires that went to the front turn signal lights on the bike. I’d done this when I replaced the side reflectors and installed side marker lights that would illuminate when the ignition was on, but would also alternate ON and OFF when the turn signals were used. When I swapped out all of my turn signal lamps to LED types, this scheme no longer worked because the necessary ground through the filaments went away so I disconnected the side marker lights.
The RED/BLUE wire I tapped into going to the front left turn signal was the one I re-used to supply a switched (+) voltage to the voltmeter. I picked up a ground from a wire that was already available from when I had aux driving lights mounted on the bike.
After I sent the above, I made a clarification because I’d mentioned my picking up a ground from a wire I already had available which that individual probably didn't have. Both of the voltmeter’s connections can come from the leads that go to a front turn signal lamp; RED/BLUE for the positive, and BLACK/YELLOW for the negative. The same colors apply to the left and right front turn signals for a switched 12 volt signal. A third wire going to each lamp differentiates whether it is a left, or right connection.
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Going over the bike again in prep for a trip over to the middle of WV to attend the WV State Folk Festival week after next. Been going to this event on and off since I was a baby. This was my father's birthplace and we spent many of our vacations there over the years. My aunt lived in the homestead house where she and her 3 brothers were born until she passed a number of years ago. We sold it shortly thereafter because my wife refused to move to WV due to the distance of any medical assistance of any consequence. Trying to manage the place long distance just wasn't practical so we decided to let it go. Lots of fond childhood memories there.
Swapped out a USB jack for one with a digital volt meter. $1 at a place that buys pallets of returns and resells them. Wednesday is $1 day for most everything in the store. Going there on dollar day and not buying anything View attachment 36119View attachment 36120is worse than trying to leave big lots empty handed.
That's pretty cool. If I might ask, what on the bike did your USB jack connect to before the swap, or did it just go to a 12V source? If I'd had one of those, I wouldn't have had to go through all the rigamarole when I added my voltmeter.
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Very cool.. I just bought a digital safe from probably same place ..
Swapped out a USB jack for one with a digital volt meter. $1 at a place that buys pallets of returns and resells them. Wednesday is $1 day for most everything in the store. Going there on dollar day and not buying anything View attachment 36119View attachment 36120is worse than trying to leave big lots empty handed.
I'm getting the impression that this is a brick and mortar store?
??????????
Just finished a 1900 plus mile week. Started with a 70 mile trip for breakfast only to return home due to fuel coming out of the #2 overflow. I opened the bowl drain and started it up and got lucky that it flushed the debris out and it stopped overflowing. We then slabed it to CT to spend the night with our daughter. Next up to the White Mountain Ride. We met several new to us COGer's. Good food, good ride, great time.
We left NH in the cold and wet and ended the day in Saranac Lake NY. The bonfire and barbecue with friends from high school made it worth while. After a couple of days with them came south through the central Adirondacks and NY rt. 10 into PA. for a night in Scranton and home today.
Kat now wants to go out for ice cream. I think she will get what she wants.
We left NH in the cold and wet and ended the day in Saranac Lake NY. The bonfire and barbecue with friends from high school made it worth while. After a couple of days with them came south through the central Adirondacks and NY rt. 10 into PA. for a night in Scranton and home today.
Kat now wants to go out for ice cream. I think she will get what she wants.
The previous owner (Fred Bowen) installed a couple of cigarette lighter sockets and 1 USB. He ran everything to an aux fuse box with a relay. The volt meter can be turned off by a little push button switch on the unit. Just got lucky running into this yesterday.
This is a brick and mortar place that opened up in town. A former vet is buying pallets of returns from places like Amazon and reselling them. He puts out new stock on Saturday. Starts at $8 then drops each day. Wednesday is dollar day. If you're not there when he opens on Saturday and Wednesday, most of the really good deals are gone.
I have that exact one on my Harley. Voltmeter is nice
Looks great Guy!Just waiting for a new (Spiegler) brake line to come in so I can mount this (re-visited) puppy up:
Besides finishing up the 2-pot caliper arrangement as per the above, I took the bike out on the road for an approximate 25 mile jaunt on local roads just to make sure the bike still stopped. It did, but with brand new Galfer Green pads installed I took it a little easy to avoid glazing them over. We’ll put more miles on the bike before heading off to the wilds of WV next Friday. I also had the RH saddlebag installed so I could pick up a few groceries and see how much of an interference issue there was with the one caliper protrusion. There was slight contact, but nothing I’m going to worry about right now. We’ll take care of it at a later time.
For the brake, I can tell there’s still a slight bit of air in the system, so we’ll keep locking the pedal in a fully applied position over night so the air can eventually work itself out.
And finally, I decided to swap out the Auxito headlamp LED bulb, back to a real 80/100w incandescent. As whitish and promising as the LED bulb looks, I’m still not convinced that they can project a beam out to where it actually does some good. Over where I’m going, I want all the candlepower I can muster in the prep time I have left.
I’ve run into this concern several times riding in the dark over the past several months and I was danged glad when I finally made it home; unnerving to say the least. I’m sure my aged eyesight has something to do with it, but I think its more that the bike’s reflector and “Fresnel” lens design from back in the day aren’t fully compatible with today’s LED technology.
And that’s all I have to say about that.
For the brake, I can tell there’s still a slight bit of air in the system, so we’ll keep locking the pedal in a fully applied position over night so the air can eventually work itself out.
And finally, I decided to swap out the Auxito headlamp LED bulb, back to a real 80/100w incandescent. As whitish and promising as the LED bulb looks, I’m still not convinced that they can project a beam out to where it actually does some good. Over where I’m going, I want all the candlepower I can muster in the prep time I have left.
I’ve run into this concern several times riding in the dark over the past several months and I was danged glad when I finally made it home; unnerving to say the least. I’m sure my aged eyesight has something to do with it, but I think its more that the bike’s reflector and “Fresnel” lens design from back in the day aren’t fully compatible with today’s LED technology.
And that’s all I have to say about that.
Put in a Voltmeter today along with an extra running light on the tail of the Givi mount rack. While I was working with the seat off I added the resistor to the fuel guage connection under the tank. Coming soon is an accessory connection. It was a beautiful day for working on her outside here. Thanks to all of you who helped me with this with advice,youre all scholars and gentleman!
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Finally got around to installing the new fork springs and seals on my '95. Installed the 1.2 springs with 15 weight. A bit firm but not uncomfortably so.
Installed a fork brace and replaced the RDL seat with a stock one.
Need a bit more time to form an opinion on the brace, but the seat is a big change. Now I can flatfoot and I'm looking through the windshield extension and not over it.
Need a bit more time to form an opinion on the brace, but the seat is a big change. Now I can flatfoot and I'm looking through the windshield extension and not over it.
I think you’re going to have purge problems, the hose is higher than the purge screw, the ideal is to mount a banjo with purge
I think you’re going to have purge problems, the hose is higher than the purge screw, the ideal is to mount a banjo with purge
Appreciate that, but all of the trapped air has eventually worked its way out...... BUT - tain't never seen one of those on any sites here. Is it unique to the Euro market?
EDIT: Actually just found some on eBay. Thank you for the heads up.
there is another thing that bothers me, why the caliper is mounted with the small piston in the opposite direction of that of the front wheel, the braking is better ?
the principle of installation on the front is to avoid irregular wear of the pads at the attack of the direction of rotation, as installed here the problem of irregular wear (not parallel) will be amplified and the pads will wear out faster side small piston.
for the same volume of liquid sent, the small piston will come out faster, added to that an attraction by rotation from the beginning of the platelets...am I clear the ??
the principle of installation on the front is to avoid irregular wear of the pads at the attack of the direction of rotation, as installed here the problem of irregular wear (not parallel) will be amplified and the pads will wear out faster side small piston.
for the same volume of liquid sent, the small piston will come out faster, added to that an attraction by rotation from the beginning of the platelets...am I clear the ??
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there is another thing that bothers me, why the caliper is mounted with the small piston in the opposite direction of that of the front wheel, the braking is better ?
the principle of installation on the front is to avoid irregular wear of the pads at the attack of the direction of rotation, as installed here the problem of irregular wear (not parallel) will be amplified and the pads will wear out faster side small piston.
for the same volume of liquid sent, the small piston will come out faster, added to that an attraction by rotation from the beginning of the platelets...am I clear the ??
Appreciate your concern - however - I guess I’m guilty of being a Lemming here and followed the others who fell in line with Mr. Snyder’s mounting scheme. I can only surmise he mounted it the way he did because of the proximity of the line connection to the output of the master cylinder.
In my remaining time on this planet with this bike, if I see any premature wear differential occurring between the pads, I can clean up, rebuild, and swap out the existing one with the opposite side front caliper (orange one in the picture) I still have. That’ll put the large piston towards the front of the bike.
Personally, I don’t see a need for that happening any time in the foreseeable future. Pedal pressure now is so light with excellent results in braking (and braking feel) that I anticipate these pads lasting for a very long time regardless of their pistons fore/aft position.
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To add to what I did the other day (but not today as in the thread title) I believe the stiffer fork springs and brace have made the straight-ahead tracking much better. As some other C-10 owners have experienced, my 95 was a bit wiggly at speed, particularly in the wake of a semi. Having started with off-road riding, the wiggle was more of an annoyance than a worry. I did mount a bias Commander II on the rear (for wear life) and that calmed it down a bit. The front end changes improved it more. My theory is the reduced sag improved the geometry, or more accurately, restored it to what big K intended.
I did notice a little "shift" under certain cornering conditions. I had checked for swingarm side play and any movement in the steering head bearings. Everything seemed tight. With the springs and brace, it now was giving me a distinct flat spot feel rolling side to side at very low speed. Sure enough, the steering head bearings are notchy. I appear to have missed it when checking before but you can just feel it with the tire off the ground. It's minimal, but it seems the front end changes made it noticeable in use.
I did notice a little "shift" under certain cornering conditions. I had checked for swingarm side play and any movement in the steering head bearings. Everything seemed tight. With the springs and brace, it now was giving me a distinct flat spot feel rolling side to side at very low speed. Sure enough, the steering head bearings are notchy. I appear to have missed it when checking before but you can just feel it with the tire off the ground. It's minimal, but it seems the front end changes made it noticeable in use.
well it’s been the last week or so but I’ve put ninja cams, adjustable cam gears adjusted 7 degrees advance on the exhaust. I’ve already got the larger 36mm carbs for a while. I installed a gpz900 igniter/cdi. That made a big improvement. I also bought some tiny high/low lights and mounted them to the small access panel screws below the headlight. Made quite the difference. Can see much better at night. They are not very obvious. Nice improvement. Well next is the zx9 front end. I’ve got all the parts. Need to find someone willing to do the lathe work and eventually I’ll do a big bore kit.
For a future today... Was out for a morning ride in the countryside and ended up in the middle of a pack of dogs. Fortunately, just curious dogs but effective at surrounding bikes apparently. Went for the horn to clear the path ahead and... nothing!
Guess this is my next project?
Guess this is my next project?
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Finally finished my most recent improvement on my ‘00 C-10. Installation of a fork brace and Spiegler stainless braided clutch line.
Fork brace really tightened up the front end and made the fork improvements I did last year, new racetech springs and emulators, come alive.
Clutch line was well overdue and goes along with the braided brake lines from a few years ago.
Now only mods left will be a 17” front wheel.
Fork brace really tightened up the front end and made the fork improvements I did last year, new racetech springs and emulators, come alive.
Clutch line was well overdue and goes along with the braided brake lines from a few years ago.
Now only mods left will be a 17” front wheel.
How do the forks feel with the emulators? I just installed the 1.2 Sonic springs with 15 weight and they are pretty harsh on the small fast hits but still about bottom out under braking.
Once I got the preload set, it made a difference. Never felt the bottoming out but the brace really made the forks feel much better
Merle, I'm always trying to learn about adjusting suspensions.
Have you set the sag on the bike after installing the 1.2's?
Harsh on the little/fast bumps but still dives, is a little confusing to me?
Sounds like you may have to stiff of springs and no pre load?
If you go to the emulators, it may be harsher on the small bumps.
Guessing that because a stock C-10 has no compression damping and the Emulators will add that.
Have you set the sag on the bike after installing the 1.2's?
Harsh on the little/fast bumps but still dives, is a little confusing to me?
Sounds like you may have to stiff of springs and no pre load?
If you go to the emulators, it may be harsher on the small bumps.
Guessing that because a stock C-10 has no compression damping and the Emulators will add that.
I used the spacer length indicated in the spring docs and getting the caps back on took some effort. Did not check actual sag yet. Started off with zero clicks on the adjusters so can add more if needed. I will address that before making any other changes. Was almost livable loaded down for a 4 day trip in western NC with my wife riding pillion, but empty solo it gets irritating on rough pavement.
As far as brake dive goes, it's not significant under normal use, but that is a big heavy bike with a big heavy rider and a lot of brake.
Race Tech's rate calculator came up with 1.0 kg/mm. The Sonic springs will apparently fit my Electra Glide (P.O. had lowered it) so I may just pay the $350 and get the RT spring and emulator combo. There's also the GMD Computrak guy not far from me so I might get some help from him.
I just downloaded the Race Tech emulator tuning guide as well.
As far as brake dive goes, it's not significant under normal use, but that is a big heavy bike with a big heavy rider and a lot of brake.
Race Tech's rate calculator came up with 1.0 kg/mm. The Sonic springs will apparently fit my Electra Glide (P.O. had lowered it) so I may just pay the $350 and get the RT spring and emulator combo. There's also the GMD Computrak guy not far from me so I might get some help from him.
I just downloaded the Race Tech emulator tuning guide as well.
Replaced the badly sun-faded front fender with a brand new one that became available.
ALL THE DETAILS - start to finish.
ALL THE DETAILS - start to finish.
Sag on the front is about 30mm
Strong but not full-effort braking used another 80mm. There was more in reserve.
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Whatcha do when there’s a relatively new gas station (Sheetz) selling regular gas for $0.35 - $0.90/gal. less than other stations in the general locale, and 7 miles from me. $3.15/gal. is hard to beat. A competitor just down the road (Wawa) had the same price last week for a day and I filled up the Connie on Friday in prep. for a 150-mile ride Sat. morning. That same station was up to $3.56 yesterday, and today.
Congrats on the big score, Guy!! In the Middle of Nowhere, CA we're paying $4.599/gal.... It's one of the "psychic benefits" of living in CA....Whatcha do when there’s a relatively new gas station (Sheetz) selling regular gas for $0.35 - $0.90/gal. less than other stations in the general locale, and 7 miles from me. $3.15/gal. is hard to beat. A competitor just down the road (Wawa) had the same price last week for a day and I filled up the Connie on Friday in prep. for a 150-mile ride Sat. morning. That same station was up to $3.56 yesterday, and today.
Well, my C10 project went home to a new owner a couple of weeks ago. I actually made a couple of sheckels on it. Besides riding my trusty 85 Gl1200, I picked up a 1996 BMW K1100 with a bunch of miles. It only needed a new front tire, and the cooling fan needed replacing. So I'm missing my C10 and waiting for parts on the Beemer. I"ll keep hanging around the COG, though - come for the bike, stay for the people, right?? I'm saving my project $$ for a low hanging C14 anyway....
I may try and get out there tomorrow in my 2005 RAM 1500 truck to top it off. I have a little
EDIT: Did get out there this this morning in the truck and their gas is still $3.15/gal. A little over 18 gallons to top it off. That'll probably last me until this time next year.
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Waiting for parts to arrive. ‘90 ZX-6 17” front wheel at post office, ready to be picked up. ZX-6 Speedo drive coming from down under and spacer coming from Japan. Just have to clean and paint rim, r&r bearing, polish and wait for existing front tire to weardown.
May be a fall/winter project.
May be a fall/winter project.
All I'm doing right now is trying to heal up from various orthopedic and other kinds of surgeries. Plus, been hotter than Hades here in the FL Panhandle for weeks now. I'm getting too old to ride in that kind of heat anymore.
I installed a ton of new parts on my 2005 C-10 this past winter (new tires\brakes\front rotors\Delkevics\fluids) and have hardly had a chance to put any miles on so far this year. So the Connie just sits in the garage with a cover over it.
I fear there won't be too many more seasons of riding if the next couple of years are anything like the last two have been, healthwise.
I installed a ton of new parts on my 2005 C-10 this past winter (new tires\brakes\front rotors\Delkevics\fluids) and have hardly had a chance to put any miles on so far this year. So the Connie just sits in the garage with a cover over it.
I fear there won't be too many more seasons of riding if the next couple of years are anything like the last two have been, healthwise.
Ok guy, folks wanna know is that 105k miles, 205k or. Gulp 305k miles of ur odometer?Whatcha do when there’s a relatively new gas station (Sheetz) selling regular gas for $0.35 - $0.90/gal. less than other stations in the general locale, and 7 miles from me. $3.15/gal. is hard to beat. A competitor just down the road (Wawa) had the same price last week for a day and I filled up the Connie on Friday in prep. for a 150-mile ride Sat. morning. That same station was up to $3.56 yesterday, and today.
Wow! My new to me 2004 is just a baby then! 14,009 when I bought it in June. I have had to do a ton of the preventive maintenance that was neglected but, today, I was able to ride it to work for the first time!205K. Just flipped over to an even 205000 on the 6th.
...and I get a kick outta folks who will shy away from bith the c10 and c14 with more than 75k miles.... barely broke in...
Replaced the aging (165250 11/17/09) Interstate YTX20L-BS battery with a new Mighty Max YTX20L-BS from Amazon. I had noticed the starter getting a little wussy-like a couple of weeks, or so before, so knew it was just a matter of time. Bike wouldn't crank after getting home from a ~150 mile ride last Saturday. Fortunately, I pulled the GPS from its cradle and locked it in a saddle bag during our breakfast stop. Started "okay" when we headed across the street for a load of peanuts (we were in peanut country), and then headed for home. A couple of hours later, bike wouldn't start after getting home and leaving it on the garage apron with the GPS still turned on.
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This previous weekend, I took Voyager (yes, that's what I named my C10) on a 210 mile trip to a nature preserve and back, two up. I then installed some aux lights and replaced the headlight with a Beamtech LED bulb. Managed to remove it without taking any of the fairings off. Took 3 minutes. Also got a glamor shot yesterday.
EDIT: BONUS GLAMOR SHOT (I'll stop after this one)
EDIT: BONUS GLAMOR SHOT (I'll stop after this one)
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Finally received my “new” rear rim.Off a ‘04 Suzuki ZN1600 Marauder. Just have to have it milled down a bit and clean it up. Have a ‘91 ZX600 for the front. New spacer came in today from Kawasaki Japan and awaiting speedo drive from down under next week.
Cleaning up of both and new rubber. Install will wait until I wear out my existing Dunlop Roadsmart III. I’ll have 17” front and back
Do have a Mean Streak rim now, but always made me mad when I look at it and see where I slightly scarred it spooning on a tire. No have a no-mar, so that want happen again.
When install happens, I’ll place the M/S on the COG site.
Cleaning up of both and new rubber. Install will wait until I wear out my existing Dunlop Roadsmart III. I’ll have 17” front and back
Do have a Mean Streak rim now, but always made me mad when I look at it and see where I slightly scarred it spooning on a tire. No have a no-mar, so that want happen again.
When install happens, I’ll place the M/S on the COG site.
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I’m not riding mine if the temp is in the 80’s. Growing up riding in Central Florida did it for me riding in the heat. That and I’m never riding without ATGATT anymore. Mesh jacket is good but get uncomfortable riding home in these temps..
Next week, lows in the 60’s for ride in the AM and hi 70’s for ride home in PM. Come on fall
Last year UTAH uppers 90’s*F to 109*F ATGATT we were soaked. My wife likes to keep her jacket open (unzipped 8 inches or so) on days like that, not a great idea - dehydrate and if you go down exposed.
I know it’s counterintuitive but you lose more hydration without gear…
So yea hear you on heat - enjoy the cooler temps coming!
Wayne, Carol & Blue
I Was working on mine this week I had a fan in the garage for the heat. Finally got around to syncing the carbs and putting the block off plates from Murphs on. Two of the carbs on the right side of the engine were off with one of the 2 more off than the 1st one. And I bought her a set of Delkevics. Theres something about the sound and look of them that just adds something for me. With this heat 10 years ago I would have no problem riding,but now being in my late 60s it seems to affect me a bit more. Being even out in the garage I have a cooler full of water and Gatorade for working. The last picture was from one of my late wife and mines road trips out west. We went out ot vist my son in California and riding across the desert from Las vegas to California. When we went through Vegas it was 109 and then it finally peaked towards California at 113. It was a good trip 7200 miles and 17 days. And we got to see my son and his family for awhile.
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I think you might be in better shape than you think you are. Riding across the desert in 113 degrees would be pretty tough. My hats off to you and your wife. Bike looks great. Mufflers look very nice and sound great. I have the same one's.
Dean
Dean
Thanks Dean, it was a fun trip. Only hit bad weather a few times,but when going across the desert the late missus and I had cooling vests on under our jackets. We found we could ride about an hour and a half until we had to pull over and rehydrate and refresh the vests. With the Delkevics I really like the way they look and sound. Just a little bit more throatier sound and it doesnt seem to affect the powerband on the motor.
Mick
Mick
The Delks should be allowing a bit more torque than stock.
I did dyno tests with similar slip-on's (Cobra F1s) and could see the difference.
Ride safe, Ted
I did dyno tests with similar slip-on's (Cobra F1s) and could see the difference.
Ride safe, Ted
What's the difference between the 18", 14" and 9" in terms of performance and sound? And how quiet is it with the baffles?
-x01660
Not sure how to answer sound other than; longer = Quiter and sound is further behind you & less likely to reverberate off of bags.
Performance would be about equal on all. {slightly more Torque/Peak HP & smoother torque curve than stock}
NOTE: A baffelectomy will give you the same performance benefit but would be only slightly louder/mellower than stock and costs nothing.
Ride safe, Ted
See Posts #6 and #7.
forum.concours.org
Performance would be about equal on all. {slightly more Torque/Peak HP & smoother torque curve than stock}
NOTE: A baffelectomy will give you the same performance benefit but would be only slightly louder/mellower than stock and costs nothing.
Ride safe, Ted
See Posts #6 and #7.
Horsepower/Torque Graph
I'm looking for the horsepower or torque curve Steve originally posted on his website for a motor with his exhaust cam sprocket and the intake timing. If anybody has a JPG or PDF or whatever of it, please post it here. Or if it's already in here somewhere, please let me know. Thanks and happy...
forum.concours.org
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Not sure how to answer sound other than; longer = Quiter and sound is further behind you & less likely to reverberate off of bags.
Performance would be about equal on all. {slightly more Torque/Peak HP & smoother torque curve than stock}
NOTE: A baffelectomy will give you the same performance benefit but would be only slightly louder/mellower than stock and costs nothing.
Ride safe, Ted
See Posts #6 and #7.
Horsepower/Torque Graph
I'm looking for the horsepower or torque curve Steve originally posted on his website for a motor with his exhaust cam sprocket and the intake timing. If anybody has a JPG or PDF or whatever of it, please post it here. Or if it's already in here somewhere, please let me know. Thanks and happy...
I'll have to check to see if I already have that done. But as is, my bike is LOUD. Like, I have a Vulcan 800 that I debaffled by cutting them out, and the C10's exhaust will literally drown out the Vulcan.
That said, I like the idea of the 9 inch Delks, since that would allow me to get access to the rear brake rotor and the final drive without pulling the exhaust.
Thanks!
-x01660
So I did a thing today, and I was discussing with another member on here. Wanted to get your opinion:
I have the metal plate that was down below bolted to the deck of the backrest, then the plastic GIVI baseplate bolted to that.
Is this too far to the rear of the bike? Its super stable when I rock it, and I don't intend on putting anything heavier than some water bottles and snacks in there.
-x01660
I have the metal plate that was down below bolted to the deck of the backrest, then the plastic GIVI baseplate bolted to that.
Is this too far to the rear of the bike? Its super stable when I rock it, and I don't intend on putting anything heavier than some water bottles and snacks in there.
-x01660
It is a little farther back than normal but not by much. But it opens up good & looks good on the bike. I say your fine. Are you going to put some brake lights on it. I just noticed that backrest is taller than mine so if it went any more forward it would not open correctly. So rt were it is at is perfect.
Dean
Dean
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Hello
I think it’s far, it will shake a lot, personally, I will either mount it on ball rails, or I will place a triangulation.
I think it’s far, it will shake a lot, personally, I will either mount it on ball rails, or I will place a triangulation.
Zak. Who ever you ride with get them to see if it is shacking. You could also make a bracket that bolted under your rack out of aluminum and bend it both ways to add as a brace if you needed to.
Dean
Dean
I
I’ve been running the 14”s since spring and really like the way they look and sound. Like a liter in-line four should. Even the wife likes the way they sound
Givi makes a back rest that mounts on the trunk / facilitate removing the sissy bar.Hello
I think it’s far, it will shake a lot, personally, I will either mount it on ball rails, or I will place a triangulation.
I guy on here is looking to buy the sisbar
I have em both of mine. Wife says they work great
I think that was the backrest that was posted on Classified here. I bought it. Wanted something a LOT more substantial than a pad on the topcase. Its a me thing, but I looked at the mechanism, and all that holds the topcase onto the baseplate are the two plastic clips that slot in the back of the case itself, and the lower locking mechanism beneath the keyhole... Don't trust 3 pieces of plastic to hold my fiance if I have to hammer the throttle and she's not ready....
Probably a me thing, but I trust metal a WHOLE lot more than plastic...
-x01660
Whelp.... It didn't work.... Acted as a lever and actually started bending the side arms of the backrest and bending it down.... So now I gotta straighten it...
I also made a novice mistake, and didn't realize that the metal inserts for the base plate come off.... I lost 3 going down the highway...
Oy vey.....
I also made a novice mistake, and didn't realize that the metal inserts for the base plate come off.... I lost 3 going down the highway...
Oy vey.....
...333 that isn't gonna work. I havent been on the Givi website in a while. Do they no longer offer any backrest pads for their trunks. That's really the only solution to adding the storage capacity AND passenger comfort. Gotta remember folks, this is a sport touring mc, not a goldwing lazy boy for ur passenger to fall asleep on.
Heck, now that I think of it, maybe 1 could mount the rear trunk assembly to the rear of a c10......hmmm?
Heck, now that I think of it, maybe 1 could mount the rear trunk assembly to the rear of a c10......hmmm?
Yeah.... Looks like I'm gonna have to get a GL1800 for our super long trips...
Oh well. N+1 and all that jazz.
-x01660
I have 18 inch and can remove the bolt without removing the exhaust
Sent my J-Box off to Mr. Larry Buck today. Very glad their is somebody still doing that mod. Piece Of Mind knowing it is bullet proof.
Dean
Dean
Day off from work and first ride in a few months. Finally no longer in the 90’s. 245 miles and 6.5 hours. Thru SC into NC onto the Parkway and back. Love the sound of the Delkevics in the tunnels.All on 2 lanes without touching an interstate.
Nice birthday ride for my 2000 Concours. 23 years old this month with 73k miles and still going strong. Still loving her since ‘07.
Nice birthday ride for my 2000 Concours. 23 years old this month with 73k miles and still going strong. Still loving her since ‘07.
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Ordered a Mean streak 17 inch wheel from E-Bay today. Wheel looks great really clean. Got a good price at $130.00 and shipping paid for. Now the fun begins.
Dean
Dean
Get the 17” front too. You won’t regret it
- Swapped oil to Motul 7100 4T 10W40. Best oil I've EVER run in a bike. I will be switching my Vulcan over to the Motul, and won't look back.
- Installed a lightbar with HID lights. Now I have LONG throw lights. SO much better on these dark roads
- Replaced my cluster and clock bulbs with LEDs. Though I may need to swap my main lights again, since the ones I got are super dark (went with UV, but they're not bright enough. But I ordered spares in green, so those should work well.)
- Reinstalled my backrest (had to get it welded since I broke it...)
- Changed my brake pads
'Twas a good day of tinkering!!!
-x01660
How did you break the backrest?
- Swapped oil to Motul 7100 4T 10W40. Best oil I've EVER run in a bike. I will be switching my Vulcan over to the Motul, and won't look back.
- Installed a lightbar with HID lights. Now I have LONG throw lights. SO much better on these dark roads
- Replaced my cluster and clock bulbs with LEDs. Though I may need to swap my main lights again, since the ones I got are super dark (went with UV, but they're not bright enough. But I ordered spares in green, so those should work well.)
- Reinstalled my backrest (had to get it welded since I broke it...)
- Changed my brake pads
'Twas a good day of tinkering!!!
-x01660
c'est de l'aluminium ?
No. Its steel. Just really thin steel on the cantilever arms. The welder put some gussets in the corner, and its SUPER firm now. Went on a ride with my passenger and a load on the back and it worked perfectly.
the frank tear looks like a highly carbon steel, it’s weird, it may be a cast and not mechanically welded
BTW, I've seen (I think it was you) pics of your C10 with the sidecar; BEAUTIFUL bike!
thanks
The bolts that are missing serve another purpose than holding the rack.
They help hold the tail piece on the bike.
Suggest you reinstall and use them to add some sort of a spacer. (to help support your rack/backrest)
A spacer in that area would make it a lot more secure, andddddddd
it would be bad if the wife fell of the back of the bike.
ie; She might be just a ""little bit pizzed.
Ride safe, Ted
They help hold the tail piece on the bike.
Suggest you reinstall and use them to add some sort of a spacer. (to help support your rack/backrest)
A spacer in that area would make it a lot more secure, andddddddd
it would be bad if the wife fell of the back of the bike. ie; She might be just a ""little bit pizzed.
Ride safe, Ted
I knew a guy that came off the back of his friends bike. It wasn't pretty.The bolts that are missing serve another purpose than holding the rack.
They help hold the tail piece on the bike.
Suggest you reinstall and use them to add some sort of a spacer. (to help support your rack/backrest)
A spacer in that area would make it a lot more secure, andddddddd
ie; She might be just a ""little bit pizzed.
Ride safe, Ted
Always happens when you really want to try something out.Well... its a miserable day here....
View attachment 36943
But, I went out, and put my Rifle windshield BACK on the bike, along with a wind deflector. Hoping that will solve my buffetting issues...
Its supposed to rain until Wednesday..... ugh.
-x01660